ST1100 Towbar and Wiring instructions

[Streak]

Howdy all,
                Would anyone have mounting instructions for a classic industries tow bar, and a wiring diagram for wiring in the plug?

Never done it before and it wanted to do it myself 

Cheers

Graham

[Brock]

Here are the wiring diagrams for the trailer plug.
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/wiring-diagrams

[alans1100]

First up, if you buy new, Classic supplies longer exhaust mount bolts for both sides.



One support/hanger each side. My wiring which is connected in from behind the tail light comes down the RH side to the trailer plug. Wiring can run down either side, depends on trailer wiring/plug location. The tape, well, that's not visible behind side case.



Supports/hangers mount here........you will need to make a slot for the bar to slide through, OEM nuts/bolts ??? are enough.



At last tyre I changed my bolting position one forward for the support/hanger which lowered the ball height a little and bought it more in line with the rear wheel axle centre.



Side view showing how the trailer draw bar and tow bar line up. My new shock seems to give about the same ride height regardless of one or two up on the bike so that critical horizontal line up between trailer and bike should be ok.

[Streak]

Thats fantastic! thank you Alan, looks like i am going on the hunt for some exhaust bolts.....as i am assuming the standard bolts are to short?

[Lionel]

I have an Anderson plug mounted on the side of the rear mudguard, roughly at the same level as the number plate in one of the above pics.
It is connected to the battery via a fused, heavy gauge cable.
I use it for two purposes. Firstly, to charge the battery if its flat (no need to remove any panel work). Secondly, to charge my 100 amp/hr deep cycle battery in the trailer.
This is nothing to do with the trailer wiring but you might consider doing something similar while you're dabbling in 12 volts.
Obviously you also need an Anderson plug on the trailer. And I have modified a set of jumper leads - Anderson plug at one end.

[Pezzz]

Thats fantastic! thank you Alan, looks like i am going on the hunt for some exhaust bolts.....as i am assuming the standard bolts are to short?

STreak,
I am still in the midst of fitting mine now. The bar attachment i did yesterday at the seller's house (great hour there) and now I am rewiring the trailer as it seems indicators don't work and i found some frayed wire.
I got some pics today so i will upload tomorrow. Guy i bought from took entire duck tail off to do his wiring but i found if you fold down the plastic bit at the back you can undo the plug that the wires are connected onto the loom with and feed back to nice working position.
To make holes in plastic where support rods come through i just used a small wood chisel and made 2 slits in the base of the plastic as far forward as i could as it starts to climb up the mold for the arch.
Bolts are standard metric. Take one out and run it down the road to hardware store and ask for 2 about 20mm longer. Look around for other missing bolts while you are there... i found both panier mounts were missing front bolts so i put them in at the same time.
I have the 7 pin flat plug and socket type from Brock's wiring diagrams and used the Blue wire to battery (fused) to add a Cigarette lighter jack into the trailer as well "just in case" 
Hope this helps. Will post pics tomorrow (pics on phone and too lazy / tired /  to upload now)
Pezzz
 
PS.. now that one of the OzSTOC  "gods" has a trailer, we need a trailer emoticon i think ......   

[royst1100]

lionel would you be able to post photo as i'm thinking off doing that and also what size battery did you use

[Pezzz]

Here are the pics i have. Sorry not too god. Bar was fitted away from home and had already done wiring before i saw your post but here goes....
Bolts need to be about 20mm longer than standard here and up top where the stays are secured in the next 2 photos.





Put your slits in the plastic as close to arch as possible as the stays angle slightly forward.



Then just push stays through, line up your height and tighten bolts. Bar fitted ....   

Wiring:
I had this handy dandy list to go by. B = Bike side wiring and T = Tow Bar side wiring ....  amazing huh ???



I pulled down access cover to rear lights and pulled the connector and loom out then freed up from clips etc to get some working room and soldered in just before first clip on side of bike as the loom goes up over some mounty thingo ....





Test, solder, insulate each solder join, wrap up in black tape to "look the goods" and pop it all back together. Haven't got that far yet as i am running new trailer wire due to wear and breakages.

Hope this helps ..   
Pezzz
 

[Brock]

I would prefer to make up an adapter plug to go in there. That way when it comes time to remove the towbar, its a simple matter to unplug and remove..

But thats just me, and I have the plugs and crimping tools.

 

P.S. Gotta make up a lead for my bike

[Lionel]

Royce,

Charging Batteries
Here is a pic of my CTEK charger connected via an Anderson plug to a pair of heavy duty jumper leads. In this configuration I can charge most batteries by simply connecting the jumper leads to the offending battery.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab78/Lionel_127/OzSTOC/IMG_1572_zpsd2fb4b3a.jpg

However, I found the jumper lead clamps to be unsatisfactory for a number of reasons, the principal one being they were easily dislodged from the battery terminal.

So my cars, bikes and boat batteries each have an Anderson plug permanently connected to them. Most of the Anderson plugs are free hanging but the bike ones are screwed to the side of the mudguard. When I want to charge any of these batteries, the jumper leads are removed from the CTEK and the Anderson plug on the CTEK is then connected to the battery's Anderson plug. It saves having to remove the seat and then panels to get to the bike's battery.

Towing the Trailer
I take a deep cycle battery in the trailer to power my 40 litre Engel fridge. An Anderson plug is permanently connected to the deep cycle battery (just like my car batteries) via a heavy duty cable. Its an easy matter to connect this trailer Anderson plug to the one mounted on the bike's mudguard. Note, this electrical arrangement is for my convenience and has nothing to do with the usual trailer (lights) wiring.

A Trident 120 amp/hr deep cycle battery is the largest battery I've carried in the trailer. The ST1100 kept this battery charged when on the move. When camped I disconnect the Anderson plug to isolate the bike's battery. Currently, I have a 100 amp/hr battery in the trailer which powers the fridge over a long weekend.

I paid an electrician to install a 240 v external connection on the trailer. I did this so I could lock the fridge (and its contents) inside the trailer and still power it over longer camping periods - much like a caravan connection.