OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: tj189 on December 12, 2013, 11:46:10 AM
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Well for some time I have had the F light come on and give the fault code for the map sensor. I would clear the error code and be on my way, a month later it might pop up again. Research had shown that there was a good chance it may have been an issue with the 5 way connector under the air filter compartment. Today I attacked the bike. There is a link with photos (not mine) to show where this connector actually is:
http://koczarski.com/ST1300/FI%20Error/MAPerror.htm (http://koczarski.com/ST1300/FI%20Error/MAPerror.htm)
and a photo of the gunk that came out of mine
(http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv353/TeeJay_019/20131212_110814_zps83ab29db.jpg) (http://s699.photobucket.com/user/TeeJay_019/media/20131212_110814_zps83ab29db.jpg.html)
well worth the effort to dig in there and clean it out. the gunk was only in one part which blocked two hoses.
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Thanks for the great post. :thumb
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It was raining this afternoon, so, inspired by TJ's success I decided to bite the proverbial bullet. I'd had the FI light event a while back, and the ST has seemed to run a bit ratty on the highway lately- just the suggestion of surging.
I hate pulling it all to bits slightly less than putting it all together, but today was worse than usual. You know "the last xx" syndrome? The last screw that won't budge, for example? I had 22 of the 23 screws out, but the last one on the tube that bolts to the throttle body refused to budge. The Phillips head was beginning to suffer, so I brought out the heavy hitter which also failed to budge it. I only had the "drill it out" option left and lost an hour to that, damaging the plastic in the effort. Then it was the dive into the bowels of the throttle bodies to removed the 5 way connector. Mine was completely clean! All that pain for nothing! I ran out of daylight and interest and put the cover over the disemboweled bike. At this stage the damaged plastic component is in the vice while the JBWeld sets- the product claims to stick PVC and other plastics. I need a stop gap while I source a new part. Guess I'll need a new screw too. It has a 7mm shoulder to accommodate the plastic fitting. Probably not one on the local Honda shop's shelf.
Not happy, Jan. About the only plus from the exercise was the opportunity to clean the bugs out of the air filter. Didn't need to remove the last 16 screws to get to that!
Further confirmation that my fourth career won't be any sort of mechanic!
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I'll have to have a look at this while I'm doing the Cruise control this weekend. Very timely.
:blu13
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Bit of a bugger Biggles. At least you know that is not the issue, normal fault finding process >:()
Good opportunity Malcolm, the cruise control fits in nicely there.
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F1 light map sensor?
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F1 light map sensor?
It's a common error. The light is actually an FI light, pertaining to the Fuel Injector system.
Perhaps a subconscious association with racing cars?
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Great description ++ The positioning of the 5 way seems to be part of the problem, as deposits can collect over time. Well worth checking if the bike is apart for any other maintenance or farkles.
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Great pix Abe.
Your pic #2 is worth noting. I struggled to disconnect the 5 ways connector reaching around and under those leads.
Your point about marking leads is a good one. A method I've used is the brush that comes with white correcting fluid. There are also white correcting pens. The mark isn't permanent, but it's durable enough to complete the job.
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Great post Abe :clap
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++
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Nice post Dave :thumb
SMturtle
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Awesome work mate, thanks for posting mate, I'm sure it'll come in handy :-++ :-++ :-++
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Seems like 50K or more is where this happens, so could be something to do just in case.
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The bike has been perfect since, thank you Abe :KissBlow but I should point out that the lady who bought the coffee out to the shed, held the torch and camera helped too :Stirpot
Pockey ;-*
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You are correct again Pockey, and thank you. But did you notice that I did not mention (yet) what was hanging on my bike aerial drying :think1 :think1, just saying. (have photo, just saying)
I plan to clean my bike's "5 way" next week (or two) as Saaz said around 50K seems to be the go.
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Is this done just by lifting the tank? and then some :|||| and a bit of :cuss ???
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Tank, Airfilter cover (top), Air filter, Trumpets, Air filter cover (bottom) and disconnect a few sensors to make a little more room........mark everything before disconecting unless you have a photographic memory.......take you a hour or two, follow Abe's instructions and you wont have a issue. ;-*
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Well I planned to carry this maintenance out this weekend. So on the way home on Friday I stopped at a Tobacconists and bought Pipe Cleaners ($2.50)
I was getting the FI light flashing twice, not idling when cold, smelling of un-burnt fuel when running rough with the FI light permanently on and poor furl economy. This usually occurred when the ambient temperature was below 25 °C.
