OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Electrics & Electronics - Volts, Amps and Fuses ST1300 => Topic started by: jf3000 on June 17, 2015, 01:39:17 AM
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Good Evening,
I am looking at that CTEK MXS 5.0:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-MXS5-0-BATTERY-CHARGER-FOR-CAR-BIKE-NEW-2014-Model-w-Temp-Compensation-/121223081438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c39756dde (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-MXS5-0-BATTERY-CHARGER-FOR-CAR-BIKE-NEW-2014-Model-w-Temp-Compensation-/121223081438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c39756dde)
and I wanted to know what else I needed to get so I can charge the battery via 240v.
The reason I am asking is because that wonderful new battery I bought is completely rooted and dead. The last time I went for a ride was 6 days ago, went to jump on and start and wont even blink a muscle.
Someone ran a multimeter on it for me and well they said it was knackered and probably a good idea to get some sort of charging device.
Thank you for your replies.
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Jason as long as you can get the bike within 3 metres of a power point the CTEK has everything you need in the box. The small tail with the charging port connects to batteries positive and negative terminals, and leave the tail hanging in an accessible location OR just use the alligator clips.
But you will be removing and replacing the Tupperware each time :grin
:beer
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If all you are needing is a 'trickle' charge, this may do the trick http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36)
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If all you are needing is a 'trickle' charge, this may do the trick [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36[/url])
I wouldn't trust my battery to a cheap charger. I have a MXS5. It works well
Sent from my iPad
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Jason, just a quick response for DOA Battery. If your new battery was dead after 6 days i`d suggest you have a bigger problem, open circuit perhaps. A trickle charger will only maintain a battery, it wont, as a general rule charge it from flat. Use a good quality charger about $50 or so. Last one I bought was a projector charger for the wife's scoot and works a treat. I have one on my bike also.These are available thru E bay or your local Repco etc: Good luck but check battery first..................Nigel :wht11
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROJECTA-CHARGE-MAINTAIN-AC150-TRICKLE-BATTERY-CHARGER-MOTORBIKE-12V-JET-SKI-/400846819262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d54550fbe........This is the one I use. (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROJECTA-CHARGE-MAINTAIN-AC150-TRICKLE-BATTERY-CHARGER-MOTORBIKE-12V-JET-SKI-/400846819262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d54550fbe........This)
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I have three CTEK Chargers and they all suffer the same treatment out of the box. Cut the lead with the alligator clips about half-way along and put an Anderson plug on both cut ends. Then you can connect the Anderson plugs together if you want to use the CTEK as it was originally designed.
Connect one end of a heavy duty cable to your battery and the other end to an Anderson plug which you then fix to a convenient (easy to get to) place, possibly the rear of your bike.
It is a simple matter of connecting two Anderson plugs to put your battery on a trickle charge.
I have Anderson plugs on my 4WD (three) batteries, boat (two batteries), trailer battery and simply rotate my various CTEK chargers to suit.
The Anderson plug fixed to the rear of my bike serves a dual purpose of providing 'bike' power to my 100 amp/hr battery in the trailer when towing. The battery in the trailer powers a 40 litre Engel fridge. BUT don't leave these Anderson plugs connected (between bike and trailer) overnight or for a long lunch break or the bike battery will be drained. Don't ask me how I know.
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Sounds like you need a basic dual battery management system on the trailer Lionel......
Either the basic Redarc at less than $100 or a cheaper but effective option is to use a $25 dollar 12v 100amp Solenoid.....charges the camper battery while your bikes running. The solenoid is activated to charge by bikes ignition and isolated the same way so one battery doesn't back feed into another......
:beer
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When I bought my ctek charger it came with both alligator clips and ring terminals attached via a quick connect plug. If yours is the same then just permanently attach the ring terminals to the battery and hang the plug out through the frame somewhere, then you can connect and disconnect the charger easily.
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jf3000,
There must be a reason why your battery died after a few days. Have you added any accessories recently that may be hot wired to the battery, have you pinched a wire when replacing the plastics.
