OzSTOC
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: young one on May 24, 2013, 07:49:00 AM
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After a recent run to Mundubberra my cruise control was not working properly.
It would drop in and out or not engage at all.
After contacting MCC and them sending me the install procedure I discovered that when I had the last rear tyre fitted the "technician" had bent the bracket that holds the sensor on the rear wheel so that the gap between the sensor and magnets was more than specified.
When corrected everything works very well.
See below.
MotorCycle Cruise - Honda ST1300 & ST1300A
15
Speed sensor gap adjustment
· Use a 3mm (1/8”) twist drill or other suitable device to check the gap
between the face of the speed sensor and the magnets. The gap should
be around 3~4mm. Bend the sensor bracket as required to achieve the
correct gap.
NOTE: - The sensor gap must be kept under 4mm to ensure that the cruise control will operate at low
speeds. If the cruise control will not operate at lower speeds (50 kph or 30 mph) check and reduce the
sensor gap. Do not reduce the gap to less than 1.5mm (1/16”).
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Thanks for sharing mate. :thumbs
Cheers, Diesel
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The sensor gap can get too big if the bracket is knocked when changing tyres (the sensor needs to be removed to create enough clearance, at least on the ST11.
On older McCruises the solenoid can gum up, but just needs some cleaning. The one I have has had about 10 years of use and only played up late last year. Mc will send the instructions through on how to clean the solenoid, but I have the instructions here if anyone needs them. I also found a random electrical fault somewhere in the main harness. It works now after rerouting the harness but have to have a proper look someday.
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I'm still surprised these guys are still supplying magnets on the rear wheel for the speed sensing rather than hook into tacho or coil or in the case of the 1300 into the bikes speed sensor.
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Tapping in to the coil/tacho isnt a good idea for most people, as it would be easy to damage the connections, and for some, difficult to find the fault.
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They use magnets and also tap into the coil, that is the most difficult part of the install.
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Do the magnets fit in the bolts holding the rear disc on?
:wht11
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On the "11" and "13" magnets are used for reliable speed sensing, the coil connection is used for referance against speed to detect sudden speed increase (wheel spin from wet/slippy or fallen over).
GTR1400 (amongst others) has a relaitevly easy accesible speedo signal that can actually be used as an input, so magnets arent used for speed, there is still coil connection for above reason :thumb
And yes the magnets go in the bolt holes for the disk, supplied 2 spare magnets for removing the installed ones if needed and in csae one gets "lost"
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If anyone needs the full installation and fault finding instructions I have then in PDF form and can email them.just let me know your email address.
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If you are going to install on 1100, do not replace the fuel tank when the instructions say, wait until you have connected the throttle cable.
Both STRay and myself replaced and then had to remove the tank for this procedure.
I don't know if this applies to the 1300.
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I'm still surprised these guys are still supplying magnets on the rear wheel for the speed sensing rather than hook into tacho or coil or in the case of the 1300 into the bikes speed sensor.
I was a little curious on this but I found an answer from http://www.autron.com.au/pages/Auscruise/Vacuum.php (http://www.autron.com.au/pages/Auscruise/Vacuum.php) I had one of these fitted on my previous car. Faultless in seven years.
"ECU Speed signal pickup
Over-Rev (Tacho) input.
On older Carburettor vehicles with Optional Magnetic Speed pickup or using Tacho speed sensing (Tacho speed sensing only recommended on manual vehicles)"
It seems speed sensing from Tacho is the way they prefer to do it on manuals and magnets on the drive shaft for automatics and ECU on EFI