OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Assassin on September 05, 2014, 02:17:39 PM
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This may or mayn't be for the feint hearted :)
So, I measured all of my valve clearances yesterday and they were all within specification, fortunately. So the tutorial here is just on how to measure the clearances, and not actually changing the shims.... I hope you find it useful...
Firstly, I made this chart below, which I use to record the clearances, also the shim that comes out, and the shim that goes in...
Click on any of the photos below for a larger view...
From the manual...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/15143596962_bb69ee39dd_o.jpg)
The chart I use to record the measured clearances...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14957284089_3105522997_o.jpg)
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that looks very helpful
thank you
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The manual says, 'Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, align the "T1" mark on the ignition pulse generator rotor with the index mark on the front of the crankcase cover.
But to do this you need a good mirror and lots of light !! the two covers are just below the radiator on the front of the engine (you do not need to remove the radiator)... (Assuming that all the fairings and the cylinder head covers have been removed....), you will need a 10mm and an 8mm allen key to remove the caps... ask your good wife or girlfriend to hold the mirror, which she will probably be good at :), and rotate the crank shaft using a 17mm socket and ratchet... (*note: I prefer using single-hex sockets to double-hex, much less chance of slipping and rounding off nuts and bolts...)
Also remember to remove the spark plugs, as it makes it much easier to turn the crank...
rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise and look for the "T1" mark...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14957400709_6467977574_o.jpg)
At the same time make sure that the cam shaft lobes are pointing UP on the number 1 cylinder (front left), as per the photo below...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15141083831_34a4a23677_o.jpg)
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Unfortunately, when the Index marks (T1 & T2) are aligned with the pointer in the hole, the lines on the camshaft sprockets do not align perfectly with the cylinder head. My preference is to align the lines on the sprockets perfectly with the cylinder head rather than have the T1 or T2 marks perfectly aligned with the pointer... The reason they do not line up perfectly is cam chain wear or stretch over a period of time. As your mileage increases, the cam chain stretches, so the lines on the sprockets will move further and further out as well, resulting in retarded valve timing and a noisy engine... not sure if this makes any sense to you, if not, please let me know and I will try to explain it a little further...
For the No.1 Cylinder.
Align these scribed lines perfectly with the cylinder head... This is the Exhaust cam which are on the outside of the cylinder heads on both sides...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/15141083911_b94e7776f8_o.jpg)
This the Inlet cam which are located on the opposite sides of the Exhaust cams, and closest to the throttle bodies....
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14957363899_99ddb17b2d_o.jpg)
Using the "T1" index mark for Cylinder 1 & 3, and "T2" for cylinders 2 & 4.... They don't have to be perfectly aligned, as long as the camshaft sprockets are aligned perfectly with the head, as in the photo above...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/14957492787_e643264c71_o.jpg)
Using a good feeler gauge, measure between the bottom of the cam lobe and the top of the shim bucket... Exhaust: 0.25 +/- 0.03mm Inlet: 0.16 +/- 0.03mm. Some people use 'inches' to measure clearances, but since all the shims are made and stamped in metric, it makes sense to measure in metric too.... easier to calculate the required replacement shim...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/15143675192_1914b3171e_o.jpg)
Remember there are 2 exhaust and 2 inlets valves...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/15144048815_34032826aa_o.jpg)
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Measuring the No.4 cylinder, which is the R/H rear (must be done next after cylinder 1)
After measuring and recording the valve clearances for the No.1 cylinder (remember there are 4 valves per cylinder, you should have 4 measurements), turn the crankshaft counterclockwise a 1/4 (90 degrees) counter clockwise to align the "T2" mark....
Make sure the cam lobes are facing away, exactly as in the photo below.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/15121049146_d0cc97d898_o.jpg)
Making sure that the lines in the cam sprockets align perfectly with the head, even though the crankshaft index marks may not...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3877/15141082971_e91d4b0ab6_o.jpg)
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Measuring Cylinder No.3 L/H Rear
After measuring cylinder No.4, turn the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise to align the "T1" index mark with the pointer.
Make sure the cam lobes on the rear R/H cylinder are pointing upward exactly as in this photo...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14957855479_fa986e0538_o.jpg)
And align the lines on the sprockets exactly as in the photo below, then measure and record the clearances....
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/15144048285_81f866d46c_o.jpg)
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Measuring No.2 cylinder (R/H front)
Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees or 1/4 turn until the "T2" is aligned with the pointer. At this point you can relive your wife or girlfriend of her duty of holding the mirror. Don't forget to say thank you !! or she may not help you again in the future... but ask her to make you a cup of coffee while you finish your measuring.... :) thirsty business this :)
Make sure the camshaft sprockets are exactly aligned with the cylinder head, exactly as per this photo.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5569/15143673042_cf9a3c328d_o.jpg)
With the cam lobes facing outward.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/15143671832_0435e9fa03_o.jpg)
See the measuring point below...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/14958148257_4682e44758_o.jpg)
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Great topic and Assassin, and I applaud your photography. Sharp, with the subject in focus, and with great lighting, as it should be. :thumb
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Great topic and Assassin, and I applaud your photography. Sharp, with the subject in focus, and with great lighting, as it should be. :thumb
Many thanks mate... A few more pictures to go still....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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Good writeup. Honda has put so many reference marks that anyone should be able to do this by following the above procedures.
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Good writeup. Honda has put so many reference marks that anyone should be able to do this by following the above procedures.
Honda have done this so they can use the same cam sprockets on both left and right cylinders, a cost saving measure... so the instructions are critical !!
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Before replace the cover, make sure the surfaces of the gasket and the cylinder head are free of oil. They must be perfectly dry in order to attain a perfect seal... I use plain old Acetone which available from Bunnings....
Use ThreeBond 1207B in the half moons, and about 10mm either side, exactly as per the photo.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14966351358_725f6763d3_o.jpg)
Replace the cylinder head cover and wipe off the excess...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3862/14966352627_61c3b0ff88_o.jpg)
ThreeBond 1207B - the best silicone based sealer and recommended for motorcycle engines....
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/15152594082_9969bb4561_o.jpg)
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That is an excellent write up and the photos are great.
Thanks for taking the time and putting the effort in, this is a job that I will have to do some time soon and those instructions will be of great help.
Cheers, winston66, Northampton, Western Australia
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That is an excellent write up and the photos are great.
Thanks for taking the time and putting the effort in, this is a job that I will have to do some time soon and those instructions will be of great help.
Cheers, winston66, Northampton, Western Australia
Thank you Winston66, I have tried to make these instructions as simple as possible, I hope I have succeeded in doing so...
Kind Regards, Sass.
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Awesome how to Sass, thanks for sharing mate :hatwave