When I took off the air filter cover I discovered someone had marked all the trumpets for me. :grin
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UjUazjeKoG8/U0i9auuQBgI/AAAAAAAAAzM/-fSbqzdIElY/s640/2014-04-12-043.jpg)
I'm glad I performed this maintenance because when I lifted the K&N air filter out I found Sand and Gravel under the filter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1vLMx-q1e6c/U0i9dErmuhI/AAAAAAAAAzc/xFOcppPko14/s640/2014-04-12-044.jpg)
Like Biggles, I had a drama with the last screw being stubborn, but before I put to much strain on it, I remembered and old trick of hitting the handle of the screw driver to "crack" the bind. Viola, one loosened screw.
Before I removed the Fuel injection connectors and the MAP hose connectors, I marked the rails so I could remember which one was which.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6niWWtAqvdk/U0i9bsLxyOI/AAAAAAAAAzU/ZiLF2-lglpI/s640/2014-04-12-045.jpg)
After I got the MAP hoses out, I was uncertain that the pipe cleaners I had bought would fit, and then had the idea of using a round Toothpick. All most a perfect fist like a piston in a cylinder and this is what came out. The "wax" is really carbonised thickened oil.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rus1uYKzHAw/U0i9myc-nWI/AAAAAAAAAzk/TQWPyjIA_7c/s640/2014-04-12-048.jpg)
After I got that out, I gave the pipe cleaner a go (dipped in Metho) and it cleaned the 5-way adapter out perfectly.
As I was pulling it all apart I was trying to work out a way of preventing this happening again. I think because the 5-way is below the manifold connectors that the oil drains into the 5-way, so as I re-assembled it, I put the 5 way above the Fuel injector cables to Cylinder 1 and 2 like this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f1lryUxgpm8/U0i9pGO2AdI/AAAAAAAAAzw/SXQYxp5CXRI/s640/2014-04-12-049.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JzNugzDRL1E/U0i9pRh8MBI/AAAAAAAAAz0/AzykL78P4Fc/s640/2014-04-12-050.jpg)
Hopefully this will prevent it happening again as the hoses are a larger internal diameter.
The end result though, is a bike that starts first crank again!!! :grin ++
"Oh so happy!!" :runyay
Thanks to Chris, Abe and TJ for the solution. Winter this year will be a pleasant experience.
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My son and I did the "5ways" today and it was as clean as a whistle.
Also did the fuel filter (rubber gasket/2 banjo washers), fuel filter clean and no contaminates of any kind.
Bike has done 50647km.
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The solution of some has been to relocate the 5 way connection to see if it solves the problem by removing the low point. It would be interesting to see what factors lead to come doing it and others not. Have to have a look at a diagram of the fuel system to get some ideas (ie overfilling the tank and not heading off for a while, bikes parked in places where there is a greater temperature variation (Guyra vs Sydney) and such.
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mine was stalling when cold - began intermittently and progressively got worse.
Followed these instructions and sure enough pushed a 5mm plug of crap out of the connector.
Thanks guys - Chris you're left one is safe:-)
:rd13
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mine was stalling when cold - began intermittently and progressively got worse.
Followed these instructions and sure enough pushed a 5mm plug of crap out of the connector.
Thanks guys - Chris you're left one is safe:-)
:rd13
Excellent news mate, thanks for letting us know :like
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A big thank you to Tim TDing for helping me with my bike, was lots of fun getting into the throttle body's! We even discovered that there had been a rat in the bike and chewed some wiring which we repaired along the way, Teela keeping us watered and fed was awesome
the hoses where cleaner than expected, but the FI light has gone away, and we got in and gave everything a clean up and the bike is better for it
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/1454776_789917267771513_7717206558560292820_n_zpsznryobnp.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/10421529_789917294438177_2150741442558270972_n_zpsbyyl1hns.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/11222421_789917337771506_3276092974985072902_n_zpsyl6ttn3t.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/10986974_789917367771503_5077573164694139052_n_zpsazuqjxx7.jpg)
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I'm glad you got it sorted out. Rats in the bike :cuss
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Nice one :thumb
RATS !! and brownie points to who ever posts why rats like this hiding hole in the ST ?? And it's not just the warmth and dark :think1
:popcorn
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a worthwhile clean up there, rats and all
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Very well done guys :clap :clap :clap
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It's a substantial project getting right down in the guts. Goodonya!
