Author Topic: air filter  (Read 7685 times)

Offline Greencan

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Re: air filter
« Reply #25 on: December 10, 2016, 08:13:51 PM »
Great to hear the air filter clean up worked well :thumb...was never my idea, I got it from a bloke in 1999 on the old Ozstoc yahoo forum, been using it ever since ;-*

OK as for the fasteners to return and what to leave out....leave out the 2 x M4 screws that attach the lower cowl to the top triple clamp and place in a safe place (keep them!).

Return the 4 scrivets that connect the upper and lower cowl sections and return the 2 x M4 (short), screws that connect the upper and lower cowls.

Return the metal piece that's attached to the upper cowl, just in front of the ignition with the self tapping screw...you will have to bend the hose / wiring loom retainer (attached to to triple clamp), up to achieve this, but retain it!

Fabricate an extension to fix to your ignition key so that it reaches the ignition barrel. Alternatively procure an additional upper cowl section and cut out a provision for a key without an extension...I have one here  (I think), if I can find it, I will take a pic and post it.

NOW the bad news
...the wind deflection provided by both mirror covers to your hands is now gone...in cold weather you hands will get colder (now outta the slip stream). In addition, you'll be subjected to greater wind noise if your bum is on a stock seat and the screen is also stock. Heated grips and $1 ears plugs will remedy both :thumbs.

Now as I have twin teenage girls (not mine), and Wife at home, I'm off for a bourbon or 3 and sit down outside...Ooo Roo
 

Offline mikep

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Re: air filter
« Reply #26 on: December 10, 2016, 08:49:58 PM »
 :beer Ah, 3 girls in the house - you're well and truly outnumbered, outside with a bourbon is the best place to be.
thanks for the help,
mike
1997 green ST1100 ABS
previously owned;
Honda CBX1000
BSA 650 Lightning
 

Offline Bikebear

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Re: air filter
« Reply #27 on: December 11, 2016, 06:49:01 PM »
I didn't bother to put the plastic back on around the bars when I installed the risers on my bike. I found a nice shiney cap to put over the top nut on the triple tree and slipped a modified film canister (remember those) over the ignition switch. I also cleaned the top triple tree up with a bit of a polish and it looks pretty good. If I ever sell it (very unlikely at the moment) it can all be put back to standard quite easily.
Craig..
STOC #8215
UC #42145
SCA#2478

Gold '99 ST1100A (Golden Brown), Black '04 VT750, Red '15 1800 Valkyrie (Hildr), Black '08 DN01



"Golden Brown finer temptress, Never a frown with Golden Brown"
 
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Offline mikep

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Re: air filter
« Reply #28 on: December 14, 2016, 10:57:01 AM »
 :thumbsup Hi, after putting the plastic back i also decided it looked better with it off.  I also found that an end-cap for a 25mm pvc waterpipe was a nice press fit over the top nut. I painted it silver too. Not yet done the 35mm film canister bit, but i think a pvc tube joiner will be a nice fit too.  Have to look into it and see which is best, but even without a surround round the ignition barrel it looks OK. Did you do a 35mm riser?  I'm still just a tiny bit concerned about the brake line tightness.
1997 green ST1100 ABS
previously owned;
Honda CBX1000
BSA 650 Lightning
 

Offline Bikebear

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Re: air filter
« Reply #29 on: December 14, 2016, 07:12:19 PM »
I think my risers were 25mm. If Irecall I had to slightly reroute the  brake line but there wasn't any major dramas.
Craig..
STOC #8215
UC #42145
SCA#2478

Gold '99 ST1100A (Golden Brown), Black '04 VT750, Red '15 1800 Valkyrie (Hildr), Black '08 DN01



"Golden Brown finer temptress, Never a frown with Golden Brown"
 

Offline Greencan

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Re: air filter
« Reply #30 on: December 17, 2016, 10:12:46 PM »
Evenin’ Mike et al…

Mike... that banjo is the wrong way round!!! It appears you have disconnected the hose from the master cylinder and returned the wrong way round. Look at the angle on your clutch.

