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Honda ST1100 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1100... => Topic started by: alans1100 on August 27, 2017, 04:36:23 PM

Title: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: alans1100 on August 27, 2017, 04:36:23 PM
There are a few posts on this and the ones I have looked at have broken picture links which may or may not be updated by the original poster. Since I did this yesterday (26/08/2017) I took a few pictures as I went.

I usually change the oil and filter at the recommended 12,000 km interval as given in the owners manual.

So we need some oil and the filter and I now use Castrol Activ 4T 15W-50. I used a Ryco Z411 this time.

There are others that can be used;

Repco ROF 135
Ryco Z436 - shorter version of Z411
Ryco RMZ 119 - Recommended Ryco size to replace OEM filter

The sump plug needs a 17mm spanner or socket (better), filter removal tool (whatever works for you), 5mm Allen key, a container to drain the oil into, a funnel and a rag or two. Depending on available lighting conditions you might need a torch as well.

Once you have everything you need at hand you need to warm up the oil a little and that means a short ride around a block or two and park the bike on a level space on the centre stand.

Now we can start!

Place oil container under the bike below the sump plug. Use your 17mm tool to loosen the plug and after a turn or two it can be undone by hand though with caution. A socket spanner with an extension tool is best for this so you can avoid being burnt with the oil if it's warmer than planned.

The plug always ends up in the old oil when I do this so I have to fish the plug out when the oil cools off a little. Sometimes the washer and plug part company so make sure both are together when it's time to replace the plug.

Oil has just been dumped and I let it sit dripping while get the other items sorted.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/36672552821_7046087c60_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XSCqit)

RH maintenance cover need to come off - 5mm tool

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/36672552771_4b44e98981_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XSCqhB)

Remove oil filler cap

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/35977487974_80c840a117_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WPd2JN)

Remove the three screws that hold up the rear of the grey plastic - 5mm tool.

Manual says to remove the whole panel and it does make it easier to access the sump plug, oil filter and to clean up any spilt oil when removing the filter. Replacing the panel can be a headache so I make a short cut here. I use the side stand to hold the panel out the way which just gives enough space to remove the filter.

Don't forget the move the oil container to catch the oil coming out from the filter. You need your favourite filter removal tool for this and it only needs to be loosened and undone by hand. Soon the oil will start to seep out so just turn slowly and remove the filter when the oil has stopped coming out. There will still be a little oil in the filter so keep the thread side up.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/35977488854_4ae934b28b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WPd2ZY)

Once the filter is removed and any spilt oil is cleaned off from the side of the motor and exhaust pipes it's best to replace the sump plug making sure the washer is on there as well.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36003044293_ca4427fb95_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WRt1JZ)

Once the sump plug is refitted it's time for the new oil filter to be put on.

I compared the new Ryco to the cheaper old Supercheap equivalent and the obvious difference was the size of the 8 holes and a wider oil seal.

Oil filter also needs some new oil spread thinly on the rubber seal and should hand tight only

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36415303190_f7d9ff1cfb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XtTWX1)

That the last of the "How to" pictures.

Now we have sump plug in place and new filter in place and now the new oil can be added and it will take 3.7 litres.

Rather than a funnel I use a small water bottle with the bottom cut off.

Stop filling after about 3.5 litres have gone in. Replace oil filler cap. Start engine and let idle for a minute or two so the oil will circulate and filter will be full.

While the engine is running check the filter seal for any leaks. In the past I've had a couple of oil filters that needed a little more tightening to prevent a leak. This one was ok

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/35977489374_4f97fd1e01_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WPd39W)

Stop motor and let sit for a few minutes - tighten filter if needed.

Check oil level in site glass in RH side of motor below the wing. You should need to add more oil so remover filler cap and add oil until you can see it between the upper and lower marks.

Do Not Over fill - a little less is better than to much. Anywhere between the lower and upper level is fine but just under the top mark is best. This where a torch might come in handy. It can be a little dark in this area so an added light will make it easier to see the level in the sight glass.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/36024075533_95ce6638b2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WTjNAz)

Once the oil fill is completed it's just a matter putting everything back together.

If you fill out a log book take note of the km - A little over due for this one as it should have been done 1,000 km ago.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/36641493042_26b5891e28_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XPTej3)



Title: Re: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: Brock on August 27, 2017, 05:16:59 PM
Nicely done.

I usually loosen the left lower panel, it flexes enough to allow me to get a habd onto the filter to remove it and refit. The sump plug is easily access from underneath without panel removal.
Title: Re: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: Shiney on August 27, 2017, 07:57:35 PM
Awesome "How To" mate :thumbsup
Title: Re: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: alans1100 on August 28, 2017, 11:14:35 PM
I haven't seen this Ryco RMZ 119 in a shop yet but have seen it on EBay ranging from $16 to $30 plus postage on top and seems to be a standard oil filter on quite a few makes.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=RMZ119&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XRyco+RMZ119.TRS0&_nkw=Ryco+RMZ119&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=RMZ119&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XRyco+RMZ119.TRS0&_nkw=Ryco+RMZ119&_sacat=0)



Title: Re: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: Big Gaz on July 10, 2018, 05:51:53 PM
 :dred11 Done mine today . went to plan as per you instruction . The old filter , i managed to undo by hand , a pleasant surprise . . I tried for about 30 min to fit a z411 filter , seemed to long . Measured up old to new and surprise it was about 10mm to long . :eek. Back up to Super Cheap and got aRP303 , it took a minuted to fit and secure :thumb.Filled her up with Castrol 4t 15 w 50 and fired her up to check for leaks .
Cleaned her up , bolted plastics back on and off we go .
Easier than i thought it would be and only cursed a couple of times , one again thanks Alan for your knowledge and guidance  :chocolate-box-smiley-emoticon


Title: Re: ST1100 Oil/Filter Change
Post by: alans1100 on July 10, 2018, 07:45:35 PM
I have used all of these and they all do fit but I just get what's available at the time I buy.

Repco ROF 135
Ryco Z436 - shorter version of Z411

Thanks for message as I now know when I did my last oil change. Less than a 1000km to the next one.