As for why rats move into vehicles- they bikes come home in Winter and keep their nice warmth under the cowls for hours. The rats detect the heat from their roost in the rafters and move in. They find the canteen never opens so they eat the furniture.
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A big thanks to all who put their input to this thread!
My newly purchased bundle of toy had the occasional FI light problem with 2 flashes a few days apart (the problem that is, not the time between the two flashes!). Followed the instructions and found the "5-way wax" (60,000 kms on the clock). Took me over 2 hours because I'm not really mechanically minded (stubborn, though), but the instructions were spot on of course. Did it on a cold Adelaide day, so the tubes connecting the 5-way were immovable at first, but a heat gun from around 30cm away on low setting softened them up enough to slide off and, later, on easily for me. Was more worried about damaging the tubes with heat, so probably over cautious there; better safe than sorry, &c.
What a great resource this forum is! :-++
Scanning the threads for the next weekend project now...
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A big thanks to all who put their input to this thread!
My newly purchased bundle of toy had the occasional FI light problem with 2 flashes a few days apart (the problem that is, not the time between the two flashes!). Followed the instructions and found the "5-way wax" (60,000 kms on the clock). Took me over 2 hours because I'm not really mechanically minded (stubborn, though), but the instructions were spot on of course. Did it on a cold Adelaide day, so the tubes connecting the 5-way were immovable at first, but a heat gun from around 30cm away on low setting softened them up enough to slide off and, later, on easily for me. Was more worried about damaging the tubes with heat, so probably over cautious there; better safe than sorry, &c.
What a great resource this forum is! :-++
Scanning the threads for the next weekend project now...
Hey Blerko.... Did it fix the problem?
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After one week... so far... so good! Originally, once it was running it seemed ok but when the error appeared it would take some coaxing to stay idling with a bit of assistance with the throttle for the first 30 seconds. No error since, but I'll give it another week to be sure it's better. No screws or parts left over after my first delve into the guts, too, so that's nice 8)
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Good work blerko.....brilliant the members of the forum saved you some coin, and you got to get just a liitle closer to your ST :like
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Hope I have posted this in the right place, for some time now have had the F1 light coming on and off,(two blinks). while the F1 light was on the bike ran ok, when it was off bike was a handfull to ride would not idle at all. seemed to have a little miss as well.
After some research on here I decide to clean the 5 ways connector it was clogged with gunk, all cleaned out. problem sovled. bike running great so far. Thank's everyone for the helpful stuff posted on the forums helps us none mechanical people save some money.
I did have some trouble with a couple of the screws they were really hard to get out(the bottom cover before i could access the 5 ways sorry not sure what its called), look's like someone had had a go at the screws before me. small cold chisel and a decent hammer, got the job done.
:13Candy
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The screws look like Phillips, but the single dot indicates they are JIS.
(http://www.agcoauto.com/content/images/fastener/screws_JIS_phillips_pozidriv.jpg)
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Good find, Gadget. Without the dot you wouldn't pick the difference. It seems to be all about the angle of the grooves on the screwdriver and perhaps the depth it reaches into the head.
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I think I read elsewhere that Phillips Head Drivers are designed to cam out of the screw head if excessive pressure is applied, while JIS allows a greater force to be applied without camming out of the screw head.
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Filing the tip of a 2 point Phillips will get you close enough to a JIS in a pinch ;-*
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Good find, Gadget. Without the dot you wouldn't pick the difference. It seems to be all about the angle of the grooves on the screwdriver and perhaps the depth it reaches into the head.
Thats why they would not come out thank you.
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Well it has been just short of 2 years and that bloody F1 light with the map sensor error started again and bugger me it happened just as I was about to hop on and ride to work this morning.
Well got home this afternoon and straight into the five way connector, I could see through the the connector and all was clear so I left the single connector open and blocked off three of the other inlets and blew into the connector, no air coming out, shoved a bit of wire in and did the same to all the other bits, put it back together and low and behold all fixed again. I put the connector up a bit higher this time so we will see how it goes.
