OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Oils, Oil Filters & Servicing ST1100 => Topic started by: spanner on October 14, 2015, 01:21:40 PM
-
I am needing to change the oil and filter on the ST11 beastie.
If I go to Repco or supercheap or similar what is it I need to ask for?
Is there a specific number/brand/style of filter I need to ask for and what sort of oil should I use?
Also should I look at doing radiator coolant and any other oils at the same time??
Cheers,
Spanner.
-
I've decided on the Repco ROF 135 (Brock uses) filter ($9 at our local store) and I've used Castrol Active 4T oil the last two times so going for that again.
Ryco Z436 is the same as the Repco one and I've used Z4111 which is the same diameter as the 436 but a little longer. Ryco do a filter for the STs ...... RMZ119 but not sure if anyone stocks it. See my post here http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=9902.msg117415#msg117415 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=9902.msg117415#msg117415)
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre.aspx?pid=20019#Recommendations (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre.aspx?pid=20019#Recommendations)
-
I use Shell HX5 which is often on special at Super Cheap. I pour the dirty oil into empty oil containers and take a couple to my car mechanic each service to add to his oil drum.
Also the Ryco Z436 filters which also fit the ST1300. Don't waste money on the "Premium" version of the filters. It's just a glam upsell.
-
If you do the coolant change, just ensure you use the same colour coolant to what's in it now. Most likely the green one, not the red. Even if you flush it right out, there will be a little of the old coolant left, and the two colours don't mix well. Apparently.
-
If you do the coolant change, just ensure you use the same colour coolant to what's in it now. Most likely the green one, not the red. Even if you flush it right out, there will be a little of the old coolant left, and the two colours don't mix well. Apparently.
I didn't know what was in mine when I refilled the coolant after doing the timing belt/cooling system at 150,000 km I used the Nulon red OAT coolant.
-
If you do the coolant change, just ensure you use the same colour coolant to what's in it now. Most likely the green one, not the red. Even if you flush it right out, there will be a little of the old coolant left, and the two colours don't mix well. Apparently.
I didn't know what was in mine when I refilled the coolant after doing the timing belt/cooling system at 150,000 km I used the Nulon red OAT coolant.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/how-to/Servicing-Mechanical/What-is-the-right-coolant-for-your-vehicle-.aspx?id=86 (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/how-to/Servicing-Mechanical/What-is-the-right-coolant-for-your-vehicle-.aspx?id=86)
and
http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/Files/Gates%20AU/Automotive/Technical%20Service%20Bulletins/TSB007%20%20Prevent%20Premature%20Water%20Pump%20Failure%20%20Avoid%20Warranty%20Claim%20Rejection%20by%20Keeping%20the%20Cooling%20System%20Free%20of%20Debris%20%20Corrosion.pdf (http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/Files/Gates%20AU/Automotive/Technical%20Service%20Bulletins/TSB007%20%20Prevent%20Premature%20Water%20Pump%20Failure%20%20Avoid%20Warranty%20Claim%20Rejection%20by%20Keeping%20the%20Cooling%20System%20Free%20of%20Debris%20%20Corrosion.pdf)
Personally, I'd prefer to ensure that I had the same type, as it is not a simple process to completely flush a cooling system. Besides, it's just not worth the risk of mixing them, even if it's only a small chance that something will go wrong. But I'm sure that there are also others who have done it with no obvious negative effect. I just wouldn't risk it, as it's not hard to see what type/colour of coolant is used and just buy the same. If I were topping up coolant and I couldn't tell the colour, I'd just use distilled water, or for that matter in the short term, tap water, and then change it out soon after.
-
If I were topping up coolant and I couldn't tell the colour, I'd just use distilled water, or for that matter in the short term, tap water, and then change it out soon after.
When I picked up my ST the recovery bottle was empty, so I just topped it up with distilled water, when the level did rise it was a murky brown, do no idea what colourist once was! I'll just use the old green favourite, since it's what I use in my other bikes.
