OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Honda ST1300 General Questions => Topic started by: Dennisgw on August 20, 2012, 08:22:57 PM
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Hi All,
I have a long term problem with my ST1300 with the PGMI light coming on continuously once the bike gets hot. I might ride 50-100 kms before the light comes on first. After stopping it might come on again after a few kilometres. There is no apparent adverse affect on the performance of the bike.
The fault has been diagnosed as the RH knock sensor and research on the web has indicated that this is a known fault with the ST1300 and is seemingly more of a problem with the wiring to the knock sensor rather than the sensor itself. The cause is heat from the RH exhaust burning the wiring, hence the problem surfacing whenever the bike is hot.
Has anyone else experienced this problem and is there a reliable fix for the problem.
I have to admit to being a little tardy in getting this fixed myself, partly because my bike has been reluctant to leave the shed these days.
Before I get down and dirty to pull the fairing off and all else, I wanted to get any info I can on the experience of others, if any, with this problem.
BTW, it is a 2004 model.
Cheers
Dennis
:13Candy
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Does the discussion on the other Forum mention heat-shielding the wire? Or moving it away from the exhaust? That would logically seem to be the first step towards solving the problem.
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You're right, something along those lines would seem like a logical solution and No, I haven't seen another solution.
I haven't been too fussed about though I should look at it soon. I was hoping someone local may have experienced the problem as the other info was all from O/S.
Dare I say it but a sheet of asbestos material would be nice!!!
:candystwheelie
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:think1 Hmm Hey Malcom dont we have 04s as well
How many kms just incase i am to see the same ?
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Not many.
Low 20's. The bike still only has about 28,000 on it. :( still less than 30 anyway.
Now I sit back and await the responses to the low mileage .......... :well
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I've had no problems really. I did have the F1 come up not so long ago. Turned the bike off and restarted. Light stayed off.
I'm interested to hear that the knock sensor is a "common" fault.
When I've had the plastic off, I haven't paid any attention to the exhaust or wiring to the sensors.
Your best bet would be to take the plastics off, it's not hard. Might be a plug not connected properly.
:blu13
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I got 54 on mine got it with 34 had no problems
Knock knock
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Coming up two years in September, wife won't let me forget. :rofl
25K then, just over 45K now.
Get the fairing cheat sheets and a table to put the plastics onto Dennis. With a table the plastics don't get scratched.
There is a workshop manual available in the 1300 section.
:blu13
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Guess I will have to get myself organised, stop procrastinating and pull the covers off.
Here is a link to another's experience and a preventive solution for those interested.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?87683-Knock-Sensor-Wire (http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?87683-Knock-Sensor-Wire)
Like one of the guys who responded to the above post, mine started on a very hot day during a ride from Glen Innes, through Grafton to Brisbane. The first show of the light was mid way between Grafton and Casino.
:13Candy
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Thanks for the heads up. Next time the tupperware is off I'll make a point to check these wires.
:blu13
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I got 54 on mine got it with 34 had no problems
Knock knock
Who's there?
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Hi Dennis!, you will be happy to know i have the same problem. while riding my 03 1300 up here to the gold coast from Lismore, about halfway home sitting on about 120ks i noticed the malfunction light on!, nothing changed with performance all was normal. Arrived home shut the bike down , started it again later and no light! didn`t have anymore problems until halfway home from the Dugandan gig when it came on again. So last saterday i rode up to Nerang Honda,where a very helpful mechanic traced it to the same sensor !!. He told me they never have any probs with the actual sensors it`s always the wires ( harnis ) leading to the sensor!. NOW! to save me $$$ he told me to take the bottom fairing off and have a look at the sensor he said it will most likely be heat affected try to cover the sensor with some heat reflective tape or whatever, this may fix the problem. If not $170 .00 for a new wiring harnis & about 4 hours labour to fix it!, totaling over $600.00. The good news is if you don`t do anything the light will still come on but it`s not causing any dramas, but at some stage it needs to be addressed!!. If there is any faults with the ST 1300 is the fact that the sensor is to close to the hedder pipe wich will get bloody hot!!............Ok raved on enough let me know how you progress with this!!..........Pete :slvr13
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Hey Pete,
Thanks Muchly. Confirms what I thought.
