OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Electrics & Electronics - Volts, Amps and Fuses ST1100 => Topic started by: BigTed on October 10, 2012, 03:48:19 PM
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Hi guys,
I want to install the well-known jumper lead connector under the seat via Anderson plug - a 50A (8AWG) cable (+ & -) direct to the battery terminals. I also want to put in a fuse box/relay for switched and direct power.
Is it appropriate (ie. safe!) to run the 50A cable from the battery to the Anderson plug under the seat, and in the same crimp in the connector, add in 30A strands (+ & -) to drive the fuse-box & relay (see sketch)?
ie. battery -> 50A wire -> Anderson plug -> 30A wire -> 30A fuse -> 30A wire -> fusebox/relay
This will provide power to the switched fuse-box, and also provide a connection point for the other Anderson plug for the jumpstart cable (aligators).
Also, in terms of best practices, is it appropiate to ground this directly to the -ve terminal of the battery? Or should it be run to the common ground point under the tank?
Cheers, Rob.
:blk13
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Rob,
I would run the ground direct to the battery. Why do you have a relay before the fuse box? I would think any relays will have a specific job and therefore their own fuse so relay needs to be after the fuse box. Wire size to the relay is than matched to its fuse and duty.
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Just thinking about the jump start bit, how many amps are needed to start the bike (ie starter motor)? If it's more than 50A you'll need a bigger wire from the battery. Cheap jumper leads are rated from 200amps, decent ones 600-800 amps.
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50 Amp leads are fine, (I havent measured the draw but the leads work) there is no problem using the lead as described Rob, I did that for Dave and my self.
I would say that the diagram is a very simplified switched/unswitched fusebox set up, and would work well.
As the cable for the jump lead is a heavy 50amp job, the use of the earth is fine, The idea is to stop the stacking of many connections on the battery.
Another way to do the same thing, would be to use another Anderson plug and simply plug in the fusebox system. Unplug to use the jumper leads, then plug in again when finished jumping. (dont plug in to a running bike but. If you were the jumper, shgut down and plug in the accessories and power up again. If you were unfortunate enough to be the jumpee, then go for a ride till the battery recharges, shut down plugin and start again.
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50 Amp leads are fine, (I havent measured the draw but the leads work) there is no problem using the lead as described Rob, I did that for Dave and my self.
I would say that the diagram is a very simplified switched/unswitched fusebox set up, and would work well.
As the cable for the jump lead is a heavy 50amp job, the use of the earth is fine, The idea is to stop the stacking of many connections on the battery.
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I'm not sure what the starter draws, but isn't main fuse-B (on top of the battery) a 60A fuse? So, it can't be more than that.
yes - it's a simple switched fuse box. I intend to switch 4, and have 2 permanently live.
This leads to my next question (says Rob as he points his post towards Brock again :p ).... from the relay I want to split it into 4 - I wanted to maintain 30A feed to each to the fuse box. The problem is - how do you join 5 x 30A cables without making it look butt-ugly. I've not found a suitable insulated bus-bar.
Brock, at the maintenance day I saw you'd used the same fuse box in Dave's beast, how did you do it?
R.
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Daves bike doest have a fuse box (yet) just a bunch of inline fuses, we will tidy that up a bit later.
Im not quite sure what you mean by 5 30 A wires, you may need to draw a simple diagram. Or I may knock up a quick general purpose circuit.
There is no real point in making up a lot of 30 amp lines, as the alternator is only capable of 40A max, any more total load than that will flatten the battery and stop the bike.
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Hi Brock, I have a single 30A line from the relay to split to each of the power lines of 4 spade connectors in the fuse box. While not all of them will carry 30A at once - prolly only 2 or 3 max - I thought I'd just use the same 30A line. So, ...
30A wire -> relay -> 30A wire -> 4 x 30A wire -> each to 1 spade on the fuse box.
My first mockup was just to strip all 5 wire and twist like buggery..... just a big ugly mess. I'd rather use some kind of busbar to split the one line from the relay to the 4 inputs to the fuse box.
Cheers, Rob.
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Rob, use a fuse block similar to Diesels, Busbars are a pain. You need to do things correctly first time, or bad connections can cause heat and major problems.
Here is a link to the diagram,Total of current in all 6 circuits not to exceed 30 amps.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7rrv0w1i34vpiaa/Fuseblock.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/7rrv0w1i34vpiaa/Fuseblock.jpg)
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Thanks Brock, I'll keep that in mind for the future.
:blu13
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Here is a ready made device
(http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/top-open-wired.jpg)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html)
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Now that is nice.
Looks very professional.
:blu13
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Looks very professional.
It should do, it is a comercial product by Easternbeaver
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Now that is SMART, might well look at one of these in the not too distant future!. Good find Brock!
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it is a comercial product by Easterbeaver
I'd like to see one of these.
With your birthday recently Brock, and that you are getting reverse younger, would you like a spell checker?
:rofl :blu13