Honda ST1300 Section > Brakes & Clutch ST1300

Dragging Front right Brakes

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PeteBycroft:
Hi all,  just new to the group and have read as many posts as i can regarding if my issue has already been solved.
Alas i haven't found a particular reason for my dilemma.
OK purchased my 02 ST 1300 4 weeks ago. Few problems such as burnt wiring due to dipsticks adding workarounds to problems. No other issues at all.....
Rode the bike 600 k's home, no faults other than heating my privates well above normal operating temperature. Had electrics seen to and fixed perfectly.
Started the next stage , change all fluids.
Brakes first , I have scoured the net for the correct steps and found all the correct ones. Purchased 2 bottles of Nulon Super Dot 4 and did the afternoon cracking/bleeding/over and over again and i stress in the correct order.
Took her out, gave her some breathing space and hung on. After 10 ks' felt like the bike just lost all power but after i pulled over found the right brake disc was blue and locking the front brake caliper (right side only) Lucky i had some tools onboard and cracked the right front top bleed nipple , let off the pressure and let it cool down and headed home. After 5 k's same thing happened. Right front disc overheats and locks the brakes.   After cracking the bleed nipple once more wheel was once again completely free.   Went home and have bled the brakes again only to have the same problem appear consistently. Have cleaned the caliper and checked the operation of all three pistons but still same problem.
I am hoping that anyone can help with something i haven't tried as i have tried just about everything but call the pope to eradicate the issue. 

Heres hoping. Thanks in advance .

Cheers Pete

alans1100:
Wondering if the wrong pads have been put in.

Rear pads are the same shape but thicker but in saying that two rear pads shouldn't fit in the front but you might get one front and one rear to fit.

Other than that, there's a delay valve on the RH fork above the calliper. The valve is there to make sure full braking is applied to the rear before the front but I doubt if that is the offender here.

Another possibility is lack of grease on a hidden slider pin which can only be lubricated by removing the calliper from the mount.

You have two bleeders on each front calliper; one from the front master and the other from the rear master. Taking note of which bleeder reduces the pressure could help in elimination the system at fault.

Brake system layout - minus the ABS modulators



Items 11 and 12 are the pins that could have their grease dry out and might cause the calliper to stick with items 13 and 14 being there to keep the grease drying out to quick.

Brock:
There may be an air bubble in the right brake, or a sticking piston. Open the right bleed valve and depress the lever slightly to displace any air, repeat for foot pedal.

As the air heats, it will press the pad onto the disk

PeteBycroft:
Thank you both Brock and allans1100
Thanks for the Diag and the pins 11 and 12 havent been done yet and i will break down the slave over the weekend and check these out.
When i purchased it i bought it with no RWC or rego from a dealer in Moree NSw
When talking with him he told me the owner of this bike had an accident falling off a truck and just wanted to get rid of the bike because he couldnt ride it anymore.
Over the past few days i have investigated where the bike did come from.
Last service was at 65,000 in 2013 now has 72,000 since then (5YRS must have sat for awhile).
I have a feeling that the bike became too difficult for the previous owner to work problems out and just wanted to get rid of it.
Dealer gave me a safety certificate (Not RWC) to get a permit to ride back to brissy.
The bike had no issues when i test rode it in Moree bout 20 k's
Rode it 550k's straight away from the test ride back to Brissy , no problems (except for No horn, no low beams, stop light didnt work on right hand brake and intermitent on right foot brake)
Absolutely no issues with brakes dragging on the way home at all.
Decided to change brake fluid with mechanic who didnt know the sequencing so may have been an issue in the beginning, but since then i have re bled them in the correct sequence with tilting the left brake caliper up to drain air at the right time.
By the way, when the front wheel is draggin its nearly impossible to turn it but when i crack the bleeder its the right front top that when is released free's the front wheel instantly and allows it to spin easy.
Also checked and cleaned all three pistons for in and out function , so your thoughts on 11 and 12 maybe right up the alley.

I will check this on the weekend and report back.
Thanks again

alans1100:
Looking in the manual the RH front bleeder is on the front brake system so that eliminates anything in connection with foot pedal.

So you have the front master and the hoses/pipes to the front callipers which in turn operate the two outer pistons.

The reason I suggested the pins is that e.g. if one has the grease dry out and the other one is ok then under braking the one end of the calliper would move as normal while the other end could eventually stick. If the calliper doesn't move then that end piston will keep braking.

If lack of lubrication on the pins is the issue then it may pay to do the LH and rear as well which I have to do on my 1100 as well.

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