I will have a go at fixing it somehow next week so I can test it on the ride to Inverell. I am not to sure what to expect when I pull the covers off. When I do, I will take a few before and after snapshots and post them on here. Being an aged mechanic who hasn't been on tools for a long time it could be a bit of a challenge ... :grin.
The best I could get from the local dealership here was confirmation that it was the knock sensor and a bit of a grilling about what fuel I used and the possibility of labouring it too much, which I have to admit I have done at times.
Cheers
Dennis
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Dennis, I think you will find that some on here use normal 91 in their ST13s with no issues. If you are using 95 or better fuel I can't see that labouring the motor would matter at all, as the bike is specified to use that fuel after all.
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Hi Saaz,
I have religously used premium fuel in it since day dot. I have never had any sense of detonation, pinging etc. so I wasn't overly concerned when they quizzed me on what fuel I was using. That said, the bike is a lot more responsive and pleasurable to ride when I do use the lower gears. I got to enjoy the flexibility of the Blackbird so whenever I got on the ST it was a bit of a different ballgame and with Terri on the back I was tending to be a little less aggressive :)
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Dennis, I think you will find that some on here use normal 91 in their ST13s with no issues. If you are using 95 or better fuel I can't see that labouring the motor would matter at all, as the bike is specified to use that fuel after all.
I'm one of the culprits. I use 91 RON Unleaded in my ST1300. I've done extensive spreadsheet data runs on Premium, Unleaded and Additives and can find no significant difference taking into account city versus country riding.
I've also previously stated that I can accelerate from 60 kph in top gear without lugging or pinging. Adding a pillion means I'm far more likely to drop back a gear, especially if she hasn't missed a lot of meals.
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Knock knock!.....it`s me again!, well the saga continues! , went around to the brother in laws 2 weeks ago to try to fix the knock sensor problem ( he`s a pretty handy bike fixer guy ) . The idea was to remove all the loose & melted wire covering then place heat shrink over the wire then wrap it all in heat resistant tape, wich we managed to acheave :|||| ( not a lot of room to work with the side pannels still on!) . So the end result is the F1 light still comes on :|||| but only after sustained 120k riding, & nothing changes performance wise, so i went back to Nerang honda & spoke to 2 mechanics who said don`t worry to much about it as it won`t cause any damage to the bike!. What they did say was to always use premium fuel as these are high teck motors and are designed to use it, and this may also help fix the problem!. So! Dennis how did you get on with your same problem, did you get a result??..............cheers!.............Pete.
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Hi Pete,
I did have a play with the bike to the extent of removing the tupperware and making a heat shield from light aluminium sheet to fit between the exhaust and the knock sensor and its wiring. I didn't get the result I wanted though I did change the behaviour of it somewhat. It now seems to come on quicker and easier >:( . I am wondering if the shield I fitted, being aluminium, might be increasing the heat effect on the sensor and wiring.
When I had the problem diagnosed as the RH knock sensor many moons ago I was also warned about always using Premium fuel etc, which I have always done and we talked a bit about my ridng style as I was a touch guilty of labouring the engine a bit, so I now tend to ride in a gear lower than I used to prior to that. Bear in mind that I was also used to riding a Blackbird as well which took off like a scolded cat whenever the throttle was opened.
I have thoughts now of swapping the two sensors from side to side in an effort to confirm if it is the wiring or the sensor itself. Honda had the foresight to use the same sensor on each side. The logic being that I could have the system tested again and see if the fault moves to the LH side. I just haven't gotten around to making time to do that as yet (At this time I am a little more interested in a tyre problem which I think Biggles gave me the answer to this morning). At one stage I was prepared to buy a new sensor until I learned that they are $270.00 each and there weren't any in the country anyway, so that put paid to that idea. Delivery lead time was about 2 weeks.
I have another project on at the moment that I am keen to finish and then I will take time to get back to this issue. Please keep in touch so we can compare notes and hopefully come up with the right solution.
Cheers for now.
Dennis
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I run my 13 on Ron 91 no pinging or performance problem. Mine has only got 14k on it though. When I bought it the Honda del told me it wouldn't make any difference if I used the 91. He said to stay away from ethanol bend :blk13
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Hey Dennis!, i`m thinking your right an aluminium cover would just make it worse, i would remove it asap. Mabe try my trick & cover the wire in heat shrink then cover it with some heat resistant tape or similar, as the mechanic said he`s never seen a sensor give trouble it`s always the wire leading to the sensor!. At the moment i see 2 alternatives pay the bike shop $600 to fix it, $170 for the wiring harnes & the rest is labour!, or the cheap way out , take the bulb out ! NO MORE F1 LIGHT!!.....cured!.....Pete!!
