Replace Rear Break Disc/Rotor

[Shiney]

A few days ago Draco and I changed the rear break disc on the Blue Beast

So here's the how to

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Place the bike on the center stand and remove the panniers




Remove the rear mudguard:
   Remove the two bolts underneath near the tyre




   Remove the two bolts under the tail light






   Mudguard will now drop down off the bike






Remove the nut from the axle and tap the axle through a little (NOTE: The exhaust pipes may need to be removed to make space for the axle to slide through)


















Slide the axle through enough to clear the break assembly and remove the remaining bolt that is holding the assembly to the swing arm

      


   * From this point on a second person is helpful
Hold the break assembly away from the rim (or you could just use some rope )

      


Have one person hold the rear wheel in place while the other person slides the axle almost all the way out (Or all the way out if you want)










Once the axle is out move the wheel towards the breaks and drop it out.
Then place the wheel down so that the disc is facing up




Remove the 6 bolts holding the disc to the wheel and remove the disc

   




Place the new disc onto the wheel






   * Make sure that the countersunk bolt hols are facing up

WRONG



CORRECT



Bolt the new disc down






   * Remember that when a new disc is installed new break pads are recommended




   * This can be done before reinstalling the wheel or after (A guide for replacing rear brake pads can be found here:  http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=10472.0)

   


Reinstall the wheel making sure that it fits in on the right by moving it around until it slots all the way in.
Slide the axle through and replace the break assembly

   


Pump the breaks a few times to build pressure in the system and take it for a test ride



Cheers
Shiney

[Wild Rose]

Thanks Shiney for another great " How to do" posts
Thanks for yout time and effort 
Thanks to Draco for pulling his bike apart so that you can show us 

[Gadget]

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[johnnyYTED]

 Great pics and how too,
I might add its pretty much the same on the ST11's also..  

[Bloodman]

Typically another fantastic "How to" from Shiney.

Thanks again   

Justin

 

[Biggles]

Well done with plenty of clear photos. 
Note, the only reason you need to remove the mudguard is the fact you're on the ground.  If you have access to a bike hoist as the workshops do, the wheel just drops down from the axle.
It's a good opportunity to put a bit of moly grease on the splines while the wheel is off.  You can't rely on the tyre change guys doing it- it's not their job.

[alans1100]

I'm just curious as the year and kms done as my 99 1100A still has OEM discs @ 192,000 km. I guess I lot might depend on how often and how hard you brake as well.

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

I'm just curious as the year and kms done as my 99 1100A still has OEM discs @ 192,000 km. I guess I lot might depend on how often and how hard you brake as well.

  odo 198,210 year 2004 
Braking is moderate unless emergency

[Shiney]

The disc was replaced due to it being warped

[West Aussie Glen]

I think the torque setting for the rear axle nut is 108 Nm

[tj189]

great work guys, thanks for your efforts 

[Shiney]

Thanks everyone
And a special thanks to Draco who is the one that did all the work (I just assisted and put together the "How To" )

All in all it was surprisingly easy for our first time

[Brock]

That reminds me, I have a new rotor for my rear wheel that needs fitting, new pads as well of course.

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

Hahahaha bring it over 😆

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[Shiney]

THE PICTURES HAVE BEEN UPDATED