OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Electrics & Electronics - Volts, Amps and Fuses ST1100 => Topic started by: Cesspool on July 25, 2015, 12:45:22 PM
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This bike has a rather serious problem when cold. The front brakes apply themselves and the engine reduces its power. It seems to shut off two cylinders and the brake lever goes hard as a rock.
If I apply a 8mm spanner to the rh bleed nipple to release the fluid pressure all becomes well.
This usually happens just once within 5km of starting out, but sometimes she does it again after abt 20km, then we are OK for the rest of the day.
While warming up with the choke on the ignition timing seems to wander all over the place. Cylinders come and go, and sometimes that brake lever locks on before taking off.
Lights behave normally. The amber warning lights correctly extinguish after 2sec and the red lights extinguish after moving off.
I have cleaned the TCS unit connectors and checked and cleaned the fuses.
The TCS OFF switch has no effect on this behaviour, or anything else, for that matter.
The TCS unit has a PCB that has been "potted" in clear epoxy. I can't see any burning or other mischief there.
Anyone had this type of insanity before??
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Once the bike is running, you could probably reduce the choke to off (rarely use mine) you may be over fueling.
My be an idea to bleed/flush the brakes, I havent heard of brakes locking due to cold, usually happens on hot days. Dont know about the TCS system.
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The brake and ignition symptoms seem coordinated, which makes me suspect TCS.
This bike will not idle until it has been running for 10min.
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Nothing like that on mine has happened though I sometimes get an ABS warning light come on. About 3 or 4 times in the last four years but it clears on restart: usually.
TCS also means ABS as well (the red lights are the system check and go out when under way) The only other unknown is what year is your bike. 96 and newer has CBS (combined brakes) added. Triple pot callipers would be the easiest way to tell. 1100AS is 1995 and has two pot callipers and no CBS.
I did have one instance in the past where the engine seemed to have lost power within a few km from home but it turned out that I had left the choke on when riding off.
Brakes could be anything but I suspect that either the master or the calliper pistons might be sticking. Won't hurt to overhaul them and replace all the fluids. Could be a blocked fluid return hole in the master as well......Others may come up with more as my brakes have been fault free since the bike was new.
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The brake and ignition symptoms seem coordinated, which makes me suspect TCS.
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Not quite right......
The wheel sensors are for both ABS and TCS.
While running the ABS computer monitors the wheels and prevents wheel lock up under E braking conditions.
The TCS uses the same senses to detect wheel spin and cuts power to prevent the spin. As with ABS it monitors both wheels so if it detects that the rear wheel is spinning faster than normal compared to the front then the TCS is activated until normal conditions and the goes back to monitoring.
It's possible you have a faulty TCS spark unit which is located behind the headlight. This will give you an idea of the lay out but it is for mine http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-fairing-stay-st1100ax.html (http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-fairing-stay-st1100ax.html)
This is the earlier version http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-fairing-stay-st1100as.html (http://www.st-1100.com/st1100-parts-fiche-fairing-stay-st1100as.html) ...... not much different except for the ABS Motor Driver unit that I have.
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It would be nice to test this by temporarily replacing each unit to see if the problem goes away.
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I will do a f brake ohaul and service f rotation sensor when the wheel comes off for some new rubber. What is everyone's favourite f tyre?
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Pilot road 4 GTs on my 1100, they feel nice, supposed to last well but not cheap.
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I will do a f brake ohaul and service f rotation sensor when the wheel comes off for some new rubber. What is everyone's favourite f tyre?
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Have a browse through the forum and you'll find lots of threads about tyres. Here's a good start... http://ozstoc.com/index.php?board=70.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?board=70.0) or http://ozstoc.com/index.php?board=12.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?board=12.0)
Many are using PR3's and 4's and I get over 20,000km from them.
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Thanks bloke i'm a fairly sedate rider who only gets out the warp factor 9 whipping stick on special occasions
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