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Welcome - Getting started & FAQs - Read Here First... => Introduce Yourself & Your Bike => Topic started by: Simmo50 on March 05, 2017, 05:07:30 PM
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Hi all.just picked up a 2000 st1100p. I've had a few 1300st . It this is my first 1100.
Got the bike fairly cheap $3250 pretty good condition 89k.
Have a few issues that are annoying me.
Took to local I me shop and told them I wasn't happy with suspension. Front is wobbly, rear was skipping about a bit.
They changed fork oil, and another rear shock . Still have problem.
They are now saying change stem bearings. A little notch in centre position. To me it feels like the front suspension isn't right. Feels soft. Going to ask them what weight oil they put in. I've read police bikes should have 10wt. Not 5wt oil. Steering isn't planted in bends. Very vagued. Has anyone else had similar issues
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Check the tyre pressures
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I doubt if it's stem bearings as at 200,000 km my 1100A still has original ones. Had them checked when fork seals done 18 months ago.
Tyre pressure would be 1st port of call. 36F and 42R How old are the tyres and are they the right size. 110/80V18 Front 160/70V17 Rear though I think most fit the ZR rated tyre which more the A (ABS etc.) model
Rear shock - also has rebound adjustment which can be accessed via a little hole in the rear of the side panel. OEM Police shock is also different (maybe a stiffer spring rate) to the other models as the bike usually carries more gear than the other models.
Pre load adjustment might be set wrong as well -
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Check the tyre pressures
42 psi front and back :thumbsup
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Front is wobbly...They are now saying change stem bearings
They are almost certainly right and its the first thing that ought to have been checked, especially if the wobble you described occurs during decceleration or on a neutral throttle anywhere between 40-80kph.
If, your bike still has its recirculating ball and cup bearings, the top triple clamp is removed and the lower of the 2 castlelated nuts is torqued to 15ft/lbs (imperial measurement), the lock washer and upper castlelated nut returned and the triple clamp returned and torqued to 80ft/lbs. This, Honda reccomends should be a routine occurance.
If, your bike is fitted with tapered roller brgs. (many are, my own included), then the castlelated nut torque should be checked (anywhere from 5-~ft/lbs as this is up rider handling preferance), but only after the lower bearing cup has been inspected for load / usage indenting and if so, replaced.
Both brg types will cause their lower (load), cups to indent, tapered rollers more so than recirculating balls. The advantage of tapered rollers over recirculating ball brgs is improved handling, especially low speed turning for the ST1100 as they are bias to over-steer during low speed manouvers. And high speed stability at higher bank angles are improved considerably without steering damping on the ST1100. But as mentioned, adverse wear or rapid wear at higher torque settings above 5ft/lbs is the trade off for using tapered roller brgs.
Good luck n cheers, the can :-)
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That is very informative :like. Does the same apply to the 1300A?
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That is very informative...Does the same apply to the 1300A?
Thank You :-)
The short answer is, yes. Though I have no knowledge of the torque values for the 1300's.
I am of the understanding the steering head stem setup is the same as the 1100's, recirculating balls and cups. The geometry is unknown to me, so I dont know if the symptoms that loose, worn, or indented head stem brgs cups (or cones if tapered roller brgs in use), on the 1100 can be transposed to the 1300's.
What I can say, if routine checks and periodical adjustments are not made to the torque loadings, then the higher the probabilty of ball indenting of the lower load cup will occur and in all likelihood, become problematic.
Tapered roller brgs and cones are more prevalant to indentation than recirculating balls and cups in this setting if routine adjustments arent made, higher torque loadings are used, greater load weights are used, or harder riding are noted. Also, brg quality can effect longivity.
I believe engine-to-frame torque setup and torque settings are more critical with the 1300's.
Hope that helps, cheers the can :-)
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Welcome On In Simmo50 :clap