Author Topic: "Clutch"ing at straws ??? (Read 6814 times)

Pezzz · « **on:** November 04, 2013, 10:01:35 AM »

Hey gurus, i have been fighting this for a while now and even spoke to a couple of the guys at an RTE a while back but it seems that my clutch is actually knackered.
I switched from the standard oil to HPR15 as per Brock's info and what a difference that made to the gear change clunk. Virtually gone from 3rd up and only occasional in 1-2.
Anyhow... went for a little run on Saturday night and on the highway on the way home I went to give it a good run from the lights (had a couple of other bikes with me) and noticed clutch slipped very badly. Basically, bike took off like a rocket, then when revs got to about 4 they slipped straight up to 8 until i backed off then the power came back in. I tested again by waiting until i was in 5th around 100km/hr and then opened throttle and sure enough same thing - revs went up fast, speed on bike increased very slowly. I then dropped back a couple of cogs and opened up and same thing again !!
So.... anyone got an idea on where to get a new clutch?
Bike is still under warranty so i will see what they have to say as well but wondering if they will try the "you changed the oil type" card...

Bike is a 2000 model ex police and has now done just under 54000km.
Best regards to all.
Pezzz

alans1100 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 04, 2013, 12:37:25 PM »

Which HPR15 did you use?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-HPR-15-Engine-Oil-15W-60-5-Litre.aspx?pid=0083#Combo

or this one.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-HPR-15-Diesel-Engine-Oil-15W-50-5-Litre.aspx?
pid=123725&menuFrom=60105#Cross

Clutch slippage sounds like your using the one in the first link as the second link for diesel oil meets wet clutch standards.

-------------

And I just found this one HPR DIESEL 10 (10W-40) Semi Syn. at the Penrite site

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=580

Pezzz · « **Reply #2 on:** November 04, 2013, 04:32:04 PM »

Hi Alans1100,
I am using the second one HPRDiesel 15 Semi Synthetic 15W-50 (Extra Ten Full Zinc blah blah blah).

Just took it to where i bought it and the guys there (1 who has worked on STs since they came out) were astonished that the clutch is actually slipping (verified by their mechanic).
STealer wants $525 for new clutch kit. Looks like i can get from fleabay for around $300 delivered from UK. Anyone got any better ideas?
Has anyone actually changed one?? (i think i may have to get a manual and maybe one of them clutch removal tool zingy things....)

alans1100 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 04, 2013, 05:35:28 PM »

Here's the manual download link if that helps

http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53770433/ST1100_Manual.pdf

Pezzz · « **Reply #4 on:** November 04, 2013, 07:18:10 PM »

SweeT.... Will have a look at that before I decide if I tackle myself...
Thank you very much. This is why I recommend this forum so much.....

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

saaz · « **Reply #5 on:** November 05, 2013, 11:42:15 AM »

I haven't changes one myself, but the trickiest bit is the castellated clutch centre nut. It is punched to stop it loosening. Usually putting the bike in gear and using the rear brake to stop the clutch turning let you loosen the nut. All the rest of the work is just taking off bits and putting them back on. I could probably find an article on doing it if that would help.

Pezzz · « **Reply #6 on:** November 05, 2013, 11:47:26 AM »

Hey Saaz,
Thanks for that, I just saw a write up on ST-Riders and Alan has been kind enough to share a manual for me to double check.
Looks ok to do.
Honda shop want $525 for clutch kit. Looking on Ebay I see full kit for $271 plus $26 postage from UK. plus gasket.
Anyone got any preferred supplier for this sort of thing?
Cheers in advance.

saaz · « **Reply #7 on:** November 05, 2013, 11:55:43 AM »

The ST-riders article by Thans says it all really.

Wombat · « **Reply #8 on:** November 06, 2013, 09:17:40 PM »

Pezzz
I have a manual (never been used) and a lot of tools if you need them. I can help as I will be pulling the front off mine soon for a timing belt so practice makes perfect. Ring anytime
Wombat

Pezzz · « **Reply #9 on:** November 06, 2013, 09:22:52 PM »

Wow. ... I still need to order clutch kit and gasket. Thanks. ... Will keep you posted.

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Wombat · « **Reply #10 on:** November 07, 2013, 11:34:31 AM »

Pezzz
The manual also recommends to replace that centre nut. I Need to look at this further

pault · « **Reply #11 on:** November 07, 2013, 07:39:26 PM »

make one of these, 2 ft long as recomended in haynes manual, works a treat with a bit of wood jammed in outer end to hold in place, easier than locking rear brake, get a new nut, they are cheap enough, be careful when turning basket to mesh gear and get drive to oil pump OK. would be easier without front wheel and forks(sic), it really does not take long, more time getting up and down to get tools.

Wombat · « **Reply #12 on:** November 09, 2013, 11:28:00 AM »

pezzz
I dont know how long till you do the clutch but it may pay to drop the diesel oil and put a sunthetic in to see if there is any difference. The thinking is go back to a lighter oil. I know added expence but you could also reuse later

RexJ · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2013, 08:35:57 PM »

Hey troops. I've not ridden das machine for a few weeks and my clutch has just about gone . Next to no clutch at all.

a) any advice and b) anyone know someone in west Brisvegas who could venture to my place to fix said problem?

I need a clutch to go buy a new back tyre so I can go riding on an RTE that's on a weekend free calendar. That's the hard bit - the calendar thingy.

saaz · « **Reply #14 on:** November 15, 2013, 09:24:33 PM »

Probably needs a bleed of the clutch hydraulic circuit (same as doing the brakes). Need to drop the belly pan, after that easy. Just make sure that no air gets in as it can be a pain to get rid of the air.

If it is really bad may need a slave cylinder rebuilt kit.

Brock · « **Reply #15 on:** November 15, 2013, 10:01:13 PM »

Quote

my clutch has just about gone

More info Rex,

Is it slipping, not engaging when handle is released, or not pulling in when handle is squeezed in??

Tipsy · « **Reply #16 on:** November 16, 2013, 06:06:00 AM »

py
usually when I loose something I dont bother looking for as I know I wont find it.
so I just forget about it and I eventually find it right where I left it.

Tipsy

Pezzz · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2014, 10:32:22 PM »

OK.. so the STealership wanted $450 for clutch plates only.
Wombat put me on to David Silver Spares and last Thursday (30/1/2014) I ordered Clutch Kit with all plates, springs and gasket as well as Basket Nut (gets deformed on installation) and washer for a total price delivered to my door of $216 give or take.......

That is not the best bit !!!!!!
It arrived today !!!!!!! How does something get from UK to here faster than a jacket i ordered from Phillip Island ????
So ....... Wombat !!!! ?????

Whenever you are ready ... do you think we should wait until after Northcliffe ????

Wombat · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2014, 02:34:11 PM »

Sunday morning after Northcliffe

When else

Pezzz · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2014, 04:32:21 PM »

Quote from: Wombat on February 04, 2014, 02:34:11 PM

Sunday morning after Northcliffe
When else

Will check with the social planner and let you know. Thanks again. Not something i really want to tackle on my own yet.

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Author Topic: "Clutch"ing at straws ??? (Read 6814 times)