Author Topic: ST1300 Headlight Bulb Replacement (Read 60787 times)

Shiney · « **on:** February 17, 2013, 03:51:40 PM »

Over the weekend I found myself having to replace the left side headlight bulb as low beam had stopped working.
So I thought I’d take some pics and do another How To

Put the bike on the centre stand and turn the handlebars to the side you need to replace (as I was replacing the bulb on the left I turned it to the left)
This gives a great view to the rear of the headlight

Note: The area can be accessed from above (following the line of sight in the following pics) or from below.

Now remove the plug from the back of the existing bulb.
(The plug has a tab on each side that needs to be pushed in at the same time to release its grip on the bulb)
NOTE: The tabs on the side of the plug are are actually located closer to the bulb then is displayed in the picture below

Now remove the rubber boot from around the bulb.
The boot on mine has a rubber tab sticking out so it was easy to grab and pull, the boot comes straight off.

This will expose the bulb and the tension wire securing the bulb in place.

Now release the tension wire and remove the bulb.
Push in on the wire and move it to the side to release the wire as shown in the following image

Cut the two side tabs off the new bulb

Slip an adaptor shim over the top of the new bulb (If the old bulb has one on it remove it and place it on the new bulb)

The adaptor has a small cut out at the bottom that fits around two little tabs that stick up. With a set of pliers squash the base of the bulb to the adaptor then bend the two little tabs over the adaptor to help secure it to the base of the bulb.

Now slip the new bulb into the light enclosure (feel around the edges to make sure the tabs are sitting in the matching groves)
Push the tension wire across the bulb and slide it to the side to lock it in place.

Now slip the rubber boot over the bulb.
Place a finger through the little hole and hold it up to the back of the bulb, feel for the three prongs from the back of the bulb and slid the boot on around them (make sure all three prongs come through the hole) then push around the outer edge of the boot to secure it in place.

Finally slip the power plug onto the bulb and test

Cheers
Shiney

Esstee 13 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2013, 03:57:49 PM »

Nice write up Shiney.
I replaced both of mine a couple of weeks ago with Phillips globes and the light output is now sensational. It took me just under 1 hour to do the first side and 9 minutes to do the second side. Ahh the pleasure of knowing what you are doing.

Whizz · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2013, 04:57:39 PM »

Good write up mate, we should start calling this section "Shiney's Manuals" after the Haynes Manuals of years gone by. The Haynes Manuals were done the same way, they bought a car and the mechanic took it apart while having photos taken of salient bits and pieces. Then the whole thing was put back together with more pictures. Incredibly useful manuals which would allow an almost complete novice to strip his car down to the floor and the rebuild it.

Well done, keep it up!!

Shiney · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2013, 06:46:06 PM »

Thanks Esstee

And a big thankyou to Whizz for all the kind words and encouragement over all my guides

I'm sure I'll do some other things to the bike

so there will be more How To Guides showing up in the future

And luckily the brain trust is always there to make sure the whole thing makes sense and add anything I missed, thanks guys

Cheers
Shiney

Shiney · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2013, 07:46:58 PM »

Thanks Gavo

The bulbs I used were these ones from ebay.au:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261109534456?var=560161364093&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Shiney · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2013, 07:50:01 PM »

Oh and when buying them you must choose which ones you want... I chose the following

H4 12V 60/55W Super White

Biggles · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2013, 09:37:19 PM »

What are the the two free LEDs that they include good for, Shiney?

Shiney · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2013, 09:41:56 PM »

Quote from: Biggles on February 17, 2013, 09:37:19 PM

What are the the two free LEDs that they include good for, Shiney?

Sorry Biggles, I have no idea

(

it has a little slip of paper packaged with them that says: Free gift 2 x T10 LED)

If anyone figures it out let me know

Brock · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2013, 09:59:06 PM »

Maybe for the park lights, that we dont have....

saaz · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2013, 09:06:18 AM »

I just did a replacement of the left bulb in an ST13 (seems the left bulbs go all the time for some reason). Easy enough when you have done it once or seen Shiney's guide. I ws wondering why it was so hard to do, until I found that some bright spark had silasticed the rubber boot around the bulb

I put in a spare Philips Vision plus bulb I had spare, and it was noticeably brighter than the standard bulb in the other side.

