ST1100 Fluid leak number 2

[MickS]

Was going to the Vic RTE at Port Fairy this coming Sat. Went for a few short rides to make sure all ok for the trip.
Then I noticed leaking coolant on the concrete. Bugger - not again.
This time the carby's came off for a proper look.

Can anyone definitely confirm for me that the hole at the tip of the screwdriver is the water pump weep hole, cos that looks where the leak is - cant run the motor to 100 percent verify cos the carby's are off the bike.

To me I guess this means a new water pump (if you can still get one that is). A quick look on the net one looks in the vicinity of $450.

Any knowledgeable advice gratefully accepted.

[alans1100]

Item 3 for the water pump and item 4 (O ring) at least if it is the water pump. Even with freight it's still cheaper than local if your not in a hurry

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1999/ST1100A%20AC/WATER%20PUMP/parts.html

I can't help with the hole though.

[Itdepends]

Can you borrow or buy a pressure tester to confirm that's where the leaks coming from before spending the $$. The location looks suspicious but to get coolant out of the v you need quite a bit to accumulate and the higher points will tend to dry out and leave white accumulation as you can see.

The only time I had a problem in that area it was a hairline crack in one of cast fittings that connects on the top- looks like you've had a similar problem in the past given one of them looks newer than the others.

[Greencan]

Can anyone definitely confirm for me that the hole at the tip of the screwdriver is the water pump weep hole, cos that looks where the leak is - cant run the motor to 100 percent verify cos the carby's are off the bike

The screwdriver tip is at the rear of the waterpump recess, which if memory serves me (happy to corrected), is part of the crankcase. If so and devcon isnt in your thoughts as a remedy, probably not the news you are looking for.

(See attached pic)

Cheers the can :-)

[Biggles]

There's nothing wrong with Devcon or JB Weld for crankcase repairs.  I know it sounds like a second-hand car dealer's bodgie fix, but Araldite has been an approved crankcase crack repair agent for Continental engines in light aircraft for decades.  The area is not over-heated and there is no movement.  Just ensure it is scrupulously clean with acetone or MEK (or both) and make sure the area is roughened for a good adhesion key.

[Greencan]

Good to catch up again Mick...reckon your on top of it now too...and (touch wood), no way near as troublesome as that hex headed bolt on the fork all those years back 

PS Re: that heated hose fix...with the carbies off, hopefully that re-jigging will make sense. Praps a pic (if you go down that path), would be good to pass on, if you think its a fix.

Cheers 

[MickS]

Dick,

Thanks for your wisdom and helpful hints today. I feel reinspired to look further for leak no 3 (the carby's went back on last night after new O rings installed to fix leak no 2).
They say things come in threes don't they?
No rush now, I will beat this  !!!!!!

ps. I do get what you mean about the hose re-jigging. If I go that way I will take pic's close up and detail what I did and post to the forum.

Regards
MickS

[Kev Murphy]

Did you find the leak yet Mick?

[MickS]

Haven't had a chance to look yet Kev. Have been away since day after the RTE. Back next week and will look then

[Kev Murphy]