Rear wheel repairing…feeling the heat

[Greencan]

Recently I had need to re-repair a rear wheel flange drive land that I had previously repaired a couple of years ago.

Unfortunately despite me turning the new flange collar so that it had a 2 – 2.5 thou interference fit plus the use of Loctite 638 retaining compound, it failed after the bike suffered an unexpected and catastrophic rear brake failure.

Loctite 638 has a shear temp of 180c
 
The repair is more than 20cm from the brake calliper…so I will let you speculate on temps reached at the disc.

Anyway, I decided to scotch-lock the collar…see pic below.



The lock holes in this case were drilled using a rotary table and a Bridgeport mill.

As I now know what damage a rear brake failure can cause, I will need to scotch-lock another wheel I have repaired. This bike is on the Gold Coast and I will not have the luxury of a mill to drill 3 perpendicular holes (essential for scotch-locking). So I have made a guide tool to enable me to use a battery hand drill.

If anyone is interested in either the ST1100 wheel repair (not applicable to ST1300), or the locking, then send me a personal message with an email address and I will email you a time and location when I will be stripping the wheel down and doing this, either on the Gold Coast or in Brisbane.

Will be sometime in the first week of May.

Cheers, the can.

[Biggles]

OK, I'll bite.
I deduce there is a key goes in those holes.  Presumably Locktited in.
Google only know about the electrical cable connectors by that name.

[Greencan]

Morning Bill et al...

Well you of all people I least expected to ask that question given both your generation and pHx in aviation...scotch-locking is a method of securely or permanently retaining, not a bit you can buy off the internet. Commonly used in mechanical aviation of your era.

The only reason I posted this thread was to let anyone who may be interested in one solution to remedying the root cause of adverse and unnecessary final drive spline wear on ST1100's (if interested), before I sell my St1100's.

Cheers the can

[Piet]

I will also take a bite.

How does this fix or help control rear spline wear?
What is it exactly this is accomplishing?

[Biggles]

Well you of all people I least expected to ask that question given both your generation and pHx in aviation...scotch-locking is a method of securely or permanently retaining, not a bit you can buy off the internet. Commonly used in mechanical aviation of your era.

I knew it wasn't something you buy off the 'net!  I only did a search on the term, since I figured it was a technique.
Sadly, the only securing technique I ever used in aviation was lock-wiring, which doesn't seem to be relevant in this context.

[Brock]

I havent heard the term scotch lock used like this. To me, a scotchlock is a crude method of connecting a wire to an existing wire



From your pic, it looks like the hole is drilled and tapped for a grub screw to prevent turning.

[Yorkie]

The only way to eliminate wear on the final drive is to eliminate all but rotary movement, Honda over engineered this, my 1980 XV750 has no wear at all and the final drive is all bolted together, no rubbers or ali wear parts.
I have been trying to work out a way to eliminate the rubbers etc and make it a solid unit, at this stage not happening.
When all Honda parts are unavailable there will be thousands of ST's to turn into trikes by some inventive soul.

[Biggles]

The only way to eliminate wear on the final drive is to eliminate all but rotary movement, Honda over engineered this, my 1980 XV750 has no wear at all and the final drive is all bolted together, no rubbers or ali wear parts.
I have been trying to work out a way to eliminate the rubbers etc and make it a solid unit, at this stage not happening.
When all Honda parts are unavailable there will be thousands of ST's to turn into trikes by some inventive soul.

or there will be Cush Rubbers on eBay from China.       

[alans1100]

The only way to eliminate wear on the final drive is to eliminate all but rotary movement, Honda over engineered this, my 1980 XV750 has no wear at all and the final drive is all bolted together, no rubbers or ali wear parts.
I have been trying to work out a way to eliminate the rubbers etc and make it a solid unit, at this stage not happening.
When all Honda parts are unavailable there will be thousands of ST's to turn into trikes by some inventive soul.

or there will be Cush Rubbers on eBay from China.       

Aftermarket set available over in the UK.....part number AGEBA-MAJ-B80P http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/ about $AUD56 at todays rates

After putting in new inserts, rubbers, screws and two thrust washers (to account for wear around the bearing) there was no movement on my last tyre change. I would hazard a guess and suggest that when the drive flange can be easily removed (by the hand) its time for new rubbers.   Some of the work I did is here http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=8967.msg109168#msg109168 and I think that the prime cause of the damage was a missing thrust washer. Sometime during an earlier tyre change it went missing causing the flange to sit a little closer to the wheel or at least increase any free play that might have existed.

[Greencan]

How does this fix or help control rear spline wear?
What is it exactly this is accomplishing?

- The flange drive weighs in at 1.2kg and has an ID of 65mm

- The wheel flange land OD (when new), is a tolerance fit for the flange drive and thus prevelant to galling if not regularly maintained (hence the Honda reccomendation for heavy moly). Which, ironically will only work if regularly is renewed.

- If the measured variation between the OD and ID is >1mm (20-30thou), the flange drive will run concentricly, irrespective of the condition of both cush drive rubbers or their alloy inserts. In essence, as someone else has pointed with the earlier bike, the ST1100 flange drive becomes the instrument for its own demise by vertue of its 1.2kg mass becoming unsupported.

- Unresolved concentric rotation is a death knell for a tolerance spline drive durability.
 
My first post was some 13 years ago (yahoo), when I wrote of a hand fettled steel shim I use to remedy the first wheel flange. It was successful and I still have that shim after 11 years of service. I have since moved onto milling off the damage flange and fitting a T6 6061 hi-tensile collar.

This will be my very last post on this. So if anyone is interested in knowing more send me a message with an email.

Cheerio, greencan. 

[Yorkie]

I concur with 'Can, all movement has to be eliminated and rubbers will not do it, the only possible way I can envisage is to bolt the final drive unit to the wheel and torque it down.