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I did a bit of a search on the issue, and it seems that either 'some do it' which does not help, or the wire and plug into the sensors need to be carefully checked and possibly replaced as even if they look ok the connection is not right. Don't assume that because the wire looks ok that it is as some have reported that the heat degrades the wire. An I read of a case where the plug itself onto the sensor was brittle and not 100%.
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Knock Knock again!, while i was waiting for my new tyres to be fitted @ Team Moto Honda Nerang the outher day, i noticed onother st 13 out the back of the work shop & fellow simler age to me sitting reading a bike mag. So puting 2&2 together i asked if he owned the st & yes he did so we started chating and funny thing his st was suffering the same knock sensor problems as mine , they replaced the right hand knock sensor but the light was still coming on!. He bought it back in for the mechanics to work out what was happening :|||| I don`t know the end result but am keen to find out!, but anyway i gave him one of our cards and he was very impressed! as he always looked on the USA site!, So we may have another member! Barry stevens is his name , rids a noce looking red 04 st1300 !!, so if your reading this barry hurry up and be one of the crew!! :thumbsup.............Pete
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Hi Peter,
It is good to know that it is just not me anymore!
I am in the process of shedding a few motor vehicles so maybe in the new year I might get more time to work on this and see what we can come up with.
If you know anyone who would like a good Ford FG XR6 Turbo, 2010/11 model tell them to give me a call. It is going cheap and quick.
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Hi dennis! i sure will, one of our 21 year old twin boys just bought a 2011 xr6 turbo ute! with all the gear, traded his ss comodore ute!. He said this thing really halls arse it`s a beautiful vehicle to drive but not practicle for me!........Pete!
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hi guys. theres never a problem with the knock sensor itself, we have never sold one here and prob never will,
every prob we have had so far is the wire loom the comes from under the tank/airbox and gos to both the knock sensors always melt with heat, now they are a shielded wire and will 9 out of 10 times need replacing. i have heard of a few guys trying to fit new plugs etc and had no luck... i am one of them guys.
i have 2 st1300s with the problem here now, and i have one that is still throwing the sensor light on, i have replaced the loom as it was melted badly and also found a melted plug under the throttle body going to a injector, so i fixed that to.
but... the code still comes up, theres a way to see if yours still have a fault but placing it on the centre stand and holding the revs at 4,500rpm for 5/6 seconds. then a drop in the ecm map will bring on the light untill you reset the fi, ie turning off the key.
i have had many of these cases and have always fixed the problem. but this one has passed all the tests and checks and now the only thing it can be is the ecm has been spiked but the sensor wire.
note, as pete said, the bike will run fine and will not cause damage it will need looking at soon. if i can help please ask. on anything you may need.
and ps. thanks pete for the nice remark towards me.
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Interesting information. I suspect that the ECU could be damaged in some cases. Are there any upgarded sensor wires or extra shielding that might help it survive?
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No John.
Only the loom from Honda. All I do. Is wrap the new loom in a exhaust sticky back foil. And move where it roots. Also I no off guys putting the race exhaust tape on the down pipes that's going to help keep the heat down.
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My 2004 ST1300 has a problem with the FI warning light coming on and indicating a knock sensor fault. Sensors tested ok & new wiring harness installed by Honda. It now seems the ECU/ECM could be at fault.
Does anyone have access to a spare ECU/ECM that could be used by the workshop as a comparison to determine whether or not my own ECU/ECM is faulty? Alternatively if you're taking your ST1300 in for service at Nerang and would be prepared to let the shop check my unit against yours please let me know.
The shop doesn't have an ECU in stock and if one is brought in especially and doesn't cure the problem then the shop is left with an expensive item on hand. Whilst the occasional ECU is available on eBay there is again the risk that big $ are spent and the replacement might not eliminate the problem. It would be great to know for sure my ECU/ECM is at fault before commiting to the expense of purchasing a replacement.
If you can help please send a message or reply to this post. You could also email me at caznbaz1@bigpond.com or phone (07)5524 8852
Cheers
Baz48
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I'm beginning to think that this is more a problem of design than implementation. What I mean by that is that Honda, in their infinite wisdom, got it wrong, and did a crappy piece if design on this particular bit of an otherwise perfect machine.