From memory that lasted around 60 - 70 thousand K's
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Well it has been just short of 2 years and that bloody F1 light with the map sensor error started again and bugger me it happened just as I was about to hop on and ride to work this morning.
Well got home this afternoon and straight into the five way connector, I could see through the the connector and all was clear so I left the single connector open and blocked off three of the other inlets and blew into the connector, no air coming out, shoved a bit of wire in and did the same to all the other bits, put it back together and low and behold all fixed again. I put the connector up a bit higher this time so we will see how it goes.
From memory that lasted around 60 - 70 thousand K's
I used pipe cleaners and metho on mine and mounted above the injector cables.
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Well it has been just short of 2 years and that bloody F1 light with the map sensor error started again and bugger me it happened just as I was about to hop on and ride to work this morning.
Well got home this afternoon and straight into the five way connector, I could see through the the connector and all was clear so I left the single connector open and blocked off three of the other inlets and blew into the connector, no air coming out, shoved a bit of wire in and did the same to all the other bits, put it back together and low and behold all fixed again. I put the connector up a bit higher this time so we will see how it goes.
From memory that lasted around 60 - 70 thousand K's
I used pipe cleaners and metho on mine and mounted above the injector cables.
Yep, put mine there now too. Got the idea from you after I posted the original post, so thank you :thumb
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CRAP CRAP CRAP,
I think this maybe my problem.
No spark to the plugs and the FI light constantly on and it won't kick over
I'm at a loss, I have a guy coming around to take a look, might have to look at this.
(http://i.imgur.com/WSLukGh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8lxtt5G.jpg)
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Lucky you don't have far to travel to get to work Marcus :grin
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CRAP CRAP CRAP,
I think this maybe my problem.
No spark to the plugs and the FI light constantly on and it won't kick over
I'm at a loss, I have a guy coming around to take a look, might have to look at this.
([url]http://i.imgur.com/WSLukGh.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/8lxtt5G.jpg[/url])
Doesn't sound 5-ways mate.....if the fuel pump relay isn't energising when you turn the key look at battery voltage if that's all good there is a wire in the loom the goes from the engine cut off to fuel pump relay that can be by-passed as it rubs through somewhere....
Battery, Cutoff switch, side stand and then the bypass would be my humble 5cents worth :KissBlow
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Marcus, try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, reconnect, and try and start.
ST2UP and I did a "how to" thing to clean the 5 ways.
Curious, were you starting on the side stand or centre stand, how many km's?
Good Luck
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Have you tried reading/clearing out the codes from the computer?.
I recently had a problem where the bike wouldnt start for several minutes and was on the point of the battery giving up altogether before it kicked. Once I cleared the codes it fired immediately on cold start.
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Have you tried reading/clearing out the codes from the computer?.
I recently had a problem where the bike wouldnt start for several minutes and was on the point of the battery giving up altogether before it kicked. Once I cleared the codes it fired immediately on cold start.
How do I do that?
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As per attached doco from the manual
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A quick bump and thank you for this useful topic. A newish (to me) ST1300 that was starting to stall when cold became a real pain as the idle speed was unstable and the bike starting to stall at times when warm. A quick check and clean of the five way fitting and it's all sweet again. :rd13
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A quick bump and thank you for this useful topic. A newish (to me) ST1300 that was starting to stall when cold became a real pain as the idle speed was unstable and the bike starting to stall at times when warm. A quick check and clean of the five way fitting and it's all sweet again. :rd13
Well done with that- not many people actually find gunk in there, but when it's there, removing it solves problems.
"Cute" of you to say "a quick check". For me it's anything but quick getting down into the guts of the ST. First the tank bra has to come off. Then just wrestling the tank back past my bar risers is a struggle. Then the real work begins.
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It's issues like this that I'm glad I have an 1100 but even they can have carby issues as well
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I have bar risers as well, I find as long as I back off the nut that clamps the back of the tank and the. Wiggle it towards the back of the bike as far as it will go before raising it I don't have a problem.
The air cleaner assembly came out ok, I found I had to disconnect the fuel injector cables to get my fingers down to the five way. Got it done in the evening after work, hour to an hour and a half all up. I consider that a quick job with no major mech components. YMMV