Checking and changing Valve Shims on an ST1100

[STeveo]

If you do decide to sand down the shims, do it on the side that has the markings so that next time you will know it has been thinned.

 

[kappy5003]

My shim kit arrived the other day and today I decided I was reading for action.

I had noted all my clearance measurements and was was in the process of lining up the T1 mark for the right bank, my instructional video mentioned taking off timing belt inspection cover and double checking that the index mark and the index line married up.

Fortunate I did that as I discover the T1 mark was 180 degrees out, so I turned over 180 and discovered when T1 mark were lined up the index mark and the index weren't quite on maybe 1/2 mm.
Anyway I'm not sure whether that really make that big a difference as far as changing shims, correct me if I'm wrong, but maybe it means timing belt has stretched a little.

Can anyone advise of whether there is an acceptable level of stretched.

As I was unsure I stopped and went for coffee and will re assess tomorrow, maybe with some new found posted wisdom.

Cheers
Kappy

[alans1100]

Just looking at the diagram in the manual it looks like the T1 Mark is between a T and an F with another mark between the F and a 1.

I was a little concerned about the alignment when I replaced my timing belt because to me it seemed a little way out but all the marks were lined up when the new belt went in and the tension adjusted. It must be ok since it's running ok.

[kappy5003]

Alan I think the T1 mark align the crank for the right bank and T4 aligns the crank for the left bank. The F1 & F4 maybe so many degrees past TDC????

The other marks (index line and index mark) are relative to the timing belt driven pulley this mark is, on double checking is maybe 2 mm off with the crank in the correct position.

So maybe the belt has stretched and I may need to replace trimming belt.

My concern was what effect would the timing mark being that much out have on the actual running and would that impact on the replacing of the shims?????

[STeveo]

Kappy, I don't think the marks being that far apart would be noticeable to the engine performance. Would not effect the shin clearance. As to belt, how many K's on the engine or old belt?

 

[saaz]

The marks are never perfectly aligned. You can turn it a bit either side of the mark and all the cam marking still pretty well line up.  I did a belt on one bike at around 180,000kms and it seemed ok, just a bit stiffer than the new one.

[kappy5003]

Steveo
2000 model with 97,000, from what I can see of the belt from the right side looks ok.

I didn't think that difference would impact doing the shims as most line up as per manual.

Did the right side didn't change the inlet shims as they were 6 thou but at least I have recorded what shims are in there for the future.

Actually after I checked and double checked my maths, I changed the exhaust shims now the clearance in 10 thou.

All the original shims ranged from 2.0mm--- 2.05mm with a couple 2.02mm so I guess they may be from factory????.

So all torqued  up but had to leave the left side for another day.

I'll address the timing belt issue after I've done the shims.

May end up dropping radiator as the some small hoses that are quite hard, so may as well do that while in pieces.

[saaz]

2.025 ones are from the factory. Very hard to buy them, but sometimes you can get the half size ones from a Honda dealer if they have taken them out of a bike during servicing.  I used to be able to swap shims for free with one dealer, but they left town.  Those size shims are common in the ST1100s I have checked.

[kappy5003]

Just updating progress, well not good.

Over the weekend I tackled the left side re took readings and disassembled cams etc.

Did all the sums and replaced shims all bar 3 as ok. Had to sand one down as didn't have the correct size in kit.

Re assembled and then torqueing down and  snapped a cam holder bolt, not concentrating enough, shit .

So has anyone had any experience with an eaziout that small or is a case of taking the head off

[saaz]

Try a tool shop, and get a set of a reverse drill bit and extractor.  Should work.  Sometimes just using the reverse drill bit will do the trick, as the bolt just comes out.  I got mine at a fastener speciality store.

[kappy5003]

It ain't a very big stud, can you get 3 mm reverse drill bits???

[saaz]

The ones I have are from this range

http://www.bordo.com.au/_productGroup.php?catGroupId=454  The No.2 I have would do a cam bolt, No.1 also

[STeveo]

I bought a left hand twist set from 1/16th to 1/2 inch from local tool shop for $50.00. The secret is to drill a small hole about 3mm deep, (eg 2mm dia) then 'bite' into it with a 4mm drill and they will usually come out.


 

[kappy5003]

Thanks guys for the valuable advise, went a brought and N01 & No 2 extractor set.

Will tackle in a week or so as drive out to Broome tonight,

I tackle this job when fresh and in correct mind set as I figrue you only get one chance at this.

By the tone of the replies I may not be the 1st to have done this.

BTW if someone had told me to get a left hand drill bit I may have said

[kappy5003]

Just a quick update.

Finally got a decent centre punch, the 2 I got and returned to Bunnings were useless, one the point broke off and the other the point was too soft. As I was punching mark in broken stud I thought I noticed move.

Drilled into broken stud with 2mm bit about 6mm then got the No 2 easiout and screw it in and once strted the stud started coming out, so finished job with my fingers  so how good was that .

Now just gotta get a new stud.

Cheers
Kappy

[Williamson]

...... Now just gotta get a new stud.

Oh, the opportunities for smart alec replies ..........

[saaz]

Quite often just the drilling loosens it enough, but good to have the extractor backup.  Those extractor kits will come in handy sometime in the future, if not for you but someone else.  A good investment 

[Wombat]

just thought I would keep this post open 
Have been working on the STead after we did Pezzz,s and I was tempted to look at the valve clearance. I know these motors are bullet proof but it surprised me to find all within specs except the two rear inlets (rear inlet on 3 and 4) which were 0.1mm wide. ie clearance is 0.3mm. tempted to put covers on and forget. Motor has been running fine. Looking at other parts in the motor it looks as if this has come from the factory like this. Decided to do the right thing and put right. Looking at shim kits but want to do FarRide in two weeks so ebay is out. Can do each side one night , get shim next day then put in and do other side. Three days in all assuming shims available. So the main question without being anal but have done blueprinted engines is what is the acceptable difference in valve clearance between pairs and between cylinders. All clearances will be wide from centre. The STead has done about 140000kms has been running nicely and we have changed timing belt, all coolant hoses, New tapered head stem bearings  and headlight shims. I have cleaned out clutch fluid but have now no clutch so will look at that tomorrow night. All advice accepted.

 

[Brock]

And you wont know what shims you need until you pull the old ones out and see what size they are...

[Wombat]

And you wont know what shims you need until you pull the old ones out and see what size they are...

Exactly

[saaz]

I have always set them close to the maximum, as they always close up over time. If the cams come out, worth writing down clearances and shims in all the other cylinders for next time preparation.

[Abe]

I used this:-

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?75926-ST1100-Valve-Clearance-Worksheet

Acknowledgement to the ST-Owners.com site, great info over there as well as here 

[Wombat]

Cheers guys 
I redid all clearances last night and they come up within tolerance except the two I mentioned which were not as bad. All wider than spec so I decided to leave them as is. 
So I am waiting for the next drama to occur