OzSTOC
Welcome - Getting started & FAQs - Read Here First... => Introduce Yourself & Your Bike => Topic started by: Old Paul on August 07, 2020, 10:56:41 PM
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Hi Guys Pommie Paul here. Today is meant to be our hottest day (37 C) for 10 years. Cool by Oz standards I suspect.
Anyway, I bought my 2007 (manufactured 2006) ST1300 last January so with the Covid, I've only been able to do 4000 miles to date.
In the past, I've owned many bikes including a GL1500se Goldwing and Yamaha Fjr1300.
I've been riding on and off for over 50 years. Despite this, I still haven't mastered the sensitive throttle control. Some may say replicated my bad habits 50 times!
I've added a G2 Throttle Tamer (no improvement), replaced/lubed the cables and reduced the free-play to almost zero. Since raising the issue with the ST-Owners Forum my throttle control has definitely improved (but not perfect). However, over bumpy roads I find it almost impossible to maintain a steady throttle so any advice would certainly be appreciated. Grip Puppies arriving today. Do all ST1300s suffer from this throttle issue? I never had the issues on my FJR1300.
Apart from that I intend to try most maintenance issues. I've already changed the engine oil, serviced the brake calipers/pads and lubed the rear splines. However, I could not undo the oil filter (23 Nm!!) which is far too high and so I got the Honda workshop to undo/replace it.
I look forward to participating in discussions on this forum.
Old Paul
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Hi Paul from Toowoomba in Queensland Australia :hatwave
Enjoy your ST1300 they are a great bike :thumbsup
Enjoy the Forum :thumbs
:beer
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A warm welcome from a below 37°C Adelaide. :hatwave
p.s.
We don't use miles here. :Stirpot
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No miles eh?
Ooops! That's my first error >:()
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Hi Old Paul and another welcome from South Australia. :hatwave You will find lots of advice and information here.
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Hi Old Paul, welcome from the Adelaide Hills, on one of our coldest days for some time. I guess it all averages out ;-*
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Welcome Paul. I only had a problem with throttle control 2 up and the GT Throttle Tamer worked for me.
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No miles eh?
Ooops! That's my first error >:()
Not an error at all. We're bilingual- the Yanks still haven't caught up with metric measures either.
Welcome to the forum.
The oil filter does not need to be torqued up. It is on a very long, fine thread and will not vibrate loose. The recommended technique is to spin it on until the (lightly lubricated) rubber seal seats, then turn it an additional half turn. You can do that by hand! Then you might need a tool to grip it to get it off, and there are various grips using metal bands for that.
I've owned four ST1300s and not had a problem with throttle control. Maybe I just think the degree of sensitivity is normal. That said, among my STs I owned a Goldwing 1800 for 9 months and still have a V-Strom that I ride most days, so I am familiar with other throttles.
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Hi Paul & a Warm Welcome from the Wild West :hatwave :runyay
:grin :slvr13 :grin
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Welcome Paul, from a not so warm South Gippsland... :beer
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Hi from St Helena, VIC, and welcome to the Forum.
Hi Guys Pommie Paul here. Today is meant to be our hottest day (37 C) for 10 years. Cool by Oz standards I suspect.
... 37C is pretty hot in Oz, not pleasant riding conditions for most, although I have ridden in 45C on the morning of Black Saturday (before things turned BLACK) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Saturday_bushfires - that was very unpleasant.
... I still haven't mastered the sensitive throttle control. Some may say replicated my bad habits 50 times!
I've added a G2 Throttle Tamer (no improvement), replaced/lubed the cables and reduced the free-play to almost zero. Since raising the issue with the ST-Owners Forum my throttle control has definitely improved (but not perfect). However, over bumpy roads I find it almost impossible to maintain a steady throttle so any advice would certainly be appreciated. Grip Puppies arriving today. Do all ST1300s suffer from this throttle issue? I never had the issues on my FJR1300...
There's a thread somewhere on the Forum re. an ECU re-set (or something like that), someone will be along soon to post a link to it. Wait a little while for that, if know one posts it, it goes something like this:
- Disconnect battery, let it sit for a while - overnight works for me.