An interesting side note, a mechanic mate of mine (he's a specialist with the Ford proving team... still even has a job somehow!) believes that, despite claimed lifespans etc, an Ethyl/Glycol mix will start to break down after 12 months in an engine, irrespective of the amount of use. After a certain point it can actually become corrosive. I've got no evidence to back it up, he's just one of those guys who is very knowledgeable and I tend to trust... I seem to have an annual coolant-change-party in my garage about this time every year ;)
-
The murky brown was most likely because at some stage, the previous owner had changed from the green to red, where the flushing didn't get rid of all the old coolant. It also could have been caused by simply topping up with the wrong one as well. If you mix red with green, it becomes brownish, depending on the ratios, and at best, the anti-corrosion properties of the coolant are reduced considerably, at worst, you get a brown gel forming in the coolant which can cause problems with other components.
Your mate would be correct as well. There is plenty of evidence around on the web on galvanic corrosion of cooling systems in bi-metal situations, where the coolant turns acidic and becomes the electrolyte. Cathode is usually the biggest iron part, and the annode the thinnest bit of aluminium. Best thing to do to avoid it: change your coolant every year, and don't try to swap from the green to the red, as flushing the system isn't as simple as putting a garden hose up and/or down the radiator hose, as you'll still get pockets of old coolant hanging around ready to mix with the new. If you use the same type of coolant, there is less risk in the coolant becoming less effective sooner.
I've got a water to air intercooler on my Landcruiser, and my mate who used to install them now doesn't, as every single one he's fitted has come back to him with problems of pinholes in the intercooler core. Mine hasn't been problematic, as I regularly change the coolant (the red type), although my next change will be to a specific intercooler fluid. More electrical devices seen to increase the likelyhood of galvanic corrosion as well, so the more electrical farkles you have, the risk increases.
I also do a yearly change of coolant, brake and clutch fluid. These fluids are relatively cheap compared to the potential repair costs, and whilst I could stretch out the brake and clutch fluid to every second year, it is still cheap insurance to do it yearly. Just another job to do when the tupperwear comes off :grin
-
... I seem to have an annual coolant-change-party in my garage about this time every year ;)
A man party if I heard of one .... ill be there next year!
:beer
-
It's worth the visit, there's usually just the three of us there, but I always step on my shadow, and get into an argument with my echo...
-
I didn't know what was in mine when I refilled the coolant after doing the timing belt/cooling system at 150,000 km I used the Nulon red OAT coolant.
Don't want to hijack, but I'm off to buy coolant this morning, Repco has Nulon red on sale ($22), just wondering if the OAT is a different product?
...Or is it just made from 100% natural grains? :P
-
Don't want to hijack, but I'm off to buy coolant this morning, Repco has Nulon red on sale ($22), just wondering if the OAT is a different product?
...Or is it just made from 100% natural grains? :P
This might help http://www.coolantexperts.com/coolant_overview/oat_coolant (http://www.coolantexperts.com/coolant_overview/oat_coolant)
-
Fantastic, tganks
-
Corrosion Inhibitors based on fully neutralized organic acids and azoles
Now there is some Tecnobabble for you... Neutralized Acid.. To me that means salty water.
I remember my chemistry I do
-
I just did an oil/filter change on my 02 ST1100 and I picked up my usual from Supercheap Penrite HPR10 10W-50 fully synthetic. I also grabbed a Ryco Z436 and so far no leaks. The fully synthetic is good oil a little pricey but I started using it on my first oil change and was advised that you should not keep changing oil types as it is not good for your engine. Not sure how true this is but I got my last synthetic on special anyway.
cheers
Keith
-
I have been using the Castrol 4T ($35 at Repco) in all my bikes with no problems. I used the ROF135 in my ST1100 without problems.
Lately I have filled all my watercooled bikes (and quad) with a waterless coolant (http://liquidintelligence.com.au/products/motorcycle-super-waterless-coolant (http://liquidintelligence.com.au/products/motorcycle-super-waterless-coolant)) more for the anti corrosion properties and don't have to change for 350,000Km. Engine needs to be clean of glycol and dry before filling, but have found it to be an excellent product and Australian made.
-
>:()hi to you all.my bike is soon going to reach 60,000 ks and I thought I would start my service routine at this point .Being new to this group I wondered whether you guys recomend mineral or synthetic.The previous owner thinks he used Motul synthetic but I couldn't nail him down on this one .As I'm not sure whether its mineral or synthetic would i cause any harm if I change to a synthetic oil and previously it was a mineral oil? Can you recommend a good quality oil and a good filter as I don't like using budget crap! I've always used the genuine filter for my Suzuki but its close to $30 dollars .iIs the Ryco filter the better one for the Honda st1100 .thanks for your brains trust!
