OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: kappy5003 on July 21, 2014, 10:32:55 AM
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I'm looking for a little advise on plastic welding,please.
While all the tupperware was off, I have to misfortune to have a little domino affect that resulted in some cracks to the left and right hand upper fairing plus the right hand dash pocket.
I went to my locate panel beater and he wasn't very encouraging about plastic welding the plastic.
Anyway I experimented on the dash pocket as there pieces broken, I got out my soldering iron and did a little melting. Anyway its all back together but I don't know actually how strong it is, it's not complete.
Can any one enlightened me as I dont really wont to shell out for new bit and all the wreckers I contacted they are the bit that get broken 1st.
While we're on the subject has anyone had any experience with the following product..
http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=59&zenid=c27752061bd2749a0c85c5cfe664cba0 (http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=59&zenid=c27752061bd2749a0c85c5cfe664cba0)
The maker has high claims.
Cheers
Kappy
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Great product Kappy, I've used it a couple of times welding metal to plastic and it sets really well, I'd certainly recommend it!! :thumbs
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:dred11
Kappy I have done a bit of plaSTic welding to STranger, I found I had to use a filler plaSTic as the fairing plaSTic shrunk after heating. I used a white plaSTic tablecloth clip and melted this onto where I wanted to weld then melted the fairing plaSTic and mixed them together Also a handy hint to STrenghten across the weld I melted panel pin nails into the plaSTic juST using solder iron , make sure you push them deep enough,,,
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/20140613_125340_zpskr9my8pk.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/20140613_125340_zpskr9my8pk.jpg.html)
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/20140613_125407_zpsfilfizul.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/20140613_125407_zpsfilfizul.jpg.html)
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/20140613_143552_zpsmtbetbyr.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/20140613_143552_zpsmtbetbyr.jpg.html)
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/20140703_021613_zps9yjahoii.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/20140703_021613_zps9yjahoii.jpg.html)
I didnt spend enough time sanding to 1 day I'll sand it again.
hope this helps you Kappy :thumb
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It mixes quite easily, but is a bit more "runny" than I would prefer, although that makes it easier to get into crevices. A similar product that comes in sticks is Selleys Kneadit. You cut off the size you want and knead it to make a homogeneous grey paste which sticks very well and sets like stone in about 10 minutes. JBWeld is black/ dark grey and takes about a day to reach maximum hardness, which can be helpful when you're trying to get everything the way you want it before if "goes off".
Both resist heat and can be drilled and tapped and act as an ideal filler, especially the Kneadit.
The original epoxy, Araldite, has its merits, but I've found you have to be quite precise with your measurements or it doesn't set.
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Hmmm....I never found it to be "runny", I found it to be very workable, and yes it takes about 24 hours to reach maximum hardness, but then it's really very hard!!!
I haven't tried the Selleys product (never had a need to) so I can't comment on it! :grin
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Hmmm....I never found it to be "runny", I found it to be very workable, and yes it takes about 24 hours to reach maximum hardness, but then it's really very hard!!!
It's more fluid than Kneadit which behaves like a stiff dough.
I haven't tried the Selleys product (never had a need to) so I can't comment on it! :grin
You know you Kneadit. :p
Like dough, Uno.
With JB, I find it has a very willing "tack" behaviour whereas the Kneadit responds to "grinding" it into both surfaces after which it bonds very strongly.
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I would imagine the Kneadit would be the better product for repair work then as you'd need it to have a certain amount of stiffness, but hopefully I'll never need to use it under those circumstances!!
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Which panels do you need?, I have a few spares
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Thanks guys,all that was really helpful.
The local panel beater has little clip thingy's that they attache to a heating apparatus then they put push into plastic to give strength, then cut of the the bit sticking out then fill any cracks with bog.
Similar to the panel pin trick I would never have thought of it thanks.
Yorkie I broke the right hand dash pocket and the right and left front panel , the one where the mirrors attach.
I have a few little stress cracks that I'll have a go at. So I'll get some of the JB's as well.
Got my coolant today, so getting closer to getting back on the road.
Cheers
Kappy
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Yorkie I broke the right hand dash pocket and the right and left front panel , the one where the mirrors attach.
I have a dash pocket panel and left and right front panels.
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Have done more than my fair share of plastic repairs using a soldering iron. The plastic is ABS plastic and any filler has to be ABS plastic as it wont mould together. It takes a bit of practice to come up with a good result, especially the thinner panels as they tend to distort badly. Need to spread the repair along the crack to allow cooling and not too much localised heat. You can get a good result with practice.
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Yorkie I broke the right hand dash pocket and the right and left front panel , the one where the mirrors attach.
I have a dash pocket panel and left and right front panels.
Thanks Yorkie any chance of a few pics and what do you want for them.
Cheers
Kappy
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Hey all, not sure if you can still get it but a few years back I bought some plastic welding sticks that we're made by Makita.
If I remember rightly I think the best temp for plastic welding was around 300C but no hotter.
Hope this is of some help.
Tom.
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These are what I have, green was white and have been painted, my number is 0418937173
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000081_zps9962b453.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000081_zps9962b453.jpg.html)
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000082_zps07118e0f.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000082_zps07118e0f.jpg.html)
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000084_zpsc7939aac.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000084_zpsc7939aac.jpg.html)
http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000083_zps75c39cd5.jpg.html (http://s1242.photobucket.com/user/WAYorkie/media/P1000083_zps75c39cd5.jpg.html)
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http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Honda-ST1300-ST-1300-Red-Full-Set-Injection-ABS-Plastic-Fairing-Body-Work/1664720175.html
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[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Honda-ST1300-ST-1300-Red-Full-Set-Injection-ABS-Plastic-Fairing-Body-Work/1664720175.html[/url] ([url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Honda-ST1300-ST-1300-Red-Full-Set-Injection-ABS-Plastic-Fairing-Body-Work/1664720175.html[/url])
Pity there's not one for St1100.
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On ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400512579827
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St1100 fairing parts list
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/fairing.htm
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If any one needs one, I have a free 64260-MAJ-G00ZA RH grey cover available, I ordered the non-police part, the police bikes take a larger cover.
Free to a good home, just pay the freight. PM me