Final Drive - The carnage continues

[Greencan]

Arvo All...

Well  I am becoming quite use to seeing  ST1100 dysfunctional final drives. But first some housekeeping.

* I have been referring to the recommended Honda spline lubricant as a grease. I was wrong. I now know it is a paste, which in the story that follows in which was applied, it may have been beneficial.

* What I have in a previous thread as a wheel land (for want of a better word), would be more accurately described as a flange. Makes sense, as the piece that connects the wheel to the final drive is called a flange drive.

The pics that follow are of a Friends 1100 that I had agreed to change the timing belt on, but I had always intended to remove the rear wheel as I know that 35,000km, the owner spent a large sum of money on it an authorised Honda motorcycle service centre (now out of business). And part of that cost was on "...fixed that final drive Mate...",  with the invoice showing the cost of the flange drive, but not showing any other components or materials used .

So during the maintenance day here on Saturday, the rear wheel was removed and this is what was found...



I guess the writing was on the wall so to speak, when the wheel removal wasn't as straight forward when the flange drive stuck half in the final drive and half in the wheel.

I estimate the wear within the drive gear wheel to be approx 70% on what is seen and unloaded back lash.



The replacement flange drive, that I think (overall), is in good condition given the condition of the drive gear wheel and the wheel and wheel damper rubbers and blocks.

So, could this (what I think), is limited damage occur by using other lubricants after being matched with a very damaged female spline? If, I am honest, probably not



At some point in the past it appears that the damper blocks had completely rubbed through the damper rubbers, but the rubbers I removed, though completely U/S, were intact

The wheel flange itself has been heavily hammered and is both under 64mm and way out of round



The extent of the damage to the wheel flange on which the the drive flange should snugly fit is graphically illustrated in what is left of the 'O' ring.

Besides being worn completely flat around its entire circumference, the remaining thickness varies from 0.45mm to 0.9mm.



I have stripped the rear wheel as it cannot be returned in this condition, if new replacement components are to utilized.

I am planning on machining out the flange and making and fitting a collar to repair the wheel (more on this later).



The irregularity of drive flange pin wear on the damper blocks indicates just how uneven the drive distribution has been.



I can usually refurbish the damper blocks (more later), but as you can see from the similar witness marks that are with the wheel and crown's of the damper blocks are all very worn, these too are U/S. I cannot refurbish them.



This ABS / Traction sensor was replaced after the above mentioned authorised Honda service work was done.

So in preventing further damage (it surprisingly still works!), replacing worn components , repairer the wheel, is essential

I will post more on this later, after I have completed the repairs.

Cheers the can :-)






 

[Yorkie]

The moly is a paste, the 3 O rings are there to keep the paste in situ.
I have a rear wheel which is worn down by 1mm total, I used metal strapping .05mm as a spacer.

[Greencan]

Mornin' Yorkie et al...

I have a rear wheel which is worn down by 1mm total, I used metal strapping .05mm as a spacer.

...when I removed the rear wheel of second 1100 I got in 2003 in my sister-n-laws garage to be greated with deposit of rust, metal and ground rubber on the floor, I made a spacer just like the one you mention from a small lenght of steel banding routinely used on wooden packing cases. I had to spend a little time hand fettling the wheel flange first to accommodate the piece of packing strap and abandon the flange  'O' ring, as its groove now is non-existant and to experiment with several lubricants between the wheel flange and the drive flange which now houses the 'packing box shim' that wouldn't dry out too quickly (this is where I found the Morey's to last longer).

But 30,000km and countless wheel removals to inspect the effectiveness of this repair solution, its still insitu 11 years on and minimising the wear on the new damper rubbers and damper blocks I fitted at the time. I did however, fit both the flange drive and the complete final drive from my original 1100 to it as the 2nd bikes components were within 1,000km of having an ST1100 with a gearbox full of neutrals! I threw the knackered drive flange in the bin and brought the final drive assembly home and put in new drive gears and installed it in my first 1100 (which are shown in the previous thread).

So as the bike I have featured in this thread isn't mine and I had already been down the shim path, reckon it's time I step up to the plate and with the help of couple of Mates who have larger lathes, mills, have a crack at doing a better repair.

Let ya know how it goes.

Cheers the can :-)

[spanner]

cant see the pics.

[Brock]

OOps, even I cant fix that, looks like the pics have been moved

[spanner]

 

[mikep]

Hi Greencan, any chance of replacing the pics?  I'm not alone in being quite interested in this topic, never having looked at this area of the 1100

[alans1100]

Hi Greencan, any chance of replacing the pics?  I'm not alone in being quite interested in this topic, never having looked at this area of the 1100

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You can check out my repair here which might give you an idea http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=5850.msg66057#msg66057