Regards John g
-
Look here John, it may help answer some of your questions :thumb
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=498.msg62375#msg62375 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=498.msg62375#msg62375)
I use Penrite HPR30 in both my 11 & 13.
-
Hi to you all.my bike is soon going to reach 60,000 ks and I thought I would start my service routine at this point .Being new to this group I wondered whether you guys recomend mineral or synthetic.The previous owner thinks he used Motul synthetic but I couldn't nail him down on this one .As I'm not sure whether its mineral or synthetic would i cause any harm if I change to a synthetic oil and previously it was a mineral oil? Can you recommend a good quality oil and a good filter as I don't like using budget crap! I've always used the genuine filter for my Suzuki but its close to $30 dollars .iIs the Ryco filter the better one for the Honda st1100 .thanks for your brains trust!
Regards John g
John, Many of us are using Penrite 10Tenths Racing 15 15W50 oil. See this link for more information.... https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_subcateg=0&id_products=278 (https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_subcateg=0&id_products=278) This oil comes up on specials at Repco from time to time.
I also believe that Ryco-Z436 and K&N-204 will fit the ST1300, but I'm still using the OEM Honda filters.
-
I had so much trouble getting the first filter I changed off the bike that I use k&n 204 for the built in nut on the end.
I use this for oil now. See pic.
As another member pointed out the Jaso rating is important for bikes for the clutch. This is on special periodically and I like synthetic for its ability to handle heat.
-
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac17/gtrleo/Honda%20genuine%20oil%20filter_zps8q7cvbc4.jpg) (http://s881.photobucket.com/user/gtrleo/media/Honda%20genuine%20oil%20filter_zps8q7cvbc4.jpg.html)
I got one of these combo from Toowoomba Honda for not much more $$$ than an oil filter on its own :like
-
:blu13 Does that fit Ryco 436? :think1 :blu13left
-
:blu13 Does that fit Ryco 436? :think1 :blu13left
Don't Know I know they fit Honda oil filter to suit ST1300 someone else that has fitted Ryco Filters could tell you
If the Ryco filter and Honda filter are the same size
-
:runyay thanks to all for your replies .Its good to know the voice of experience rather than the voice of salespeople whose hands are more likely to be stained with ink rather than oil!
-
([url]http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac17/gtrleo/Honda%20genuine%20oil%20filter_zps8q7cvbc4.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s881.photobucket.com/user/gtrleo/media/Honda%20genuine%20oil%20filter_zps8q7cvbc4.jpg.html[/url])
I got one of these combo from Toowoomba Honda for not much more $$$ than an oil filter on its own :like
Looks a good idea. Don't know if the Honda and Ryco filters are exactly the same. They look close to the same and this adaptor may fit. I may get one of these and go back to Honda filters. Last time I priced them they were $22.
Sent from my iPad
-
Castrol Activ 4T 15-50 may be a cheaper alternative to the synthetic Penrite. See http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre.aspx?pid=20019#Recommendations (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre.aspx?pid=20019#Recommendations)
Being a 15-50 it's a little heavier than the OEM Honda oil, and will smooth out the gear changes. My dealer also recommends Motul 5100 4T 10W40
-
Castro Activ is 34.95 for 4 litres which is 8.70 per litre'
Penrite synthetic is 64.95 for 6 litres which is 10.80 per litre.
Thats not a huge difference. Either would be good choice and as my local dealer told me when buying coolant etc recently Castrol supplies the Honda oil at present. So the active may be the same as the Honda OEM oil. :13Candy
-
Bought some oil and filter today from the local Supercheap Store over at Port Pirie.
Castrol Active 4T 15w-50 for $32.50 and on special until end of October
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre/20019 (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Castrol-Activ-4T-Motorcycle-Oil-15W-50-4-Litre/20019)
Bought their Ryco Z411 equivalent oil filter as well for $8.92 SCO411
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Oil-Filter-SCO411/214370 (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Oil-Filter-SCO411/214370)
I've used the Ryco filter before and it's the same diameter as the Z436 but a little longer. The Z436 was out of stock otherwise I may have got that though it does cost a little more than the Z411.
Now the oil change can get done before I go to Kimba and at 192,000 plus it is due to be done.