So, can the 'knock sensors' be by-passed, or maybe simply removing the globe from the 'red light' would do the trick, after all everyone seems to be saying that there really isn't a fault there other than faulty indication. By removing the indication the problem would appear to be resolved.
I know that this isn't the right way to fault-find a problem, but if all other actions show that there really isn't anything wrong, and Honda can't come up with a solution, then maybe we simply ignore the problem all together.
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The way these electrickery things work, the ECU would probably protest if the knock sensors were removed.
And you can't just pull the FI globe, because it obviously needs to warn of any other fault that pops up.
The ECU swap out is the best solution. Is there a delaer with a workshop and an ST13 in the sales lot?
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The fi light is a led anyway so can't just take it out. Plus when the ecu picks up its knocking or the fault thinking its knocking then it remaps itself to stop engine damage. You can feel and hear it when this happens.
9times out of 10. Replacing the wire Lomb fixes this problem and can be good to do as in some cases the no3 injector connector melts as well but will only see that once the airbox is off.
I'm a head tech at a local Honda dealer and I'm trying to source out a ECM to try. It has to be a 04 model as the later ones are different. Plus will need a key due to the hiss.im sure its what this problem is. But there is a chance. I had had problems with st1300s with the bank of wires that all go into a yellow connector. And the bank of earths under the top fairing. But in this case they check out ok. But can be a worlds smallest break in the Lomb somewhere else. Again common on the left hand side where the wires route between the frame and tank.
Saying this. If anyone has any probs/work you need help with. Just pm me ill be happy to help.
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OK, just a thought...obviously not a very clever one, but actually meant rather more tongue-in-cheek than dead-pan serious! :whistle
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Finally my knock sensor problem appears to be at an end and I can use my bike again. As you can read in my earlier post, neither replacing the sub harness ((a necessary replacement in my case) or knock sensor prevented the FI light from coming on at around 4000 rpm and the Honda tech was convinced the ECU might be at fault. No units were available for substitution to confirm the diagnosis so I trolled eBay and found a used ECU complete with ignition key, ignition barrel, fuel filler cap, and locks for the panniers and left storage pocket was available in Italy. After some negotiation I bought the unit for $400 which was a good price when compared with the $1500 or so needed to buy a new one locally. The new unit was fitted and the chip from the Italian ignition key was placed in my "old" key so it would work as per usual. My spare key wouldn't accept reprogramming so a new blank was purchased for $40 and programmed to suit the new ECU.
It was also suggested that I wrap the exhaust headers on both sides with a heat reducing wrap. I bought a 50 foot roll from Autobahn ($59) which was sufficient to wrap all 4 headers (I cut the roll into 4 equal lengths first) from the top, almost to the bottom. Although the entire header isn't wrapped it more than covers the critical areas near the knock sensor and sub harness. The fibreglass wrap certainly does its job well as it's now possible to carefully touch the wrapped and & (very) hot header pipe without burning your finger.
In between the incessant rain showers of late I've managed a few road tests in the critical rev range and so far the FI light has, thankfully, never come on - long may that be the case.
It seems many bikes with the knock sensor issue can be fixed by replacing the sub harness or at least replacing the burnt out wire itself, but obviously there are some bikes where replacing the ECU is the only fix.
So to those of you who also have this annoying fault, it's certainly able to be fixed but you must be prepared to work through a process of elimination to find the fault and effect a cure.
Thanks a lot to Chris and Julian at Team Moto Honda, Nerang for the many hours spent in sorting the issue for me.
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Good write-up, and good find of the necessary replacement at an achievable price. Just a pity it proved so hard to diagnose.
Cheers for the dealer who worked at it. I keep an eye on Nerang Honda because they seem to have a lot of 'Wings.
Not that I'd ever buy one. :whistle
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You are very welcome baz.
Glad I got to the bottom of it. There not much I can't fix when it come to these. See you next service. And thanks for the nice write up. :beer
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Awesome news Baz :runyay
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:rd13
Hi chaps,
I weighed into this discussion some time ago and it seems to be an ongoing problem BUT I have noticed that my ST 1300, a 2003 model , NO ABS or Electric Windscreen with over 160,000 klms has never had this problem and my mates with ABS models have. Could the unsolved problem only be with abs models with their more complicated electronics ?????? have any NON ABS bikes had this problem?????
luv and kisses
Rally
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You might be onto something, Rally, but AFAIK the ABS is completely separate from the ECU system. More complex as a whole, but not integrated. It's still possible there is a different ECU in the ABS bikes.