IanB · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2013, 09:56:42 AM »

Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.

Biggles · « **Reply #11 on:** February 18, 2013, 11:29:03 AM »

Quote from: IanB on February 18, 2013, 09:56:42 AM

Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.

You're so right about the connector- I found it the hardest part. I had encountrered the wire on car headlights before.

The first time I did this without the benefit of a manual or Shiney's presentation , I ended up yanking the connector off with pliers after struggling with it with my hurting arthritic fingers for ages. I squeezed until my arm ached, expecting there would be some sort of retaining clip, not knowing it was the part closest to the bulb that required squeezing.

If you agree with that analysis you could add it to photo #3, Shiney.

Shiney · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2013, 03:21:51 PM »

Quote from: Biggles on February 18, 2013, 11:29:03 AM

Quote from: IanB on February 18, 2013, 09:56:42 AM
Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.

You're so right about the connector- I found it the hardest part. I had encountrered the wire on car headlights before.

The first time I did this without the benefit of a manual or Shiney's presentation , I ended up yanking the connector off with pliers after struggling with it with my hurting arthritic fingers for ages. I squeezed until my arm ached, expecting there would be some sort of retaining clip, not knowing it was the part closest to the bulb that required squeezing.

If you agree with that analysis you could add it to photo #3, Shiney.

Thanks guys

Your both bang on the money, well spotted

I hadn't noticed how far back my fingers were in the photo

The guide has been updated

As with your example Biggles, little bits of information like that that can make a huge difference

Thanks for letting me know

Cheers
Shiney

Gadget · « **Reply #13 on:** April 03, 2013, 09:29:03 PM »

Glad I saw this before my ST1300 decided to become a pirate and have a bung left eye.

I personally found it easier for me to reach in from under the front with the wheel turned to the left to do the left bulb. The bulbs on the bike were Honda 45/45W originals. So as I didn't have any shims on hand I did a bit more web searching and found where someone had just bent the bottom two H4 tabs back. Once I worked out how to do it on a spare Xenon H4 I had in the cupboard, I went off to Super Cheap and bought a set of Narva Blue Plus for about $65. (turns out they are Osram Bulbs made in Germany)

After fitting the new Bulbs, I took a look at the front and the clearance/parking lights looked decidedly yellow. As the new set came with blue tinted clearance/parking light bulbs or as Honda call them "Position Light", I decided to have a go at replacing them. The Owners Manual on Page 117 gives 4 steps and refers you in step 1 to Page 88 inner cowl removal.

Up to there it was pretty straight forward. After the inner cowl was removed I tried approaching from top and from the bottom and I found teh approach from underneath gave me more feel and maneuverability. For some reason I started on the Right-hand side first. It took me quite a while to actually find the socket (Rubberised) because it was behind an large unplugged Yellow Socket. Once I got it out by lots of wiggling it was fairly easy to replace the bulb in the socket, but getting the socket back into the light assembly was very difficult, because the aforementioned Yellow socket kept getting in the way. finally I could see the blue bulb coming through the fitting and after another bout of wiggling and pushing on the socket it finally seated all the way in. The left hand side was fairly quick as there was a lot more free space.

Took it out for a run this evening up an unlight road and I now have a very clear evenly distributed wide low beam, and a lot of range on High Beam.

Obviously they won't be as good as HID's but, they are a relatively cheap way of getting decent lighting without all the extra dangly bits.

Sorry no pix as I was flat out getting the job done in a morning.

