Author Topic: Throttle body / Starter Valve Synch procedure  (Read 4117 times)

Offline zevk

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Throttle body / Starter Valve Synch procedure
« on: March 24, 2013, 03:14:36 PM »
Well, I finally bit the bullet and purchased a Morgan Carb Pro4 Manonmetor.
 
Had no problems with the procedure. The before and after pix demonstrate the difference!

A few hints to help!
 
Once you have the seats off, tank up, filter, snorkels and air box removed (see my thread regarding stuck air box bolts):

Remove 5 pc, 10 mm bolts that secure the rider seat adjuster and tank-thru bolt completely.
Remove the 10 mm bolt that secures the saftey cable from the front right of the tank.
Now you can secure the tank carefully in a vertical position, (use a soft poly-cord from the front bolt hole of the tank, to the rear grab rail) without the need to disconnect fuel lines and vaccum hoses which can be very tight.
Just dont bend the tank to far back, as it will kink and can damage the gas line.
It is sooo much easier to work with this extra clearance with the tank in an upward position.

I did purchase 3 meters of automotive silicone vaccum tubing and connectors (5 mm i.d.,) in the intent to lengthen and modify the location of the H connector, but I did not find a need to do this.
 
If you unplug the MAP connector there is enough room to get at the hoses. Also placing the extension hoses foward, near the air intake may disrupt / change the air flow slightly.

I used plastic vaccum hose pliers to get the vaccum hoses off (see photo) it helps to lossen the binding with a small blunt tool such as an awl or small screwdriver gently inserted underneath the pipes to break the binding, instead of just yanking them off, risking breakage of the thin delicate H connector.

I performed the procedure whith engine 2 bars temp, at 1500 rpm and again at 2000 rpm.

The #1 cyl reading will "bounce" below 1200 rpm and as note of interest, it is not realistic to get a true balance at every rpm so pick 1500 or 2000 and do your best.

A 7mm socket is required for the adjustment, I used a thumb style 1/4 driver, it fits perfectly even for big hands. (See pic attached)

A much easier way to clear the F1 error when finnished as follows (Big Thank You to Larry Burris, for this tip and assistance!)

side stand down and gear in neutral
1 turn the engine kill switch to RUN
2 turn the ignition switch to ON
3 DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE (if you do, start over)
4 start the engine
5 if you touched the throttle start over
6 let the bike run for aprox 2 min (don't touch anything while its running)
7 turn the kill switch to OFF
8 Turn the key to OFF
9 You have now cleared all the error codes
 
I have not had a test ride yet but all seems pretty smooth at the moment.

hopes this helps!  :13Candy
« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 06:56:40 AM by zevk »
Zev
 

Offline Abe

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Re: Throttle body / Starter Valve Synch procedure
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2013, 03:37:48 PM »
Zev,

Having done my1100 with a "snail" sync, I can as others will note your difficulty in trying to get the 4 carbies as close to perfect as you have done, well done.

Look forward to hearing your first ride report.

Cheers
Dave
At my age " getting lucky" is remembering what I came in the room for ;)

:wht13      Cheers Dave
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Offline zevk

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Re: Throttle body / Starter Valve Synch procedure
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2013, 04:03:15 PM »
Thanks Dave.

This is why "dealer log book stamp" is overrated in my opinion. The dealers put a stamp on the log book pg but mostly, just flush and fill the motor oil.

It is not surprising that Honda do not list this procedure as routine maintainance, so as to keep labour hours and tech skills to the minimum.

Even if this procedure were to be scheduled every 48k, it would be better than not doing it at all.

other routine procedures never carried out by Honda dealers as part of log book incl. fork oil flush and fill, rear suspension flush and fill and other minor but important procedures as the bike gets older. 

Zev
 

Offline zevk

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Re: Throttle body / Starter Valve Synch procedure
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2013, 09:06:57 PM »
Just retuned from 40 min test ride.

The throttle feels more "connected" to the engine if you get my drift.

My bike was smooth before I started the synch with no issues at all but now is a bit smoother (if thats possible)

overall it feels less snatchy...
 
I hope this also helps with fuel consumption which was my main incentive for the effort, but will need to go thru a tank fuel to determine the outcome, if any.
Zev