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The techincal name for knock sensors - Ears :rofl :rofl :rofl :crackup
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It would be far easier if Honda allowed access to the ECU by some sort of diagnostic/tuning software. Triumph does this, and tunes and other parameters can be updated/upgraded over time, even if only official OEM chnages.
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Hi I have the same problem might do a trip to nerang team moto was there on Saturday brought new tyres top tyres to set of angels
Bugger garyr
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Good luck with sorting your knock sensor problem. Hope yours in an easier and less time consuming process than mine turned out to be. Keep us informed with the diagnosis and eventual result.
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:slvr13 Same right knock sensor issue here. I have an '03 ST1300 Non-ABS but it DOES have an electric windshield (The original owner, a Honda Exec, had it installed...more money than brains I suspect). The problem just started for me at 49,000 miles (78,857 km). F1 light comes on at 4,400 RPM's without exception, hot days or cold. I live in Seattle so most days are "cold" 75 degrees F down to 45 degrees F (24C down to 7C).
Took off all the Tupperware and replaced (spliced in new) the wire leading to the knock sensor. The previous wire did look as though it had endured a lot of heat. Wrapped the new wire in tinfoil, then wrapped it in heat resistant tape. Made certain it stood off from the header as well, although it never seemed to be touching.
Now, oddly, it won't come on as regularly at 4,400 RPM's, but it still comes on. There seems little rhyme or reason as to when it comes on. Sometimes I can ride all day and it won't come on, even when it's hot outside. I'm convinced outside temp has little to nothing to do with it, as I've ridden 1,000 miles (1,609 km) in various temps. I'm inclined to think I didn't replace enough of the wire OR the connector that plugs onto the sensor. It was cracked but I checked the fitting (looked OK) and placed Anti Corrosive Zinc Paste on the connector (BTW, I put the paste on ALL connections when I have them apart...have learned it saves me MUCH future troubles).
I'm rather OCD about everything running and looking right on the bike, but I'm not about to purchase a new ECM just to make the F1 light go away (I'd rather spend my money on other stupid farkles for my bike). I've read enough about this F1 issue to believe it's no issue at all, mechanically speaking. My only concern is, what if there's another NEW issue and the F1 light is still indicating 26 blips from the knock sensor and I don't see another F1 trouble indicator because of it? Will it blink another code as well, thus indicating TWO independent issues? I don't know...
I'm going to open her back up and replace more of the wire and attempt to replace the connector as well. Like I said, it seems as though that partially fixed the problem, but not every time I ride. I will post here again with whatever results I get.
Ride Safely!!
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Hey buddy.
Welcome to the land of the st fi light. I have left the Honda main dealer now and doing stuff from home. To save guys some money. (Nice plug hey. Haha. )
Unfortunately you can't just snip and splice in a new wire onto the loomb. It's a wire that has a shielding and a core. Like 3 wires in one.
So that could be the only problem that's bring the light on. As I said before. It's one of the most problems they suffer. Best to get the light fixed as I did say in a post I'm sure the ecu go's into a kind of limp mode to stop the engine detonating. Is this the cause of bazs ecu going wrong. ? Who knows but it won't do it or the bike any good by choosing not to fix the problem.
As for the connector that's common. They crack under heat and go brittle. That's why every time I put in a new loomb I always stick the foil around it and use race pipe heat wrap.
So bottom line is. Get a new knock sensor loomb and wrap the pipes. Only way to fix it I'm sorry to say. I've done so many of these but only had the one ecu problem. Make sure it stays that way. :thumbs
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Honda Tech,
Thanks for the info! To your point, "...it won't do it or the bike any good by choosing not to fix the problem", I completely agree. But I from what I had read here, it didn't appear to be a "major" issue, and certainly not one that warranted buying an ECU just to make a light go away. With that said, I also understand that the light is on for a reason...something IS wrong and should be addressed. I have too much on my plate to take the bike down to a point where I can replace that loom, but based upon your recommendation, I eventually will.
