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Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: Yorkie on November 12, 2013, 01:05:31 PM
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Not sure where to put this, the gods can move it should they feel the need.
While doing some work with the ST on the centre stand, running at a fast idle I noticed this on the shed floor.
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive001_zpsd8ab1a21.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive001_zpsd8ab1a21.jpg.html)
Didn't look right so I removed the rear wheel and drive shaft to find splines virtually non existant. After consulting the maintenance book it appears these are supposed to be greased, don't think mine have been done since original build 13 years ago. Also found moisture inside the drive shaft, not sure if it is only condensation.
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive002_zpsc0ead2f3.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive002_zpsc0ead2f3.jpg.html)
This is end of drive shaft.
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive003_zps177ab01f.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive003_zps177ab01f.jpg.html)
This is spline to wheel.
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive004_zps1d8d6241.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive004_zps1d8d6241.jpg.html)
This is final drive on the wheel.
Jumped onto parts suppliers in US and UK for prices, came in at around US$609 plus freight.
Rang Chris at the Hondashop and gave him list of numbers, asked for best price, retail is $915, my price is $654, so they got the order.
Gear set is ex Japan so a couple of weeks wait however it is not in stock in US or UK so had to go on back order.
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That is not good. I have seen some worn splines like that, and they seem to still work ok. The ones I have seen that bad were supposedly maintained by a tyre specialist but they were really dry, as if no grease of any sort was used.
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:fp I have Moly60 if you need some. :grin I assume the last picture is the five finger drive that fits into the cush rubbers. :think1
:wht11
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The last time I changed my rear tyre I noticed my splines in a similar condition. It still drives ok but I ordered another drive unit which is now on it's way.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370933277278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370933277278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
I noticed my splines were dry the first time I pulled my rear wheel off but since then I've done the last three changes and greased as well. Maybe to late to have made much difference in the end.
I still need to get the drive flange and, o-rings and oils seals. I will also need to swap over the gear case cover from mine as it has the ABS sensor mount on it.
Yorkie, I notice you've taken the gear cover off as in your picture, how easy was it as there's not much info about this in the Honda manual?
(http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg528/WAYorkie/FinalDrive003_zps177ab01f.jpg) (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/FinalDrive003_zps177ab01f.jpg.html)
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Alan it is quite easy a dust cover is held on with one bolt, once this is removed the cover needs to be rotated about 10 degrees and then lifts off.
The cover plate under that has 6x8mm bolts and 2x10mm to be removed and then lift the cover off, I had to use a screwdriver to loosen it.
The final drive gear with spline is supplied with new gear for end of drive shaft.
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Evenin' Brian et at...
I needed to replaced the crown wheel, pinion and coupling on my 2nd ABS bike few years back (was second hand and l bought it worn out). They're not too difficult to change over. Remeber to take a good look at the land the coupling rests on the wheel.
If the 'O' ring groove on the wheel has any semblence of having it's groove insitu, you may well be able to shim the coupling to the wheel AFTER you have fettled the damage to the wheel. I took some time doing this in order to preserve its circumfrence.
I shimmed the coupling with all the drive cushings removed from the wheel (replaced all cushings and centres with new components), in order to centre the coupling (& therefore the final drive to the centre of the wheel so that it is the combination of coupling ON the wheel to form a 'hub' to carry the weight and NOT the cushings.
I found that a small lenght of steel strapping that is used to go around loaded pallets worked well as a shim...l think it's about .5mm from memory. But it IS important that the weight of the coupling is taken on this 'land' otherwise you'll be back at square one very soon as the cushings wont go the distance. Also if, like mine your bike has ABS etc and the weight is solely on the cushings, you may well find that the ABC / TCS sensor will rub on the sensor ring, causing further grief you could do without.
Yes, you lose the 'O' ring on the land. But as the rear tyre will in all likelihood need replacing every 15 to 17 km, a grease like Morey's will last the distance.
Lastly, remember to re-centre the final drive before taking the first test ride... There are threads elsewhere on how to do this.
Good luck with it.
Ciao the can :-)
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t still drives ok but I ordered another drive unit which is now on it's way.
[url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370933277278?[/url]
([url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370933277278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649[/url])
My used final drive arrived today and it's as the pictures show in the E-bay link and cost $340 delivered. Now I just need to save a few more pennies to get the rest.