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You can actually buy a panel mount connection, which also has some LED's which show the battery state when disconnected.
http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indicator%20Panel%20M8%201,5m (http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indicator%20Panel%20M8%201,5m) and I think there is another with a shorter lead.
I also like the idea of the Anderson plugs, but I have a stonking big one on the 4WD, and would only but a smaller 50A or less one on the bike, so I also have a CTek connection direct on the 4WD battery, rather than two sizes of Anderson plug. Still if I didn't need a huge one for the 4WD, that would be the best way to go.
As far as the battery going flat so quick, you don't have any USB devices connected direct to the battery, as they suck some milliamps whilst connected and will flatten a battery in a few days. Just use a relay if that's the case, or better still, a fuzeblock or similar.
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I agree with Brock ... look for a fairly large issue. Either a drastic battery failure or a load on the battery that remains when the ignition is off. This is where a multi-meter might help to provide answers.
I would probably take the positive lead off the battery. Set my meter to read 10 amps full scale initially and then place the meter leads in the amps connector on the meter. Taking the lead ends, connect red to the battery +ve lug and black to the wire that used to connect to the +ve terminal. Do you read any current?
If very low now go to a ma scale and read the current draw. The only current should be the clock, (I think) Please correct me guys if not quite correct. If its a fairly large ma reading then someting is draining the battery and needs to be identified. Obviously remove the load if identified.
If no extra load then I would suspect the battery itself. You might need to take it to a battery shop that can test it under a substantial load using a purpose built meter.
I purchased a Ctek MXS 7 and then fitted the remote charging point that I cable tied in place so that I can easily connect the charger at any time without removing any plastic. I like the pannel mount but did not have time to cut a hole in the plastic to do a neat job. Also it did not come with my kit as did the other item. So I kept it simple. I am very happy with it as a charger though. I beleive the Victorian Police use a lot of them on their vehicles.
http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/MXS%207.0 (http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/MXS%207.0)
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ST2UP
The problem is solved as the FJR has 2 batteries (ex-police) and the main can be isolated.
atoyot
I have 50 amp Anderson plugs on all my batteries and I use the CTEC 25 amp/hr charger periodically on all of them.
My 3 CTEK chargers are a few years old now and all came with alligator clips that couldn't be disconnected from the charger. Thankfully the chargers still work well.
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Let me just umm re-add. The battery I bought is that one from Brisbane quite a few months ago, the last time I rode the bike which was a few days ago, I went to start the bike and the battery was flat.
So if I get the Ctek and this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Motorcycle-ATV-12V-1-25A-LED-Indicator-Smart-Compact-Battery-Charger-/171822435894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item28016a4e36) then thats all i need?
I looked at the ctek and couldnt see a 240v in there and figured I needed something else too.
I am going to contact the people I got the battery from and ask about a return since this thing is useless and funny enough was recommended by on here, must of been a dud in the making.
Thanks for all the responses
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Jason, most batteries should carry at least a 12 mth warranty, and I had one replaced that packed up inside one year. If you don't have your receipt, providing the retailer with the date of the sale should enable them to identify the sale.
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I see what you mean JF. The ebay Ad doesnt mention anywhere what powers the charger but if you have a look on this page: http://www.gadgetcity.com.au/ctek-mxs5.0t-battery-charger-12-volt-5a-8-stage-auto-charger-p-3156.html (http://www.gadgetcity.com.au/ctek-mxs5.0t-battery-charger-12-volt-5a-8-stage-auto-charger-p-3156.html) it gives the full specs and as you can see, it plugs into 240V.
All you need is the CTEK, you dont need anything else. Just connect the ring terminals to your battery (red to +ve, black to -ve) and hang the connector plug in some accessible , but safe, place and then after a ride it is easy to connect the CTEK to the cable and l;eave it on charge. The CTEKs are 'smart' chargers and will provide the appropriate level of charge to your battery without overcharging it so you can leave it connected without worry.
Allan
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The CTEK has landed, thanks to Shiney for his advice. The bike is roaring again.
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Awesome news mate :runyay
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