OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: johnnyYTED on August 21, 2014, 09:56:53 AM
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:dred11
recently when changing my alternator, it was suggested I check the cush rubbers and inserts. after inspection I found that they appeared to worn so I ordered the parts from Partzilla. the parts arrived and I went over to Abe's to deliver his parts we added to the order, to fit the cush rubbers and alloys.
I removed the rear wheel and then removed the plate to reveal the rubbers.4 of which were worn and loose in there position,quite a lot of movement
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/001_zpsc539ca11.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/001_zpsc539ca11.jpg.html)
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/003_zps077d7220.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/003_zps077d7220.jpg.html)
the inside face where the rubbers sit was also worn and had a lot of rubber and alloy duST caked on
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/007_zps0ca16d07.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/007_zps0ca16d07.jpg.html)
so it was give a good scrub and scrapping to remove it all
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/013_zps46434fec.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/013_zps46434fec.jpg.html)
under the watchfull eye of our supervisor TC
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/014_zpse779138a.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/014_zpse779138a.jpg.html)
you can see the wear on the rim now in this pic,
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/015_zps999dbbf4.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/015_zps999dbbf4.jpg.html)
next was to put the alloy thingys into the rubber with out causing to much STress on the rubbers, if you look you will see that one side the rubber wall is thinner so its that side you need to put the alloy peice on firST then push downwards and sideways to get the alloys in, making sure you seat them in fully.a little silicone spray helps.Then place them into the recess in the rim and you will then need to make sure they seat down completely. A gentle tap with a plaSTic mallet will do the job. then making sure you have the cover plate the right way, it is marked 'OUTSIDE" to make sure its correct. It wont go on if its the wrong way because the edges are bevelled to slide into the grooves.
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/741d9c63-9e82-40df-b7e7-95667ebf049c_zps0d2e3288.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/741d9c63-9e82-40df-b7e7-95667ebf049c_zps0d2e3288.jpg.html)
also there are arrows marking the alignment place it down and slide the locators to the next arrow and you will see the bolt holes line up. the hex bolts need to be tensions to 20 Nm when doing them up and a little drop of loctite used.
all together and looking good.
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/020_zps0f813204.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/020_zps0f813204.jpg.html)
we also changed the 3 'O' rings in the drive, as you can see one was flat compared to the new one
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/009_zps79fa0a25.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/009_zps79fa0a25.jpg.html)
and one had split. this is the three old ones
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/ST1100%20PICS/017_zps50a3536e.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/ST1100%20PICS/017_zps50a3536e.jpg.html)
we greased up the splines and put everything back together and when I rode home I could definitely feel the difference as there was no lag in take off, it became responsive as soon as I twiSTed the throttle where=as B4 there was a slight jolt when taking up the slack from the worn Cush rudders and elongated holes in the alloy inserts.
A big thanks to Abe for your knowledge and help doing this,, muchly appreciated ++ :clap
for those of you looking to get these parts to do your STeed.
Thank you for your recent order at Partzilla.com! Your order summary is below.
Order #: 81005450
Date Ordered: 07/19/2014
Payment Method: PAYPAL
Priority International Mail
https://www.partzilla.com/ (https://www.partzilla.com/)
41241-MT3-003 RUBBER, RR. (American Honda) $11.74 X5 $58.70 USD
41242-MR5-000 PIECE, DAMPER WHEEL (American Honda) $9.18 X5 $45.90 USD
Shipping & Handling: $49.99 USD
conversion rate on day of sale .9047 = $159.85 Aussie $$$..
:think1 from memory Campbelltown Honda STealer quoted $198.. for the parts so I went to USA
Abe also added 10 parts for his ST1300 and total order came in juST under the next postage increase so $$ saved for us both. :thumbs
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Good clear instructions. Thanks JohnnyYTED. :thumb
How many kilometers has your bike got on it?
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Good jobs chaps....... :-++
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This is on my to do list so thanks for the write up.
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Good clear instructions. Thanks JohnnyYTED. :thumb
How many kilometers has your bike got on it?
:dred11 :dred11
(http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy22/Johnny_Whitehead/20140821_173150_zpsjizvw6y3.jpg) (http://s774.photobucket.com/user/Johnny_Whitehead/media/20140821_173150_zpsjizvw6y3.jpg.html)
:grin :grin :grin :thumb
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Johnny, you need to change 20 psi to 20 Nm for photo seven :thumb
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And isn't that BC that is supervising your work :grin
Pockey ;-*
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Johnny, you need to change 20 psi to 20 Nm for photo seven :thumb
:dred11
thanks Abe Done,,,, :fp :thumb
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And isn't that BC that is supervising your work :grin
Pockey ;-*
:think1 Abe? B or T -C ;-*
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That's BC :wink1 your right again Pockey :thumb
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So are the 3 O'rings bought as a kit or individually ?? I recall 2 of 3 fit the 1300 as well :think
:beer
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:dred11
ST2UP they were part of a bag Abe had, there is 3 sets per bag,,, :think1 is what he said, and 2 for the ST13
i think I heard
:thumbs
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Awesome work guys :clap :clap :clap :runyay :thumbsup
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:dred11
for those of you looking to get these parts to do your STeed.