- Reconnect battery.
- Start engine, let it idle on auto-chock until engine warms up and idle returns to normal revs.
- Swithch engine off.
- Re-start engine and go for a ride.
I might not have covered every step or in the correct order, but no harm can come from this, just a bit of incovenience removing and replace side cover and battery terminal, and resetting the clock, and for me changing the fuel consumption display from km/l to l/100km.
Don't know the technicals behind this fix, but it works for me.
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G'day Old Paul, welcome to the forum :hatwave
The ECU reset Williamson is talking about is worth doing and can be found here: http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0)
As for the oil filter,
If you are having issues you can always try using the K&N oil filter as it has a nut on the back of the filter that makes it very easy to remove.
But as Biggles said it sounds like the filter was over tightened.
The torque setting of 23 Nm is for the oil sump plug/bolt not the filter :thumb
Cheers
Shiney
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Thought we could rely on you.
:thumbs
The ECU reset Williamson is talking about is worth doing and can be found here: [url]http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0[/url] ([url]http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0[/url])
But I get this message:
An Error Has Occurred!
The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you.
... As for the oil filter ...
I find one of these jiggies, a short socket extension and a socket drive is easier than scraping knuckles, swearing and cussing - but just with light use.
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Engines/dp/B00Y5JWW1W (https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Engines/dp/B00Y5JWW1W)
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But I get this message:
An Error Has Occurred!
The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you.
Worked for me...so, for your benefit, here's the bulk of Lonerider1's first post, Michael! :thumb
Resetting the ECU
Apparently as part of the prep before the dealer hands over the keys, the mechanic resets the ECU starts the bike and lets it idle for around 15 minutes until the fan cuts in. In the 15 minutes the ECU creates a base map using all the info gathered from the O2, water temperature and possibly other sensors.
Smoother throttle response, pulls from much lower in the rev band in all gears and 6th is much more usable. Also seems to sound better.
This is what I did.
1.Completely disconnected the battery for 24h (my reading sources state 10 minutes to half an hour) I wanted to me sure.
2.Turn the key to on to get rid of any held power for about 30 seconds (probable not needed).
3.Reconnect Battery (make sure all other electrics are off)
4.Turn key to on
5.Start bike without touching the throttle.
6.Leave to idle (DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) for around 15 minutes until the fan kicks in (mine took 16 minutes).
7.Hit the kill switch.
8.Turn off the ignition.
9.Now you’re done.
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I do a similar thing with the ECU on my i30 diesel every now and then.
I find half an hour with the battery disconnected is all you need for it so would assume it would be similar for the ST.
I've been questioning my ST's higher than expected fuel consumption for some time now so perhaps I might just give the ECU reset a go.
Thanks for bringing the ECU "fix" to our attention, Michael! :thumbs :beer
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Welcome Paul from Brisbane.
My wife's Mum and Nan came from Sheffield in the 1950's.
I found the MC Cruise was really good for reducing throttle sensitivity... :grin
Cheers.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Worked for me...so, for your benefit, here's the bulk of Lonerider1's first post ...
Thanks Russ, I had the same response on Explorer, Chrome and my iPhone. Whisky Tanago Foxtrtot??? At least I have Forum access again.
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There's a thread somewhere on the Forum re. an ECU re-set (or something like that), someone will be along soon to post a link to it. Wait a little while for that, if know one posts it, it goes something like this:
- Disconnect battery, let it sit for a while - overnight works for me.
- Reconnect battery.
- Start engine, let it idle on auto-chock until engine warms up and idle returns to normal revs.
- Swithch engine off.
- Re-start engine and go for a ride.
When restarting after reconnecting the battery, I think you start the bike without touching the throttle then use the 'kill switch' to shut it down once the cooling fan kicks in. That is from memory from the original post Re: DCU Reset.
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Hi Pommie Paul, another welcome from Brisbane. We too would consider 37C to be uncomfortably hot, but it’s not record breaking for our climate, and these days most of our houses are air conditioned. But for the UK that really is extreme. I hope folks are not suffering too much.
