What A $1200 can buy

[Cressida]

I have also added to my intro page:

This is Cressida new cycle.

https://youtu.be/_cYtE25DEu0

https://youtu.be/4bP8ZvGY4lk   

[NTRebel]

Both links come up this video is unavailable

[Cressida]

Both links come up this video is unavailable

This should work now, they were marked private before..Sorry

[CallMeSteve]

Top marks!  Looks nice and neat.  Should be good for another couple of hundred thousand kays.

[Biggles]

The second one is still unavailable.

Regarding the oil level being above the line, I wouldn't worry about it.  So long as you can see the top of the level it's fine.  Just worry when you can't see the top, because you have no idea how over-full it is.
That said, I've yet to own an ST that uses oil, so it will stay above the line until the next oil change (unless yours has badly worn rings- unlikely).

[Cressida]

The second one is still unavailable.

Second one available

Regarding the oil level being above the line, I wouldn't worry about it.  So long as you can see the top of the level it's fine.  Just worry when you can't see the top, because you have no idea how over-full it is.
That said, I've yet to own an ST that uses oil, so it will stay above the line until the next oil change (unless yours has badly worn rings- unlikely).

I am changing oil anyway with Castrol 4t (now placing helmet on head to prepare for flack incoming from other members) my brother has been a mechanic for 40+ years and he swears by Castrol products as a reasonable price lubricant especially when it comes to wet clutch system.

I am also going to try a Ryco Syntec filter as they are supposed to be superior and still cheaper than Ryco Motorcycle specific as Supercrap dropped the price.

I am going to flush all liquids, as they haven't been done for 7 years.

What process do you use for flushing cooling sytem, as I am going from green to Penrite 8y red, 50/50 distilled water and vinegar to remove all contaminants first after draining.

Flushing brakes and clutch, do you do rear, front and clutch?

Regards,

[Williamson]

......Regarding the oil level being above the line .....

An ST1300 owner mate (not an OzSTOcer - yeah, I know) concluded that the reason his speedo worked when cold but not hot, was due to 6 litres of oil instead of 4 litres, drained oil, topped-up correctly, speedo okay.  Not sure how that relates to the oil level in the window.

Mate has 30 years motorcycle workshop, Honda dealer, Honda Australia, parts & accessories experience, so (IMHO) has some cred.

[alans1100]

Both video clips worked for me just now but not last night; even after the links were changed from private.

Nothing wrong with Castrol. I use the Active 4T 15W-50 version.

For filters I have gone over to the Ryco RMZ 119 which I can only find on eBay. Even better is that the Honda filter tool fits it unlike other aftermarket filters that that I've used won't.

As long as the oil level is between the top two marks it'll be fine and unlike some that have not just make sure the bike is on the centre stand.

I flushed the coolant on the 1300 and even drained it via the two plugs in the block where only about I/2 (125ml) a cup total of green came out and I wondered if it was really worth the fuss. I've used Nulon long life (8 years) red in the 1100 for the last few years so the same stuff went into the 1300.

For brakes I'd just bleed the system which flushes at the same time and less risk of getting air into the system - same for clutch. Though I only bleed the brakes when I have put in new brake pads; even if it's a few months either side of the two year brake bleed recommendation.

That reminds me - must check the 1300's brake pad wear when the long awaited rain we're having buggers off.

[Cressida]

Thanks Alan, I intend to change front pads first. It has lasted seven years and brakes still feel ok.

I need to replace front and maybe back tyre soon anyway, depends how back handles wet being so old.

As for that Ryco Filter RMZ119 both Supercrap and Repco have them but at $22 and $19, it was cheaper to get Superior Ryco Syntec on special that is guaranteed for at least 15000km -20000. Even though I will probably still change oil at 5000 to 8000 depending on what it looks like after 5000.

Does anyone know what Amber telltale light is on dash in video labeled I?

Regards,

[alans1100]

Does anyone know what Amber telltale light is on dash in video labeled I?