I only saw your pic of the dowel after I posted a return to your thread and no, that wasn’t the dowel I was referring to. Oh! Praps best to use a ring spanner hey ;-)



I think returning the handle bar covers looks neater.

What you have pointed to in your pic (and can also be clearly seen in this pic, albeit, the clutch), is the shoulder the enables the brake (clutch), line banjo unions to be secured and removed. You definitely don’t want to remove these!

I found the cover I modified many years ago and fitted it to the bike I presently have in my shed which is fitted with the police spec handle bar risers (15mm), but the fitting of any riser on the later ABS variant 1100 is the same.



This is the very first riser adaptation I made to an ABS 1100. I modelled it on a Honda OEM police rise, which has the lower (integral), saddle casting extended 15mm, I simply turned and extension and spacer to 35mm which I got from shoring  up the handle bars with pieces of wood until I felt comfortable on the new Corbin dual canyon saddle I’d fitted at that time. I posted it on a web page I had at the time and a chap from the States contacted me a little later, was pure coincidence (arse), which after re-routing the brake line I found that 35mm was pretty much the limit of rise for this 1100 variant without lengthening the hose. Subsequent risers I made I used a bearing quality plastic for the spacer instead of this ridiculously heavy bright mild steel version. I now find that the police spec riser is ample with the Corbin. So these mule risers are no longer used.



This is that cut out top cover I made to accommodate the 35mm raised handle bars insitu. Though in the (35mm case), the top of the ignition barrel was 20mm lower than as in this pic and the standard key worked fine. Really don’t need any modification to the top cover or key extension with the police spec riser, all Honda did was remove the soft plastic surround that snuggly fits the top of the barrel. So, remove that and the ABS variant key will reach and work. Will stand corrected, but I seem to remember police spec 1100’s have a longer reach key(?).



One of the two screws that obviously cannot be returned.



This is where I re-routed my hose. I thought perhaps that the turning the handle bars would cause the hose to chafe / rub / cut on the sharp edge of the dash underside, but it hasn’t after 16 years on this bike.

So, hope these few pics help. The only visible difference when utilising the 35mm risers, to can see each of the stanchion caps with the covers insitu.

Cheers, the can :-)...N Avamerrychristmas  :beer
« Last Edit: December 17, 2016, 10:19:52 PM by Greencan »
 
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Offline mikep

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Re: air filter
« Reply #31 on: January 11, 2017, 12:41:06 AM »
Hi 'Can, sorry to take so long to reply - not being rude, just did not get a notification of reply until today!! Maybe my spam filter kicked in when it shouldnt have.  Hope you had a great Christmas and New year. 
Thanks for the effort, with the pictures and advice and all.  Yep, that banjo was wrong and is now correct. :-[  I see what you've done with the plastic, and that would probably work for me too, but with the 35mm riser the key was a long way down the hole and i didn't feel like adding an extension to the key, although that was a possibility too. At present the plastic remains off, i'll attach a pic showing the finish - a bit 'bare' but i don't mind it. With the nut covered and the shroud round the lock barrel it's not too bad - would look better with a bit of a polish of the other brightwork there. (maybe get my new christmas pressie Dremel to work   ;-* )
I'll be keeping an eye on the chafing situation at the brake hose, but fingers crossed it won't be an issue.  :thumb
1997 green ST1100 ABS
previously owned;
Honda CBX1000
BSA 650 Lightning
 

Offline Greencan

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Re: air filter
« Reply #32 on: January 11, 2017, 09:23:21 AM »
Mornin' Mike et al... :thumb

If, you do decide to return the original plastic and don't want to ruin it by taking a dremel to it and them plastic welding other bits to it as I did. Might I suggest you go to a specialised locksmith and get a new key cut and then extend the section you grasp between thumb n fore finger, rather than trying this on an OEM plastic covered key. The replacement key you will get is cut from plain blank that wont have the added plastic grip, so it'll be much easier to both extend and manipulate through the hole in the top cover.

If you opt for this, get the 3 digit number from any of the barrels that the OEM key opens on the bike (easiest is on the fuel cap), and give that to the locksmith, he'll be able to cut you a replacement key wothout the original, as the plastic grip can be difficult to hold and trace.

Cheers, the can :-)

 
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