Honda ST1300 Section > Suspension ST1300
Rear Shock Removal
Down Under:
This is part of my on going project to upgrade my ST1300's suspension. Hope these pics help with anyone contemplating the same. I found that it was a straight forward job but having access to the Haynes Service & Repair Manual for the ST1300 sure made life easier.
First step is to place the bike on the centrestand and chock the front wheel. You'll then need to find something to support the swing arm. I used my car jack which worked perfectly, allowing me to make fine adjustments to take enough weight of the rear shock mounting bolt so I could remove it.
Remove side cowls and muffler. Unbolt rear brake reservoir from bracket and push aside. Remove battery and unscrew the bolts which attach the footrest bracket to frame. You'll also need to remove a small bolt which sits directly beneath the battery, now the footrest bracket will be free enough to let you get at the shock's lower mounting bolt.
A pic of the lower mounting bolt which can be a bugger to get out. I used a ring spanner on the bolt head and a 17mm socket with extensions from the left side to undo the nut.
Getting at the nut on the top mounting bolt is tricky. I found the easiest way was to lift the tank and go in through the area shown. You've got to be careful withdrawing the nut once it's unscrewed, otherwise it'll be lost in the abyss below it.
Back across to the other side of the bike. Remove the cowl which houses the preload adjuster. Remove the preload adjuster knob very slowly so you don't lose the small ball bearing which locates the knob on the adjuster body. I taped the bearing on the body after removal so I wouldn't lose it. Unscrew 2 bolts which attach the preload adjuster to frame. Before withdrawing the preload adjuster take note of the way the hose is routed. I used a peice of nylon rope to follow the hose so I wouldn't forget how to locate it when I reinstalled the shock.
The preload adjuster hose routing is the devils work. I had to loosen the seat bracket to make enough room to pull it through. Now you can pull out the shock with bit of jiggling.
Check the spacer in the lower moun on the swingarm for too much free play. I removed the spacer, gave it a clean, as well as the roller bearings and gave them a fresh application of some high temperature bearing grease.
Here's a comparison pic of the OEM Racetech shock on the right and the Wilbers shock that'll be replacing it.
New shock in position. Mr Honda recommends replacing the top and lower mounting bolts as they're treated with their special thread locking chemical. I gave the thread of both bolts a clean and applied some loctite which I reckon will do the job. I placed some liquid paper marks across the top bolt/frame, as well the lower nut/bolt and frame and I'll watch it for any signs of movement.
The Wilbers shock preload adjuster + oil reservoir with high/low speed compression damping adjusters.
Now for some good weather to check it all out!
Brock:
Good write up..
:thumbsup :thumbsup
saaz:
I can see know why ST13 has heavier spring rates on the rear, as it at more of an angle than the ST11 shock. That Wilbers shock looks trick! European riders like them, and seems they are now more available.
Diesel:
Thanks for the great and informative post Down Under - be sure to let us know your new lap time around Mt Panorama with the new shock!!! :wink1
Cheers, Diesel
Down Under:
--- Quote from: saaz on February 26, 2012, 10:46:07 AM ---I can see know why ST13 has heavier spring rates on the rear, as it at more of an angle than the ST11 shock. That Wilbers shock looks trick! European riders like them, and seems they are now more available.
--- End quote ---
I was really impressed with the quality of the Wilbers shock, it's a work of art but you pay for it.
I could've bought one for a lot less if I purchased direct from O/S but the problem is they're valved for smooth European roads. I had this shock rebuilt/revalved by a highly recommended motorycle shock specialist in Sydney to suite our rough road conditions.
I'm trying not to get too excited until I give it some serious road testing.
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