Re the throttle, I assume you mean the rough fuelling that occurs at very light throttle openings. It is a commonly reported issue with the ST and also with a lot of other earlier design fuel injected bikes. Most owners have just learned to live with it. I have read that the FJR1300 received some mods in 2008/9 to address this issue.
The G2 helps by spreading out the first portion of the throttle control but doesn’t fix the underlying issue.
After doing the ECU reset, the next thing would be to get the throttle bodies properly synced. That may improve the issue to the point of being ‘good enough’.
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Thanks for all your "warm" greetings.
I seem to have strayed off the introductory topic, but I'll come back on a couple of points if I may.
I mentioned my oil filter was done up so tight I couldn't undo it from underneath the bike. I suggested it had been done up at the manufacturer's torque of 23Nm. I was wrong - Honda recommend 26Nm - see extract from service manual attached. This is also confirmed by the user manual and Haynes. Far too high as has been suggested.
I'll certainly give the ECU Mapping a go. I don't know if the Honda Averto Alarm was available in in OZ. My reason for asking is that the manual does not say if the alarm will sound if the battery leads are disconnected, even if in immobiliser only mode - any thoughts?
A general point - how do I reply with a quote from part or all of another member's comments?
Thanks again guys
Old Paul
PS fitted my Grip Puppies today and will see if they help with the vibration tomorrow.
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A general point - how do I reply with a quote from part or all of another member's comments?
Hi Paul, replying with a quote is quite easy, simply look at the top right hand side of the post you want to quote and click the "quote" button...
Once that has opened you can edit the part of the quote you want to use or leave it in its entirety...
Hopefully that helps! :thumbsup
Cheers :beer
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A general point - how do I reply with a quote from part or all of another member's comments?
Click on the "Quote" word at the top right of the post you want to cite. You can then edit out the bits you don't need, as I just did.
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Once that has opened you can edit the part of the quote you want to use or leave it in its entirety...
Hopefully that helps! :thumbsup
Cheers :beer
Snap
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:rofl
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"Quote" - Got it!
Thanks Guys
Paul
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Paul - Welcome from near Toowoomba Qld
Rgds
GB
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I'll certainly give the ECU Mapping a go. I don't know if the Honda Averto Alarm was available in in OZ. My reason for asking is that the manual does not say if the alarm will sound if the battery leads are disconnected, even if in immobiliser only mode - any thoughts?
I'm thinking how would the alarm work if the battery was disconnected?. Don't know the alarm, I presume it would have a +ve and -ve wiring, perhaps just disconnect them. Hmmm ... has the alarm got an internal battery back-up? That could make it tricky. Even it did, it's something that you might need to get your head around before you need to do some other maintenance type work that prudence requires the battery to be disconnected.
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Hi Paul from Warwick QLD
Keeper of the OzStoc shop
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I'll certainly give the ECU Mapping a go. I don't know if the Honda Averto Alarm was available in in OZ. My reason for asking is that the manual does not say if the alarm will sound if the battery leads are disconnected, even if in immobiliser only mode - any thoughts?
I'm thinking how would the alarm work if the battery was disconnected?. Don't know the alarm, I presume it would have a +ve and -ve wiring, perhaps just disconnect them. Hmmm ... has the alarm got an internal battery back-up? That could make it tricky. Even it did, it's something that you might need to get your head around before you need to do some other maintenance type work that prudence requires the battery to be disconnected.
Aha - the manual says the alarm has a backup battery so that if fully set (not immobiliser mode only), it will sound if the bike battery terminals are tampered with. The alarm manual is silent on the matter if immobiliser only.
The good news is that I decided to carry out the ECU reset yesterday and disconnected the battery, but the alarm did not sound!
Incidentally, I had a Datatool Alarm on my FJR1300 and it was necessary to put it into maintenance mode before removing the terminals.
As regards the ECU reset, I had to take my car to the garage today for an air conditioning regas, and the ambient temperature is now far to high for me to go riding. Still at least I know the engine starts after the reset.
Paul