Interesting though how some guys report that replacing the wire (Splicing in a new one) does seem to fix the issue. I'm fairly mechanically savvy, and didn't notice that the wire had, "...a shielding and a core. Like 3 wires in one". Had I noticed this, I would have stopped my masterful splicing (If I may say so myself) and looked into an actual correct wire replacement (I guess it takes the whole loom).
Again, thanks for your help. I'm off to buy a loom and enough beer for such a project :-)
Tlindy
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Has anyone got a spare loom with a plug like this floating about? Honda wants about $150 for a new loom but I just need the connector.
Over on another site I read you can get this one, which fits but they won't send to Australia :'(
http://www.partsgeek.com/x8hs216-honda-pilot-knock-sensor-harness.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=wcs&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Honda+Knock+Sensor+Harness (http://www.partsgeek.com/x8hs216-honda-pilot-knock-sensor-harness.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=wcs&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Honda+Knock+Sensor+Harness)
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Have you tried two wheel wreckers? Or Maddington Motorcycle Wreckers? Or Motorcycle Masters? Or Brock (just kidding).
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What about getting them to send to an "on forwarding" shipping company? A customer often does this when he needs stuff they won't send over seas.
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Thanks Pezzz some good suggestions there, tried one of those wreckers already without luck I'll try the others tomorrow.
Hmmm interesting I'll look into that one also failing the other wreckers!
Wouldn't surprise me Brock has one floating about tho.... lol
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I dont have the connectors, try looking on the eastern beaver web site, they have all sorts of plugs.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html)
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Shite . . . Don't get an old Fart soo excited . . . Choose the Subject descriptions carefully . . . WOW:
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Shite . . . Don't get an old Fart soo excited . . . Choose the Subject descriptions carefully . . . WOW:
You need to see an eye doctor, The subject is Knock Sensors, not Knocker Censors
:|||| :|||| :||||
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Thanks Brock..... but still no joy trying to find a connector... Even tried buying from partsgeek using a US postage redirection service, then partsgeek complained saying my credit card isn't associated with a US address. Not sure how that is linked up.... but anyway... might have to order a complete loom, oh well.
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Dave, I will chat with my customer who has a sister there and see if she can but and send on and we fix him up. How much roughly?
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Awesome thanks Pezzz, I'll PM you the details... It's only $16 incl postage.
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Cool.
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Hi All
Thought this might be of interest to someone.
The dreaded Knock Sensor raised its ugly head last month. I had it to Pro Honda in Brisbane, where a new knock sensor was fitted.
On the way to Inverell last week end the red light decided to activate again.
So I searched around and located Chris ( Honda tech) and booked the bike in with him.
Pro Honda rang today to say they have ordered the loom/harness and will fit same for no cost to me.
So I explained that to Chris and he said if I have any trouble after they fi the harness, he will gladly look at the bike.
For everyone's info Chris works on all types of bikes.
He is located at Helensvale Qld and his Mobile is 0413 171 676
Do hope this may help someone.
Cheers
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thanks for that, been looking for a good mech
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Is this a common issue on the 1300?
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Trevor
That's why I have not taken you up on that offer of a cup of tea! Took four weeks to get the knock sensor from Japan.
And as Honda Oz has no knock sensor harnesses in stock another 2 to 4 weeks wait for that part.
Glad I am not bailed up in outer Mongolia :rockon
To answer your question Allan there have been enough cases of this problem for a couple of people ( read employees of Honda dealers) to tell me they wonder why Honda never did a recall on the bikes.
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Very common problem unfortunately. Can be fixed though. I've been a Honda Tec for 16/17 years so any questions shoot me a message or call 0413171676
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Mine is an '02 model, and I've never had a problem with knocking or faulty sensors or FI light coming on... Sometime engine knock can (and probably the most commonly) be caused by lower octane fuel. The only fuel I have ever used in any of my bikes ( and even my lawn mowers ) is 98 octane, nothing else.... I also get much better fuel economy using 98... 570 per tank.... I wouldn't use anything else unless absolutely forced to... And I only fill up at a BP... You might call me pedantic, but I've never had any issues with knocking...
The Octane rating in fuel is also sometimes known as the AKI or Anti-knock Index. Other causes of knocking could be excessive carbon deposits around the combustion chamber, and also using plugs with the wrong heat range. Using a 9 instead of an 8 could help alleviate knock symptoms, as it helps draw heat away from the combustion chamber, with a slightly shallower well...
Just some thoughts...