St1300 broken key

[Fossil178]

Hi all, new to forums so bear with me. Just getting ready for a trip found my ign key was twisted, on closer inspection have realised it is all but broken about a third of the way down and will not survive another start (was very lucky it did not break in the switch). So go get the spare to find it is not coded. If i use the uncoded key in the ign and hold the broken coded one against it the bike will start. So the question is can i swap the broken key blade with the unbroken key blade (or swap the plastic bit with the electronics) this will get me out of touble.
Regards fossil178

[Brookester]

Answer is yes, but can also go to any locksmith and get a new coded key also. There is also the choice to get non-coded keys for your side boxes to protect your coded keys from breaking-twisting. A shorter one is also possible for side boxes.

[Williamson]

Answer is yes, but can also go to any locksmith and get a new coded key also. There is also the choice to get non-coded keys for your side boxes to protect your coded keys from breaking-twisting. A shorter one is also possible for side boxes.

Ditto to all of the above.

[Biggles]

About $130 for a coded key.
Be aware the ECU will only accept 4 coded keys.

[Williamson]

About $130 for a coded key.
Be aware the ECU will only accept 4 coded keys.

I think it was @Lawrence that suggested $60 down this way.

[Dragonstaff]

Lindsay, If there isn't someone down your way, Loxton Locksmiths should be able to. Give him a ring in case he needs a couple of days to find a blank.

Short term, finish the job on the broken one and tape the plastic bit to the plain key.

[Fossil178]

Thanks to all, starting to feel a little warmer and fuzzy. Have decided at this stage to try to swap the electonic bits from the uncoded new key with the old broken key. Has anyone done this and is it straightforward.
Regards fossil178

[cravenhaven]

From what I remember, the "essential bit" is a little gummy ball enclosed in the plastic key top. Just open it and swap it over to the uncoded key.

[Fossil178]

Thanks for everyones help, i have swaped the electroncs between the keys and all appears well in the universe. Have ordered a new spare key and will have it cut and coded along with the suggestion to have normal key done for the panniers etc.
Regards fossil178

[Williamson]

Thanks for everyones help, i have swaped the electroncs between the keys and all appears well in the universe. Have ordered a new spare key and will have it cut and coded along with the suggestion to have normal key done for the panniers etc.
Regards fossil178

 

[Brookester]

Try this if you like?

I asked a locksmith (does work for a large bike shop in Sydney's south) at a job yesterday and he said this would work, so here it is:-

It will cost about $6.00 - $10.00 pending on Locksmith.

The key is that long just for the ignition only (so you can push down and lock the steering). Excluding transponder stuff.

The remaining locks do not require the longer shaft, (keep it clean) or the transponder stuff.

So, ask the locksmith to cut a blank "Silca", model YH29 for the double sided teeth only of your original key.

This will make the key approx. half the size of the original, and minimise the "torque" placed on the key shaft when opening compartments etc.

So, at the end you will have a key for the ignition and a separate key for the remaining locks.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Dave

[Abe]

Thanks Brookester, I forgot about this post.

What I did do, (saw it on the internet somewhere)   
Cut the key blank down and glued it in to a "volume knob" (Jaycar) and it lives in the nearside pie warmer.
I think it looks OK.

Take care and stay safe