Not sure about the Police as I have the 1100A (A = ABS) but apart from amber for the TCS (traction control) there is amber for (S) side stand down and another one for low fuel. Looking at the 1100 the low fuel is to the left of the side stand light - see image.
 Low fuel warning should come on when there's about 5 litres left in the tank.

[Cressida]

Bloody Eyes, it was an S as I had side stand down even though it was on center stand..Duh

What brake pad compound  ie: Organic, Sintered or Ceramic as Organic will be most friendly to Disc wear?

Regards,

[alans1100]

OEM (Honda) pads are sintered metal and I have tried ceramic pads which where quite ok before the current OEM set.

I think organic pads went in once as the dealer I went to mentioned they were cheaper but they only lasted about 20,000 km before putting OEM back in.

The disc on my 1100A are still original @ 218,000km with very little wear on the disc where on the 1300A  I can feel a slight ridge around the disc circumference @ 80,000 km; maybe lots of heavy braking by previous owner/s (????).

[Calsonic]

Thats value for money there. I hope I can find a good deal when I am ready to buy. :-)

[Cressida]

The second one is still unavailable.

Second one available

Regarding the oil level being above the line, I wouldn't worry about it.  So long as you can see the top of the level it's fine.  Just worry when you can't see the top, because you have no idea how over-full it is.
That said, I've yet to own an ST that uses oil, so it will stay above the line until the next oil change (unless yours has badly worn rings- unlikely).

I am changing oil anyway with Castrol 4t (now placing helmet on head to prepare for flack incoming from other members) my brother has been a mechanic for 40+ years and he swears by Castrol products as a reasonable price lubricant especially when it comes to wet clutch system.

I am also going to try a Ryco Syntec filter as they are supposed to be superior and still cheaper than Ryco Motorcycle specific as Supercrap dropped the price.

I am going to flush all liquids, as they haven't been done for 7 years.

What process do you use for flushing cooling sytem, as I am going from green to Penrite 8y red, 50/50 distilled water and vinegar to remove all contaminants first after draining.

Flushing brakes and clutch, do you do rear, front and clutch?

Regards,

Changed Oil and filter, oil still looked ok but now shows correct level, and am trying Ryco Syntec filter. No washer on sump plug.

Flushed Radiator and cooling system, and replaced with penrite Red 8yr premix hoses are still in good condition.

Changed rear diff oil with Penrite 80/90, old oil was still good.No washer on sump plug.

Still to do change front brake pads, and flush brakes and clutch fluid.

Repair fairing where it was cracked, and a couple of broken mounting points I found when I removed panels. ABS filler and ABS slurry should fix that.

I purchased a assorted bag of nuts bolts and clips etc for 2003 ST1100 from a wrecker on ebay. As some missing or wrong type used to attach fairing.

After genuine toolkit if anyone would like to pass theirs on?

I was wondering why the panniers seemed to be a bit loose (the four bolts that mount them to the frame were missing) now to remove back section?

So hopefully there will be no more surprises?

Waiting on Parking brake to arrive from UK.

Waiting on LED globes from ebay.

[Biggles]

Sounds like you're doing a great refurb job.  Very comprehensive!
Just harking back to the oil level matter- a few years ago one of our ex-members had a service done by a workshop which over-filled the oil.  His engine subsequently suffered damage (blew internal seals IIRC) which was a very expensive repair.  So yes, you need to be able to see the top of the oil level in the window.

[alans1100]

Sounds like you're doing a great refurb job.  Very comprehensive!
Just harking back to the oil level matter- a few years ago one of our ex-members had a service done by a workshop which over-filled the oil.  His engine subsequently suffered damage (blew internal seals IIRC) which was a very expensive repair.  So yes, you need to be able to see the top of the oil level in the window.

Wonder if they topped it up on the side stand; would make a difference.

Oil level image; anywhere between upper and lower marks is good and better if near the top one.

027 by Alan, on Flickr