Thermostats

[Rodd]

Anyone bought a thermostat to suit the ST1100 here in Aus.
About to place an order with DSS and the thermostat gets to around $50 (genuine Honda)!  Surely it isn't any more expensive than that to buy locally?

Rodd

[Brock]

I believe that a 1980 civic may be suitable, cant be too expensive at REPCO...

[Rodd]

I held off on the DSS order.

Checked the internet this morning and found a reference to what car thermostat to use.
1992-1996 Honda Accord 2.2L (Stant #35868)
1973-1980 Honda Civic 1.2, 1.3, 1.5l (180 deg.F) (Stant #13868) (Napa 535080)

SCA had the Civic one at <$20 but I wanted to try to get the Accord one seeing that it was used in a car of similar era to my ST).

No luck with the Accord versions!
Can anyone else confirm that either of these parts fit Aussie ST1100s?

My Morgan Carbtune arrived this morning, so want to get the thermostat sorted before sync'ing carbs!

[Malcolm6112]

I recall something said in the older/ new forum before this one. Maybe Streak or Diesel could help out with this information.
Saaz might be worth an ask as well.

[saaz]

Available from supercheap, repco, autobarn depending on the brand. they should be able to cross check.
•   Thermostat – CPC12-180
•   Thermostat – Tridon TT240-180
•   Thermostat – Dayco – DT27A
•   Cap – CPC 532-16 (16psi) . I used a CPC 560-90 which is narrower so the ears don't get in the way, 13psi but works fine
 

[Malcolm6112]

Got a new OEM from America to suit the 1300. $35.00. Much better than $90 from the STealerships.
 

[Tipsy]

I am also using the CPC 560-90 without any problems
  PY
Tipsy

[Piet]

The Civic thermostat may not be all that its cracked up to be as a replacement.  Please check reply #7 in this conversation on www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?93778-ST1100-thermostat-question
Basically the Civic will fail closed the ST will fail open.  Open gets you home, closed is a major problem.

[alans1100]

This is what I paid for mine Jan last year in $US. Total cost including, hoses etc. was about $175 but our dollar was better then so will cost a bit more now.

http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=2977.msg32803#msg32803

Part Number: 19045-MY3-621
Description: CAP, RADIATOR        for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $23.61
Total Cost: $23.61

Part Number: 19300-MG9-000
Description: THERMOSTAT           for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $28.67
Total Cost: $28.67

[saaz]

I very much doubt what is in post #7 of the link. The central spring is always trying to close the thermostat. The plunger forces against the spring to open the thermostat according to temperature. The plunger of the Honda thermostat looks not different to an aftermarket one (I just happen to have two failed Honda OEM thermostats in a box) plunger wise. Honda thermostats have physically broken and lead to overheating as the thermostat is shut. The problem I have had is the bike running too cool as the thermostat stays a bit open. It seems this was due to buildup on the plunger stopping it from closing properly.

However, the Honda OEM thermostat does have a larger opening than a standard non-OEM thermostat. It is closer to the high flow versions of the non-oem thermostats you can get, but these cost around the same as the prices Allan posted up so perhaps the OEM price reflects this?

The Civic thermostat may not be all that its cracked up to be as a replacement.  Please check reply #7 in this conversation on www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?93778-ST1100-thermostat-question
Basically the Civic will fail closed the ST will fail open.  Open gets you home, closed is a major problem.

[curious1]

I very much doubt what is in post #7 of the link. The central spring is always trying to close the thermostat. The plunger forces against the spring to open the thermostat according to temperature. The plunger of the Honda thermostat looks not different to an aftermarket one (I just happen to have two failed Honda OEM thermostats in a box) plunger wise. Honda thermostats have physically broken and lead to overheating as the thermostat is shut. The problem I have had is the bike running too cool as the thermostat stays a bit open. It seems this was due to buildup on the plunger stopping it from closing properly.

However, the Honda OEM thermostat does have a larger opening than a standard non-OEM thermostat. It is closer to the high flow versions of the non-oem thermostats you can get, but these cost around the same as the prices Allan posted up so perhaps the OEM price reflects this?

The Civic thermostat may not be all that its cracked up to be as a replacement.  Please check reply #7 in this conversation on www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?93778-ST1100-thermostat-question
Basically the Civic will fail closed the ST will fail open.  Open gets you home, closed is a major problem.

I am a bit confused. In the moment I am looking for some advice about the ST thermostat. Will it fail open or closed. The quote above says Civic TH will fail closed = bad news versus ST will fail open. Is this correct and how can I check that my TH is working correctly. I have the suspision my engine is not warming up quickly enough and would like some advice where to measure temperature to check that the engine got the right temperature. I got an infrared temp instrument which makes taking a reading easy but where?

[curious1]

I stuffed up my last reply with placing it at the wrong spot. I have to experiment a bit to get this right.
Please read bottom part of previous message.

[Brock]

Fixed

[saaz]

Comments about thermostats failing open/closed are about the ST1100 one, which is quite different to the ST1300 one.  I have not seen an ST1300 in the flesh, but the ST1100 ones look exactly like car thermostats that also work.

Someone should be able to come along and say what bars the ST13 normally runs on.  It is not unknown for some slow warming up, and unfortunately there does not seem to be after market thermostats that fit the ST1300.  It can take a while in Canberra this time of year for anything to warm up quickly though!  Once it goes off fast idle it should be ready to go.

I very much doubt what is in post #7 of the link. The central spring is always trying to close the thermostat. The plunger forces against the spring to open the thermostat according to temperature. The plunger of the Honda thermostat looks not different to an aftermarket one (I just happen to have two failed Honda OEM thermostats in a box) plunger wise. Honda thermostats have physically broken and lead to overheating as the thermostat is shut. The problem I have had is the bike running too cool as the thermostat stays a bit open. It seems this was due to buildup on the plunger stopping it from closing properly.

However, the Honda OEM thermostat does have a larger opening than a standard non-OEM thermostat. It is closer to the high flow versions of the non-oem thermostats you can get, but these cost around the same as the prices Allan posted up so perhaps the OEM price reflects this?

The Civic thermostat may not be all that its cracked up to be as a replacement.  Please check reply #7 in this conversation on www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?93778-ST1100-thermostat-question
Basically the Civic will fail closed the ST will fail open.  Open gets you home, closed is a major problem.

I am a bit confused. In the moment I am looking for some advice about the ST thermostat. Will it fail open or closed. The quote above says Civic TH will fail closed = bad news versus ST will fail open. Is this correct and how can I check that my TH is working correctly. I have the suspision my engine is not warming up quickly enough and would like some advice where to measure temperature to check that the engine got the right temperature. I got an infrared temp instrument which makes taking a reading easy but where?

[Wombat]

Available from supercheap, repco, autobarn depending on the brand. they should be able to cross check.
•   Thermostat – CPC12-180
•   Thermostat – Tridon TT240-180
•   Thermostat – Dayco – DT27A
•   Cap – CPC 532-16 (16psi) . I used a CPC 560-90 which is narrower so the ears don't get in the way, 13psi but works fine
 

I have the tt240-180 with no probs. offset plunger and 180 deg.