Cheers,
Gary
________________________________________________________

Shiney · « **Reply #14 on:** April 03, 2013, 10:51:20 PM »

Awesome work mate

BigTed · « **Reply #15 on:** April 17, 2013, 12:39:01 AM »

ole lefty went on mine yesterday. So, off to Supercheap I go and bought a pack of these: Calibre Halogen Globe - 12V, 60/55W, Xenon Blue, Extra Vision Performance, 2 Pack. I've been riding in the dark AM and PM lately and felt quite vulnerable with only 1 operating, so I didn't argue about price or have time to find something better/cheaper on fleabay.

Shiney's instructions had me done (for both left and right) in about 20 mins. I found it easier to come in from the top rather than underneath. Perhaps it's my dainty ballet dancer fingers that made it easier. I don't know how you get your meat-hooks in there Magilla! I also found the hardest part was getting the right-hand connector back on - working blind, facing the rear of the bike, eyes closed.... be the bulb, be the bulb.

Also, I didn't bother with the shims - 'cos I didn't have any. Since righty was working, I powered her up after doing the left and the alignment seemed spot-on, so I doubt I'll ever worry about it. Besides, I can always use that dial on the left hand side of the dash again - I've not used it since the first day I had the bike home.

Cheers to Shiney!

tj189 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 17, 2013, 05:35:09 AM »

Yes, another great write up, thanks Shiney

Shiney · « **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2013, 04:08:16 PM »

Thanks guys

I'm glad it has been of some assistance

Cheers
Shiney

SAMM · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2013, 05:58:23 AM »

SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.

Biggles · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2013, 01:16:46 PM »

Quote from: SAMM on September 08, 2013, 05:58:23 AM

SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.

Sounds like a lot of head scratching and/or beer cogitation went on in that time.

For most of us, the killer was getting the wire plug off the old bulb. Shiny's advice about squeezing the plug makes all the difference between frustration and a simple job.

Shiney · « **Reply #20 on:** September 08, 2013, 03:45:50 PM »

Quote from: SAMM on September 08, 2013, 05:58:23 AM

SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.

Welcome to the forum SAMM

It sounds like one of the bulbs may have a little stuck

but once you got it removed the process became a LOT easier

I'm glad you found the guide to be of some assistance mate

Cheers
Shiney

Brian Woods · « **Reply #21 on:** September 29, 2013, 01:52:30 PM »

This would have been a really tough job without your help. I have a question for all. I am new to my ST1300 and love it but I am trying to install Pia Blue Plus blubs. As you probably know the tabs don't line up. Can I just fold them back to fit in the space then lock with the spring wire? If I have to cut them off and use a shim, where would I find the shims.? Are they stock items, I don't know. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I really want to use the Pia bulbs. Thanks in advance.

Biggles · « **Reply #22 on:** September 29, 2013, 02:29:00 PM »

Welcome to the Forum, Brian. No better way to enter than via a question!
You can just bend and break the bottom 2 lugs and the bulb will sit in the headlight just fine. To "belt and brace it" you can buy the H4 shims online. They just ensure the bulb is held flat if there was any doubt. They are after-market manufacture.

Brian Woods · « **Reply #23 on:** September 30, 2013, 01:39:14 AM »

Thanks Biggles, I am sure I have this now. Also thanks Shiney, the pic by pic really helped.
My ST1300 totally has my old BMW 1200LT beat. I look forward to gleaning more information from the trust. Ride safe.

StinkyPete · « **Reply #24 on:** September 30, 2013, 08:13:57 AM »

Hi Brian, Can you please give us some feedback of how you find the improvement with the bulbs fitted.

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/49-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bulbs.aspx According to the company blurb at the link, the 60/55 H4 will give the equivalent of 100 watts of light output.

"The PIAA H4 Style Xtreme White Bulb provides intense white light at a 4105K rating to illuminate road hazards and street signs long before normal halogen bulbs, with a slight blue topcoat tint for enhanced curb appeal. Manufactured to SAE recommended specifications and DOT compliant, this 12V bulb provides 110 watts of light for 60 watts of power on the high beam (60/55=110/100 watt) and is made with a high-quality, heat-resistant tube."

News:

Author Topic: ST1300 Headlight Bulb Replacement (Read 60787 times)