LED H4 hi/lo bulbs

[saaz]

I am trying out these http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-bright-3200lm-h4-led-headlight-hi-lo-beam-car-led-h4-Headlamp-Bulb-35w-12V/32221003713.html after some positive feedback on them by Trophy owners in the US.

Compared to other variations, they are as easy to install as normal H4 bulbs, due to the fan assembly screwing on after fitting the bulb. The rubber boots can also be used

I have some fitted to the Trophy, and put some in Lionel's FJR1300 the other day. In both cases the lights are much brighter than H4s (I was running plus 90 H4s), beam pattern seems to be the same as the H4s (so low beam has a good cutoff), lo and hi LEDs stay on when on hi beam. The LEDs are CREE ones, so not a no name knock off.  Beam colour is the same as the Erica and Jaycar driving lights, so around the 5K to 6K mark, and no more little yellow lights when the driving lights can't be used.  If you can fit H4 bulbs, you can easily fit these.

On road performance yet to be properly tested, and hopefully life will be way more than high powered H4s.

Stay tuned.

[ST2UP]

Nice one John 


Had a yarn with Skidooo about CREE LED today with the view to replace H4 Hi/Lo with H7 Low only and an adaptor bezel 

[saaz]

That's another way to go. Should be an interesting project.

Nice one John 


Had a yarn with Skidooo about CREE LED today with the view to replace H4 Hi/Lo with H7 Low only and an adaptor bezel 

[tj189]

Will be interesting  to see the results, thanks for keeping us informed 

[StinkyPete]

Will be interesting  to see the results, thanks for keeping us informed 

Yes, it looks like decent LED headlight globes are pretty well upon us.   

[Sicman]

After the rally ST2UP lent me his shed while I upgraded my OEM bulbs to H4 intense 110 bulbs and new side bulbs. Much better now and more easily seen during the day with a better low beam light at night, removing those streaks across the road 

[ST2UP]

Your very welcome anytime mate 

[saaz]

I had tried the +90 bulbs, and they do put out more light. Downside for me was they only lasted about 10,000kms if that, whereas the OEM bulbs lasted 55,000kms. It may have been because they were Repco brand, as the narva +50s I have in the ST1100 have lasted better.

Those Streaks have been removed for the time being..wonder if they will reappear....

After the rally ST2UP lent me his shed while I upgraded my OEM bulbs to H4 intense 110 bulbs and new side bulbs. Much better now and more easily seen during the day with a better low beam light at night, removing those streaks across the road 

[Skip]

This doesn't seem like a straight 'plug in' job to me Saaz. I have had a head light go out, first one in the life of the bike. Does the H4 plug straight into the standard 1300 head light or are modifications required?  How much 'tupperware' needs to be removed to replace a bulb?

[Gadget]

Is there a version suitable for the ST1300?

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[saaz]

For the ST1300 you would need to do the same as putting in a standard H4 bulb, no harder. Here is a guide  http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=3537.0   At a guess it was your left bulb that went first? Seems the most common.

The normal H4s are the P43t base, the Honda uses the PX43t 65-degree one, where the tabs are more evenly spaced, so you would have to modify the LED base the same as a normal H4 to get it to fit. The wiring of the LED plugs straight into the connector to the back of the headlight bulb.

[saaz]

I have not found one that comes with a PX43t base that Honda uses. So the normal modification that you have to perform on normal H4s would need to be done (remove two tabs and put in and use the adaptor ring)

Is there a version suitable for the ST1300?

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[Biggles]

I have not found one that comes with a PX43t base that Honda uses. So the normal modification that you have to perform on normal H4s would need to be done (remove two tabs and put in and use the adaptor ring)

I just remove one tab- the bottom one.  I bought the Hungarian adapter rings and found them too thick to get the spring clip in, so just go bare on the flange.  Seems to work.  Others have done it, so I'm not a pioneer in that.

[saaz]

I used to do that as well. The bulb seems to locate in the headlight more on the front part than the part with the tabs. When I modified the ST1100 headlight to take normal H4s I found that the bulb located itself regardless of the tabs, they just stopped the bulb rotating.

I have not found one that comes with a PX43t base that Honda uses. So the normal modification that you have to perform on normal H4s would need to be done (remove two tabs and put in and use the adaptor ring)

I just remove one tab- the bottom one.  I bought the Hungarian adapter rings and found them too thick to get the spring clip in, so just go bare on the flange.  Seems to work.  Others have done it, so I'm not a pioneer in that.

[alans1100]

I just remove one tab- the bottom one.  I bought the Hungarian adapter rings and found them too thick to get the spring clip in, so just go bare on the flange.  Seems to work.  Others have done it, so I'm not a pioneer in that.

I have the same adapter rings and bend the lower two tabs to a 90 degree angle. The globe sit flat on the ring and the clip goes in with with out a drama.....The adapter ring goes in front of the globe when it's in the housing

[Grumpy]

Mine takes the H4's without an adaptor. Seems they may have started with H4 and then changed it later.

Cheers
Grumpy 

[Gadget]

I currently have Nava +90s and have bent the tabs, but these look like the tabs are cast aluminum. Do the Heat Sinks screw on? And do they have a ballast?

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[ST2UP]

This doesn't seem like a straight 'plug in' job to me Saaz. I have had a head light go out, first one in the life of the bike. Does the H4 plug straight into the standard 1300 head light or are modifications required?  How much 'tupperware' needs to be removed to replace a bulb?

H4 question already answered above 


I just trim bottom 2 tags and don't use rings......if trimming use snips and don't be tempted to reach for your Dremel......will kill the globe 


As far as plastic to remove NONE  Centre stand, reach in from underneath and twist bars to create the most room......plug off, rubber off, bulb holder clip released. Bulb out and new on in 

Seriously a 5 minute exercise 

[Biggles]

Seriously a 5 minute exercise 

If you hold your mouth right to get the plug off, get your hammy fist in to the cavity with the new bulb and then get the spring clip to engage.  I actually made a metal rod with a nick in the end to be able to see what I was doing and apply enough force without puncturing a finger-tip.

But yeah, a 5 minute job.     

[saaz]

The tabs are cast, so would have to be dremelled off.  The bulb part is put in exactly the same as a H4 and just as easy. The rubber boot is then put back on. The heatsink with fan then screws on. There is a very small igniter/ballast (about the size of a lithium battery in a phone) that is easily located somewhere - I put some velcro on it and stuck it out of the way.

I currently have Nava +90s and have bent the tabs, but these look like the tabs are cast aluminum. Do the Heat Sinks screw on? And do they have a ballast?

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[Gadget]

Thanks for answering the question John.
That clears up a lot.

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[LindsayGT]

Have any of you looked at these LED lights?

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

[Piet]

Hi Saaz,  So this gets you 2 H4 lamps for the $68.00.  Have you just ordered or have they now arrived?  This looks really interesting.

[saaz]

I have had them in 4000kms or so sofar.  Nearly as long as the last set of +50 H4 bulbs which then failed on low beam.  I have had them a while, just did not fit them.

[Gadget]

Have any of you looked at these LED lights?

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html

These do look promising. 3800 lm @ 5500k for $65. Freight approx $32 for a pair. So a total of around $162 delivered.

Keeping this in mind for when the next bulb blows. (Still have a spare Philips)