Author Topic: STig has Electrickery GRRRRemlins !! (Read 16687 times)

ST2UP · « **Reply #25 on:** January 29, 2015, 06:13:18 AM »

My sneaky suspicion is the Bank Angle sensor

I believe it is locked behind the right headlight, anyone confirm so I don't needlessly remove ALL of the front end to get to it ?? Any short cuts I should know about ??

Cheers

JC · « **Reply #26 on:** January 29, 2015, 05:49:09 PM »

I can't see any comments on how fast the engine cranks over.
Does it spin freely and just not fire up?

ST2UP · « **Reply #27 on:** January 30, 2015, 08:05:33 AM »

Quote from: JC on January 29, 2015, 05:49:09 PM

I can't see any comments on how fast the engine cranks over.
Does it spin freely and just not fire up?

Yep sounds as it should.....just with no happy ending

Lionel · « **Reply #28 on:** January 30, 2015, 08:43:42 AM »

You'll need to take the bike to Bangkok to get it repaired with a happy ending.

ST2UP · « **Reply #29 on:** January 30, 2015, 06:51:26 PM »

Think I have found the issue more soon

Brock · « **Reply #30 on:** January 30, 2015, 07:36:39 PM »

ST2UP · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2015, 02:08:20 PM »

And it's back to the drawing board

Bank Angle sensor is all good, thought I had found it

Side stand sensor

Common ground under tank

Voltage when cranking stays above 12.3 volts

Clutch switch

Neutral switch

Running out of things to put a multimeter on.....

StinkyPete · « **Reply #32 on:** January 31, 2015, 02:10:19 PM »

Bugger.

Hendo · « **Reply #33 on:** January 31, 2015, 03:01:14 PM »

Chris,

Back to basics

Fuel- Is the fuel pump priming ( can you hear it or the relay clicking)
Spark - Have you checked for spark on the sparkplug when cranking over.
Air- Obvious , but there are no blockages as you said you already checked.

I'm still hedging bets that it is a fuel problem

What are the voltages at the fuel cut relay again?

Heres what they should be at initial ignition switch on( measured in brackets, battery a little flat):

BL/Wh (Both are the same) - Slightly less than battery voltage (11.2V)
Br - about the same as BL/Wh (10.9V)until the pump reaches pressure approx. 2 seconds then 0V(0V)
Br/Wh - 0V ( 0.1V) till primed approx 2 secs then slightly less than battery voltage (11.2V)

When Bike is Running:

BL/Wh (Both are the same) - Slightly less than battery voltage (13.4V)
Br - about the same as BL/Wh (13.4v)
Br/Wh - 0V (0.1V)

Hope you fix soon.

PC · « **Reply #34 on:** January 31, 2015, 10:53:10 PM »

Have you operated the kill switch a few times i have had that
Peter

Brock · « **Reply #35 on:** January 31, 2015, 11:32:15 PM »

Have a good look at the connections on the starter relay,. one of the guys here in the westhad aproblem ere last week end. He was only about 100 ks away from home.....

JC · « **Reply #36 on:** February 01, 2015, 01:21:45 AM »

The Manual has about 50 pages showing troubleshooting of the fuel injection system.

Have you read pages 5-4 and 5-11, yet?

Have you run the diagnostics procedure, to see if any fault records have been recorded?

STroppy · « **Reply #37 on:** February 01, 2015, 06:33:07 AM »

The 5 way vacuum connector within the air chamber can sometimes clog and causes problems . . I've not experienced this and so don't know what the symtoms are . . Others on the forum who have had this problem may care to divulge what the obstruction results in and what the symtoms are?

Could it be an intermittent problem with the vacuum which may effect the fuel cutoff valve?

Also 4.10 of the Haynes Manual gives a description of the F1 fault codes, Symtoms and possible causes . . Does your F1 display any of the codes?

ST2UP · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:25:19 PM »

Well I have reached the limit of my limited electrical diagnostic skills.....Have a auto electrician calling in tomorrow to hopefully do a lot more than I could achieve with a multimeter, test light and schematic wiring diagram. I have tested earth's, switches, relays, diodes and sensors......

Even the 2 local Honda dealer recommended a Auto sparkie to take this one on

Even walked away from STig a few times eyeing of the mower fuel container

Hopefully a fresh pair of eyes with loads more lecky experience will find the fault so we can move forward

Massive

to everyone for your ideas and experiences

ST2UP · « **Reply #39 on:** February 06, 2015, 10:58:28 PM »

Problem found and fixed....will post a detailed report on where the issue was and now I fixed after the weekends FarRide

Shiney · « **Reply #40 on:** February 07, 2015, 07:24:44 AM »

Awesome news

Brock · « **Reply #41 on:** February 07, 2015, 09:26:32 AM »

again

ST2UP · « **Reply #42 on:** February 09, 2015, 09:33:27 AM »

STig the bad a$$ in black is back

Read above to see the issue and all the fantastic advise from you ST nuts that kept me in the shed (which has a beer fridge) for hours on end

After not being able to find the fault but ending up with a bike that started all the tupperware and electrical do dads where reinstalled methodically and the bike tested after each movement of anything....without fault, but knowning the fault was still underlying

Even a 100k test ride proved nothing......but next morning after starting (well priming the fuel pump) a ridiculous number of times the previous day......NO GO !

But aleast I had the fault back to find

Another strip down and a hour with the multimeter and it was found

There is an active wire between the Fuel cut-off relay and the Engine stop relay that didn't have continuity ....and although these 2 relays sit side by side on the left side of the bike the active wire disapears back into the loom for an unknown distance only to return......

When discovered it was now a simple repair.....I used a weatherproof inline blade fuse holder with a 20amp fuse to bridge the fault. I used the fuse so IF I choose to get motivated in the future to open the wiring loom to the fault I can replicated the
drama.

thanks for all the words of encouragment and all your ideas

Biggles · « **Reply #43 on:** February 09, 2015, 01:10:31 PM »

So somehow the wire broke along inside the loom somewhere!?
Who'd have thought?
Looms are supposed to be pretty much bullet-proof, with the faults occurring on the single wires (chafes to earth etc).

Brian · « **Reply #44 on:** February 09, 2015, 04:54:50 PM »

We have a lot of smart folk in this club....well done and thank you for sharing

JC · « **Reply #45 on:** February 09, 2015, 08:40:31 PM »

Quote from: ST2UP on February 09, 2015, 09:33:27 AM

There is an active wire between the Fuel cut-off relay and the Engine stop relay that didn't have continuity ....and although these 2 relays sit side by side on the left side of the bike the active wire disapears back into the loom for an unknown distance only to return......

When discovered it was now a simple repair.....I used a weatherproof inline blade fuse holder with a 20amp fuse to bridge the fault. I used the fuse so IF I choose to get motivated in the future to open the wiring loom to the fault I can replicated the
drama.

Something may have changed. I've looked at the wiring diagram supplied by Honda and cannot see an Engine Stop Relay in that part of the circuit to/from the Fuel Cut-off Relay. Is that picture from a Haynes Manual?

Is the Black/White wire at 12V+ve or a common 12V-ve?

ST2UP · « **Reply #46 on:** February 09, 2015, 09:03:22 PM »

Yep thanks from the Hayes manual

and the wire in question is an active feed +Ve.....

Thanks for posting the other diagram from Honda....have stashed it away for future reference

News:

Author Topic: STig has Electrickery GRRRRemlins !! (Read 16687 times)