OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => Farkles and Gear General Section => Topic started by: Dick B "Yewie" on March 05, 2012, 05:10:09 PM
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Returning up the Hume Highway from our recent tour of Tassie recently and the boss and I had cause to pull up under an overpass to pull on our wetties. As it was a little hazardous I opted to leave my hazards flashing :(. Of course the inevitable happened and my four year old battery picked that moment to spit the dummy and quit. The good ole NRMA saved the day and jump started the old girl again (the bike that is not the boss!!). Then came time to replace the right pannier and lock the seat back in place (must be removed to get at the battery) while the bike idled smoothly anxious to get going again. Oh! Oh!, I need the ignition key which means I would need to turn off the engine again. Aha! I had a short key made some time back to leave permenantly in the lockable glove box so I could open it without turning off the engine. Phew !! if fitted the pannier and seat lock enabling me to replace them and ride off. The morals of this long winded story,
a) don't leave your hazards on if the engine is not running
b) get a short spare key cut for the lockable glove box (it is too short to use in the ignition and the HISS would stop it from being used to start the bike anyway).
Worked for me anyway
Dick B :13Candy
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I like stories with morals :p
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One of my keys has been used that often that I can start my 1100 and remove the key. Trouble is that it's worn to the point that it no longer locks the steering lock so it's time for another key.
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One of my keys has been used that often that I can start my 1100 and remove the key. Trouble is that it's worn to the point that it no longer locks the steering lock so it's time for another key.
Check Fleabay. I got 2 blanks for the 1300 from Honkers for under $10 incl postage. They almost certainly do 1100s also.
Now I think of it, isn't there a Jap car blank that's the same? Saaz will know.
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BACK TO THE ORIGINAL SUBJECT....................................................................................
We had this problem occur a couple of times on the Police bikes, so what we did was to get a guy to make up a short, thick lead running from the + terminal of the battery, poking through the side, just under the seat, with an insulated spade connector on the end.
Then whenever this happened again all that was needed was to jam something, screwdriver, key, anything metallic into the spade connector and then attach the + jumper lead to that and the - lead to a metal point on the bike and you could then turn the ignition over and start it up.
In this way there is no need to remove the seat, in fact anything, from the bike. Once it fires up you simply ride off. ( Cable required is quite heavy, something in the Jumper Lead league)
Great idea I know but for some reason I still haven't done this to my bike :||||. Next job to do after it's been repaired. :whistle
Take care all,
Dave R :wht13
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EEEEEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dodgy to say the least, even if effective. Keep a spare seat panier key under the seat maybe, and use a properly set up remote jump cable. We will have to come up with some thing decent. :think1
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EEEEEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dodgy to say the least, even if effective. Keep a spare seat panier key under the seat maybe, and use a properly set up remote jump cable. We will have to come up with some thing decent. :think1
Why is that Brock?
I'm not trying to be smart or anything and I :-++ to your superior knowledge on such things.
It just that it worked ok and the guy who did it used to work for Battery World or somewhere and he thought it was ok to do.
Dave R :wht13
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Dave,
The idea of poking a screw driver in to a socket with the possibility of shorting it to frame scares me a little. Mind you I trained as an aircraft sparky so our requirements are a lot tighter. You dont want to see an exploding battery if something goes wrong.
I intend to remotely place a lead that a Jumper lead can be connected to safely. I will come up with something.
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Even having an 75W Anderson plug would do the trick. Two ends on the battery. Then a matching plug attached to a short lead and a couple of lugs.
Bike won't start. Plug into the plug already attached to battery. Pos and Neg to the colour coded lugs. Started. Unclip, unplug and Hi Ho Silver away!
:blu13
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I was thinking of something along those lines.