YeSTerday,monday Abe came over as I was getting my alternator back. The rotor had burnt out and it needed re-wiring and then baking to seal it . we went and picked it up from Macarther Auto Electrical, where Chris was very helpful. They also replaced the internal regulator saying it was better to renew it because it could fail in the future from having reSTored power going thru it. The diodes where all good so no need to replace them, and as quoted all done for $320. A lot better than $1200 for a NEW one from David Silvers.
SO the rebuild began. Dave gave a few pointers like gentlly cleaning the 'O' ring seal and lightly greasing it and cleaning out any fine metal duST in the housing.
Dave greased the spline on the alternator with Honda molypaSTe, and carefully aligned the spline and with a little twiST here and there. it slide into position. we put the three bolts back in with a little locktite, and Dave tensioned the bolts to spec, 58Nm. I connected the main power lead and the 2 pin,only 1active though, plug on the back of the alternator. Next was to temporarily connect Fuel tank and Battery to teST the alternator. Battery read 12.8 charge before STarting, I hit the STart button and STranger fired up firST go, Dave then checked the charging and success it was reading 14.4 on the meter.
then out with the fuel tank to re-fit the freshly painted swing arm.I had cleaned the barrings and the barring seats, and Dave re greased both with my blue moly grease..
Dave greased the splines on the drive shaft, the drive shaft joint and the diff center with moly also, and we ckecked the rubber boot was on the correct way.We then,holding our tongues juST right lifted the swing arm angled a little to place the R side onto the recess it goes in, then partially wound in the right side pivot bolt to hold it while we located the left side and replaced the left pivot bolt.
Then we tensioned up the left pivot to 105Nm then the right pivot to 18Nm,and then the retainer caSTle nut using the special tools to 105Nm, attached the brake line to the swing-arm. I then put the drive hub on then mounted the shocky. then we fitted the rear wheel before doing up the 4 bolts tight to align the drive.
all good n tight n sitting right, oh and freshly painted. Then we drained the old oil from the drive hub and re-filled it with new.Dave suggested I re drain and fill it after my next ride.
Then I put the painted up tailpipes and towbar on
.
almoST done now.
Next thing was to bleed the rear brakes. I had STripped down his rear caliper and cleaned it all, and fitted new brake pads,we STarted STranger BRRMM BRMMM BRMMM Dave clicked him into gear and he STopped.the brakes were a little tight
the pads muST have been a little thicker. all that was left was for me to put all the plaSTics on. and ease of the brake grab.
Dave's guidance was not needed for this so after I said many thanks for his time and guidance and tools, grease,
I bid him farewell.
At this point I must also say a BIG THANX to saas, for the emails he sent on this job, Ruben for the special tools, Ian aka single for the manual, and another to Dave for guiding me thru all this, he has taught me well and given me confidence to assist other OzSTOCers who may need to remove their swing-arm and alternator. Also thanx to all who have had some input to this thread.
Today I finished assembling all the plaSTics, removed one spacer from the rear brake, and then took STranger out for a little ride to see how he felt. All good
we both got into the job and failed to STop and take lots of pics, although we did take a few all under Kimba's watchful gaze, she had us
she was asleep thru it all.
while STranger was apart I cleaned his frame and painted bits and pieces,
and fixed some broken plaSTics.
I was only left with these 2 fairing crush washers,all the bolts that needed them had them so I'm not sure why these are left over.
and STranger's back together ready for a ride
