OzSTOC
No Parking Zone! => Off Topic, Off Colour, and non-motorcycle related => Topic started by: alans1100 on February 12, 2018, 02:06:40 PM
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The brakes have been sounding a little noisy for quite awhile but no issues with brake.
Ordered Bendix pads ( https://www.bendix.com.au/content/bendix-brakes-general-ct (https://www.bendix.com.au/content/bendix-brakes-general-ct) ) a few weeks ago from here for a cost of $121.50 https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/ (https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/) and waiting for the weather to cool off a little.
I'm not sure how long the old pads had been in but after 7 years I guess they were due. I could move the calliper retaining bolts with the ratchet and socket tool so out with the torsion wrench for some extra leverage. A couple of hits on the handle by my hand and the bolt started to turn. The top RH one was a little easier than the bottom but opposite on the LH side.
RH pads out with the slightly more inner pad next to the new ones - Could have waited a little longer based on these two.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4607/25344731567_5e40b7a11b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnGt)1 RH Pads with old inner next to new ones (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnGt) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Managed to get both pistons pushed in - don't ask.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/25344731597_52010331a2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnGZ)2 RH Calliper Pistons Pushed In (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnGZ) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
RH out the way and the LH side was a little easier having learnt what to do on the other side.
Just in time as the inner pad (old LH inner is the last one on the right) was close to the pad wear limit - worse than the RH inner.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/25344730887_0de1c56fe3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnuK)3 LH Pads With Old Inner On RH Side. (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnuK) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
A little creativity in pushing the pistons in with the G clamp that I had on hand
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4724/26343190278_f5e85c0361_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8RJFQ)4 Adhoc Piston Pushing Tools (https://flic.kr/p/G8RJFQ) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
New pads in place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4671/25344731207_dbca47a413_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnAg)5 New Pads in LH Calliper (https://flic.kr/p/EBCnAg) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Once the callipers were replaced on the disc the hard issue was getting the holes to line up for the bolts. Top impossible unless bottom done first because that's how you would do it if the car was the hoist.
Both discs look ok for now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/26343189808_01cf2167aa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8RJxJ)6 LH Disc - Same Condition For RH (https://flic.kr/p/G8RJxJ) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
That's the front done - tomorrow the rear gets done unless the weather says otherwise.
Went for a test drive and the car still stops. Still some noise but only when I brake this time. See what happens when the rear is done.
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Decided to get the rear pads out of the way since I had time.
LH rear disc is the worst though acceptable for now. Definite machining or new discs on next pad change or earlier if necessary.
To check the hand brake shoes I (it has a drum brakes) would have need to remove the complete calliper before removing the disc/brake drum
A little easier than the front - RH rear calliper with piston pushed in
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/40220314231_1a4a5c5425_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24h8CaD)7 RH Calliper with piston pushed in. (https://flic.kr/p/24h8CaD) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Rear disc
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4751/25349504027_93d24c6248_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EC3Qog)8 RH Disc (https://flic.kr/p/EC3Qog) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
New Pads In Place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/25349503747_7715941092_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EC3Qir)11 New Pads In Place (https://flic.kr/p/EC3Qir) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Pad comparison as in calliper location on car. Rear pads about the same size as the STs only thicker pad material
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4715/40220313381_890cbe011a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24h8BUZ)12 Pad Comparison As on the Car (https://flic.kr/p/24h8BUZ) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Just need To push piston in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/40187705022_4ac12b8eb2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24efuzU)13 Ready Foe Piston To Be Pushed In. (https://flic.kr/p/24efuzU) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Easier than the front - 24mm socket inside piston to make it easier to push piston in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/40220313721_e202e0611e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24h8C1R)14 Easier Than The Front - 24mm Socket Fits In The Piston (https://flic.kr/p/24h8C1R) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
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I normally use an old pad to protect the piston.
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I normally use an old pad to protect the piston.
Same here but the only brakes I usually work on have only two wheel's, not 4 and only having one decent smaller than needed G clamp bought for something else meant a little thinking about.
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Well done Alan.
Very detailed write up.
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