Thank you for your recent order at Partzilla.com! Your order summary is below.
Order #: 81005450
Date Ordered: 07/19/2014
Payment Method: PAYPAL
Priority International Mail
https://www.partzilla.com/ (https://www.partzilla.com/)
41241-MT3-003 RUBBER, RR. (American Honda) $11.74 X5 $58.70 USD
41242-MR5-000 PIECE, DAMPER WHEEL (American Honda) $9.18 X5 $45.90 USD
Shipping & Handling: $49.99 USD
conversion rate on day of sale .9047 = $159.85 Aussie $$$..
:think1 from memory Campbelltown Honda STealer quoted $198.. for the parts so I went to USA
Abe also added 10 parts for his ST1300 and total order came in juST under the next postage increase so $$ saved for us both. :thumbs
edited top poST to include this info..
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How long from order to arrive at your door Johnny?
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How long from order to arrive at your door Johnny?
:dred11
STroppy order taken on 19/7/2014, a few of Abe's parts had back order on them which held up the delivery being packed.
Product & Tracking Information
Postal Product:
Priority Mail International Parcels Features: International Parcels
July 24, 2014 , 7:04 pm Accepted at USPS Origin Sort Facility ALBANY, GA 31721
August 15, 2014 , 9:33 am Delivered AUSTRALIA
all in all not bad
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A month is faster than getting the bits from Sydney
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A month is faster than getting the bits from Sydney
:dred11
a dollar saved is a dollar earned,,, :butt well thats it for me,on a DSP. the parts needed weren't keeping me from riding so the wait was acceptable :grin ,,, if I was off the road :think1 I probably would have gone to the local STealer :OldMan and ate less :EatCake :crackup
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My recommendation is to change the cush rubbers and inserts also 'O' rings every rear tyre change and lube with moly grease.
Looking at the pics of your wheel you already have wear in the on the surface where the 'O' ring sits, I had to shim with .5mm metal strapping, total wear was 1mm.
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Every tyre change you say Yorkie? I think mine were originals and Ive put 125k since owning STranger for 6 1/2 yrs.
Every trye change juST aint gunna happen. Sorry not on my budget,
what does the manual recommend?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2
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I think you should at least rotate the ali bushes 180 degrees maintaining less movement. When I did mine I am sure the PY STeads had different numbers for the rubbers but I could be wrong. Great write up and a reminder to do mine since I have just replaced my rear with the gold plated and diamond encrusted rubber band.
:wht11
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JohnnyYTED... If U haven't already thrown those slightly worn "alloy thingys" out with the trash...may I have them?
Cheers the can :-)
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JohnnyYTED... If U haven't already thrown those slightly worn "alloy thingys" out with the trash...may I have them?
Cheers the can :-)
:dred11
sorry Greencan I didnt intend to throw em out, I saw another way to use them on something else I'm doing,,, not ST related though, but will work a treat and :think1 make that job much better with ST bits included :grin
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sorry Greencan I didnt intend to throw em out, I saw another way to use them on something else I'm doing,,, not ST related though, but will work a treat and :think1 make that job much better with ST bits included :grin
...Huummmm...would seem my cunning plan has been rumbled :'(
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Every tyre change you say Yorkie? I think mine were originals and Ive put 125k since owning STranger for 6 1/2 yrs.
Every trye change juST aint gunna happen. Sorry not on my budget,
what does the manual recommend?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2
Mine had only done 65k and I had to replace the rear wheel, is a lot cheaper to replace cush rubbers and ali bits.
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I was working on my rear wheel the other day and checked my cush rubbers again. They looked fine yet one obviously had worn enough that the aluminium insert was starting to touch the rim. So I ordered 2 sets of cush rubbers. The part number for the standard ST's is for a kit of 5 rubbers. The part number for the Police is for a single rubber. That I think explains the difference in the part numbers. Buying Police rubbers as units is way more expensive than buying the kit of 5. I paid just under AUD $55.00 for each set from my local Honda shop.
The old were quite loose. I cleaned up the rim changed my wheel bearings and put my new cush rubbers in place. I was very surprized at just how much tighter the new rubbers are. I think Yorkie was really close to spot-on when he considers changing perhaps every tyre change. If only we could purchase them at a better price.
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I was working on my rear wheel the other day and checked my cush rubbers again. They looked fine yet one obviously had worn enough that the aluminium insert was starting to touch the rim. So I ordered 2 sets of cush rubbers. The part number for the standard ST,s is for a kit of 5 rubbers. The part number for the Police is for a single rubber. That I think explains the difference in the part numbers. Buying Police rubbers as units is way more expensive than buying the kit of 5. I paid just under AUD $55.00 for each set from my local Honda shop.
I ordered the rubbers, inserts and new screws plus a couple thrust washers for mine a couple weeks ago. They're were at the dealer a couple days ago and total cost was around $120/130 so we're going to Port Augusta on Thursday.
They're also one of the few items that I've seen cheaper locally than the US after postage was included. The US only supplies the rubbers as a single item whereas the UK and over here you can buy a set.