OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: Yorkie on October 12, 2014, 09:07:47 PM
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On the trip home from mid-week lunch a couple of weeks ago, temp got up a bit, on arriving home I bypassed the fan switch and fan running, easy fix however did not fix the problem.
On removing plastic and running engine I found cooling system was pressurised, also oil level is approx 5mm above full mark, have yet to do any further investigating but I think at least one of the heads has to come off, will keep you posted.
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:eek :eek :eek :eek
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Does not sound promising. A rare issue, but it can happen to any engine.
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Hmmm ... Bugger ... plenty of time for you to look into it and if you need a hand, give us a yell.
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Dont forget the pictures..
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Need to do a compression test to confirm, unfortunately mine does not have 10mm thread so I have ordered a fitting from fleabay.
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Evenin' all...
What is the concern???
Would have thought the first item to check with regards to a sustained (whatever that may be), pressurised cooling system would be a pinched breather hose that exit the top of the reservior bottle.
If its suspected engine compression or exhaust gasses bleeding into the coolant system and no water (coolant), being blown out of the ends of the exhaust(s), then remove the radiator cap (when cold), start and warm up the engine until temp gauge moves up to indicate engine is reaching or has reached normal operating temp, and IF not bubbles of gasses from engine compression aren't emitting from the now opened cooling system (will look like its boiling when it isn't), its doubtful engine gasses would be getting into the cooling system.
As for the decrease in engine oil level, the most likely scenario is IF it hasn't been burnt off, recheck with the bike on a different surface. MOST 1100, burn a bit of oil, the many discrpitions of carboned up valves attests to that.
CORRECTION: I misread your engine oil level...apologies! (Edited)
Just a thought.
Cheers the can :-)
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When I run the engine, coolant is forcing its way from around the hoses from the heads, have tried tightening the hose clamps with no success, also oil level has increased.
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sounds like the head gasket has a crack, causing pressurisation of the cooling system and pumping water into the sump.
Better dump the oil before you rust up the internals. Have you pulled any plugs to sheck for water/improper ignition?? It could tell you which side to pull.
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Mornin' Yorkie et al....
When I run the engine, coolant is forcing its way from around the hoses from the heads, have tried tightening the hose clamps with no success, also oil level has increased.
...this is a common problem and I would think unlikely to be caused by a blown head gasket. The main cause I believe (apart from a pinched resevior breather hose being caught in the side fairing attachment...easily done if its been off), is coolant flow becomes turbulant is this area and coolant / water seperates. Seperated coolant can easily find its was out, also you'll read (many times) that replacement hoses is often required. Don't forget these bikes are getting on a bit in age now and its age rather than usage thats the cause problems with water cooled engines.
Mixing coolants is problematic too, again many have written on this.
If you think there is a water / coolant getting into the oil, it will cause an emulsion. An oil / water emulsion is easlily recognisable as grey and often frothy. The best place to see this is the inside of the oil filler cap and around the rocker gear. If oil here is still its brown / black colour and is its usual consistancy, water / coolant is not getting into the engine oil.
For what it's worth I have had the same issue with both my 1100's, I have yet to replace either of the cylinder head return hoses. I have needed to replace the thermostat by-pass hose on one bike. I have drained, flushed and refilled both bikes with a 33% (1/3rd), coolant to water mix which seems to be working. Both bikes can sit about for months (ideal for getting water / coolant leaks), but a nip here and there with a 8mm spanner is working to date.
Cheers the can :-)
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Thanks Can, I would like to think you are on the money however it does not explain why the oil level has gone from full mark to top of the sight glass and I have to keep topping up the coolant. All hoses, coolant and thermostat were replaced prior to Border run this year.
Pressure is coming from hose connected to the right head, at this stage I am yet to remove anything other than Tupperware.
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Thanks Can, I would like to think you are on the money however it does not explain why the oil level has gone from full mark to top of the sight glass and I have to keep topping up the coolant. All hoses, coolant and thermostat were replaced prior to Border run this year.
Pressure is coming from hose connected to the right head, at this stage I am yet to remove anything other than Tupperware.
First thing I would do is dump the oil and have a looksie, you don't want to be running it if there's water in there anyways
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Mornin' Brian et al...
Thanks Can, I would like to think you are on the money however it does not explain why the oil level has gone from full mark to top of the sight glass and I have to keep topping up the coolant. All hoses, coolant and thermostat were replaced prior to Border run this year.
Pressure is coming from hose connected to the right head, at this stage I am yet to remove anything other than Tupperware.
Logged
...if you cannot be assured that your coolant leak isn't connected to, what I believe is a mis-reading of the oil level and think (knowing that oil and water cannot be mixed), that somehow it's unemulsified water in the base of the sump that has raised the overal oil level; then place the bike on a flat surface, on its centre stand. Then with the engine cold, drain off about 100-200ml of oil, that is all you will need to remove to; (A), return the level to that top mark, and (B) ascertain to whether there is water in the engine. Irrespective of quantities, water will always remain below the oil, if, in the most unlikihood of circumstances it hasn't emulsified.
No point in draining the lot if you dont have to I believe.
My reasoning for not thinking the bike has a failed head / cylinder seal is based on both components being made from the same materials, alloy. So there have the same heat conduction properties. Unlike, early Japanese engines that placed alloy heads on cast iron blocks, so gasket failures were commonplace, as was frequent cylinder head re-sufacing in order to staighten the head. Monotorque gaskets did go a way in minimalising these failures.
The ST1100, is not effected with the above mentioned. But following your train of thought, what on earth are you going to then do, if you lift a cylinder head?
Anyway, enough from moi'...hope you sort it to the point it regains your confidence in your bike and leave you with the thought my Master gave me in my first week as an Apprentice Aircraft Engineer, "when your presented with a repeat problem, always recheck the work you have previously done before looking elsewhere.."
Cheerio, the can :-)
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Never leave us, Yoda! :beer
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Before you tear it apart get a radiator pressure tester, then you might see where the coolant is going. Do what Dickie said and drop your oil to the right level and check for water in the oil, then put the pressure tester on and try and see where it's leaking from. Could be as simple as a radiator cap.
Cheers Aj. :blk13
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Thermostas failing closed also lead to similar issues. Never assume a new one is ok. Pressure test is a good.
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You are all missing the point, the coolant is pressurised on starting, don't have to wait for it to warm up, it is instantaneous. There is no other way the oil level,(which remained constant for 3,000k border run and a couple of months after), could rise unless coolant was the reason.
No point doing a pressure test, the coolant level drops as I add it.
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If i make York mid week, do you want me to drop by and put her on centre stand to drop some oil out?
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