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Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: kappy5003 on September 10, 2014, 03:49:33 PM
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Now I have searched several forums and have failed find an answer. o:)
Can anyone advise an easy way of draining an ST1100 fuel tank, apart from removing tank and/or siphoning. :H
Many Thanks in advance. :like
Kappy
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Ride until the bike stops o:) o:) o:)
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You could power up the fuel pump to keep pumping until as empty as it will go, as per the test procedure for the fuel pump output in the workshop manual.
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You could power up the fuel pump to keep pumping until as empty as it will go, as per the test procedure for the fuel pump output in the workshop manual.
Very clever Brock.
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Thanks guys,
I finally found something on another forum.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96943&d=1303790539 (http://www.st-owners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96943&d=1303790539)
Real easy, replaced with with 98, now charge battery and some carby cleaner tomorrow.
Cheers
Kappy
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Does this mean you are finally getting mobile?
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replaced with with 98
No real need to use 98, I used it when I first got the bike then tried normal unleaded. My spread sheet showed same mileage, no loss of performance. And i saved money.
P.S. it was SAAZ that suggested using the fuel pump..
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Just gonna run some 98 to maybe help clean the carbs as she been sitting for over 12 months.
Normally only run 91.
Yes Yorkie getting closer,hopefully.
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Kappy,
you could run a dose or three of carby cleaner ( from your local auto shop) / fuel conditioner as well. Make it a good dose and give the bike a good run. There will be lots of cobwebs to shift..
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I found the ST1100 did not run as well on 98. But when I parked the bike I filled with 98 and some Stabil for storage. A s fuel degrades octane decreases, so 98 will go down hill in a few months. I start the St1100 every month or two, and fires up first thing. I think adding the Stabil is the main thing, as keeps the fuel system from gumming up. As Brock says, adding some fuel cleaner is probably better than just running 98. 98 Just acts to slow down premature detonation, which the ST1100 does not have. Specific fuel system cleaner is better than running 98.
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Thanks for the tips.
Done now only about 5 litres of 98, just had a full tank of over 12 months old fuel.
We live and learn, anyway shouldn't do any harm,I wouldn't imagine.
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No harm, just no benefit except to the petrol station
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I now have another small issue, so rather than start a new thread I'll keep it here.
So after draining old fuel and replacing with fresh stuff, started cranking and battery down so charge battery and start cranking again and no firing, even with a little START YA BASTARD, cranked till battery died again (maybe new battery needed)
Anyway reconnected battery all lights etc came on with key, this time press start button nothing. :H
Any clue to fuse relay etc, I checked fuse near battery all good. :cuss
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If the clock resets on the button press, then the battery has died. Put a voltmeter on the battery and press the starter, if voltage drops below 10 the battery is flat.
Try jump starting from the car battery.
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Brock
I tried a car battery 2 in fact, still nothing,almost as if the kill switch is on, which its not. :o
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Revisited with an almost truck battery and heavy duty jumpers.
Still nothing, so fiddled with on/off switch for bit, working the switch off /on/off etc.
And then away we go, so not sure if there is an issue with switch, never happened before unless low voltage as suggested had an impact.
Now wont fire, plugs seem drowned, maybe too much Start Ya Bastard, so I ran engine with no plugs to evac extra fuel and dry out plugs, I will try later.
On a side not does system need to be primed since fuel line was disconnected to drain tank.
Will post later.
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Can you hear the fuek pump when you first turn on the key? If not, and the fuel filter drained out while you had the tank disconnected, you will probably need to jump the pump to fill the system. Just run a lead to the pos terminal of the pump (on top of the tank) and the pump will fill the system.
Had thsi problem after I rebuilt the top end and had the carbs out as well as the fuel tank and filter. Once the fuel filter is full, turn on key and you should hear the fuel pump go for short time, should be right to start it.
Grumpy
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Thanks Grumpy,
I can hear the pump when I turn on key.
I jumped the pump just to be sure, I think i'll just have to wait till all has dried out.
Too much impatience!!!!
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Thanks Grumpy,
I can hear the pump when I turn on key.
I jumped the pump just to be sure, I think i'll just have to wait till all has dried out.
Too much impatience!!!!
The fuel cut off valve needs vacuum to operate. With no fuel in the lines it might take awhile. I had the same issue when starting mine after doing timing belt and coolant hoses (carbs come out). After about ten minutes I tossed a little fuel down the throat of each carb (like the old days) until the motor started to run.
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Thanks for all the advice.
Finally got her running, sprayed some carby cleaner down the inlet tubes, lots of black smoke and when I cranked the revs had a few sparks coming out the exhaust.
Looks like I'm gonna need a new battery.
So after letting her run for a while I noted the same symptoms as I observed a short while ago, seems to be unbalanced and sounds mechanical.
It was suggested that having done the shims that I may need to balance the carbys . My query will may sound silly, is will carbys being out of balance cause the engine run physically out of balance, like can feel vibration in handle bars, and sound mechanically noisy.
Cheers
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The engine is not mechanically unbalanced, the carby balance is ensuring that the carbs are breathing the same (vaccum level). This means even fuel air load to each cylinder and even running.
Changing the shims, changes the way the engine breaths, so the carb balance is needed to even things up again.
No such thing as a stupid question.
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Thanks Brock,
The reference to silly question was from a different forum I was on and basically got lambasted for not knowing something that was obvious to some.
Mainly to get my carbys balanced I need to get to York, generous offer from Yorkie, but am reluctant to ride from Wagin and risk possible mechanical damage. The imbalance is more than I have ever felt from AnaSTasia and I've had her since about 2008.
I re-checked the valve shim settings all good and have checked that the crank marks and the cam marks all lined up, so its really not possible to have one tooth out????
So at the risk of banging on will unbalanced carbys cause this physical vibration I have observed.
Cheers
Kappy
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The best thing to do would be to get the balance kit to you
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I have already offered to post it