OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Ask A Tech about your Honda ST1300 => Topic started by: Gavo on July 30, 2014, 11:16:07 PM
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I have mostly lubricated the carbon face seal when assembling compressors and alike
My question and im probably answering it myself is
Being the water pump do I still need to lubricate seal or will the coolant do the job
Was thinking of using a water proof type of grease
Manual doesn't mention this.
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I have used waterproof grease before and have not had any problems.
Interested to see the correct answer :popcorn
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Googled after post and most water pump repairs auto ect indicate put together dry
The coolant, has the stuff in it to keep seal from wearing out, Me thinks that's probably why you need to do regular coolant changes. And the right stuff recommended re silicates and stuff
I still will use some water proof grease just for the initial refill and start.
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I use Nulon L90, extreme pressure anti-seize lubricant.
Its is a betone based paste containing a high percentage of Polytretafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Read this link and your questions may be answered:-
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Specialty_Products/Extreme_Pressure_Anti-Seize_Lubricant/#.U9naZUAXLzI (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Specialty_Products/Extreme_Pressure_Anti-Seize_Lubricant/#.U9naZUAXLzI)
Hope this helps you.
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Have spoken to a few motorcycle race mechanics and they've all said the same thing. Just a smear of undiluted dish washing liquid.l.ve used it .Never a problem
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Are we talking about a typical mechanical pump seal here? The type which has a lapped ceramic face running on a carbon face?? If so you shouldn't touch them, not even a finger print.
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Are we talking about a typical mechanical pump seal here? The type which has a lapped ceramic face running on a carbon face?? If so you shouldn't touch them, not even a finger print.
I used surgical rubber gloves while handling
Are you being facetious or thorough?
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thorough?
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The answer to your question is no... No lubricant is required for the mechanical seal... in fact you should never touch the surfaces of either side... one side (the black side) is carbon, and the other side is ceramic... you can use a thin oil on the impeller shaft to make it slide through the bearing easier, but otherwise no lubricant is necessary...
Sass
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you can use a thin oil on the impeller shaft to make it slide through the bearing easie
You can also pop the impeller in the deep freeze for a while, this causes the shaft diameter to become slightly smaller, so it will fit into the bearing easier (old trick used in RAAF days instead of using Hyd press) got to be quick but as it warms and expands quickly.
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You can also pop the impeller in the deep freeze for a while, this causes the shaft diameter to become slightly smaller, so it will fit into the bearing easier (old trick used in RAAF days instead of using Hyd press) got to be quick but as it warms and expands quickly.
Yes, that is also good advice Brock, I have done that on many occasions... but I also use an hydraulic press, it's the only way to ease it in gently without damaging anything...