OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Honda ST1300 General Questions => Topic started by: Weggy13 on March 08, 2021, 08:43:26 AM
-
Hi all,
I have just recently (2 weeks ago) acquired a 2003 ST1300 on the advice of everyone I talked to about them. Great ride, although I’ve only done school drop off and work trips, but I have a problem with the F1 lights showing code 25, right knock sensor. Haven’t had a chance to take the fairings off and check sensor etc but the other problem I have is that riding to work this morning (approx 70km trip) and a couple of time last week, it feels as if the bike is either getting too much or not enough fuel. On the Highway at 80-100, accelerating fees like the engine is going to stall out, coughing and farting, nearly bucking me off. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in on Saturday with a full tank thinking perhaps stale fuel from previous owner, no help so far. Bike seemed to be going fine before accelerating hard off the line at lights and staring the f1 light. Any help appreciated with any light anyone may be able to shed? Another seperate question is I have a small black box attached under my seat, unsure if anyone can(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/c6e130ced06d776802d9e2c846fee33f.jpg)
any light on what this may be, photo attached.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/e37f915602a0db4422aa23dcd462b66d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/7fc42c0a8f66cfb4853c1f48f12ab5eb.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Dont know what the black box is. The F1 error 25/26 will most likely be caused by an ECU error and the only way to fix it is to replace the ECU.
In the interim, if the F1 illuminates then you need to shut off the power and restart otherwise the ECU runs in limp mode. I used to do this regularly by pulling in the clutch, flicking off the handle bar power switch, then flick it back on and restart.
I managed to pick up a second hand ECU which solved my F1 problem. I had already replaced some of the knock sensor wiring and one of the plugs to no avail.
-
I don’t suppose it as easy as sourcing another ecu and plugging it in? Also what is an ecu worth if anyone knows? Sorry, extremely new to this and probably asking questions that have already been answered multiple times.
-
If start with making sure the 5-way vacuum hose connector is clear.
It connects the inlets to the MAP sensor which in turn connects to the ECU.
It is a simple(ish) job, costing little, and there is a detailed "How To" with photos here on the forum.
The 5-way gets suits in the valley and unfortunately was mounted low, so any fuel left in the manifold on shut-down can drain into the connector and over time, the additives accumulate as a thick waxy paste.
Once the 5-way proven clean and clear, and if it doesn't solve the problem, then look for more expensive solutions.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
Actually it is as easy as plugging in a replacement ecu. You'll also need the key (and chip) that matchess the ecu hiss.
-
Here is the link to cleaning the 5 way connector Gadget was talking about:
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=5870.msg76631#msg76631 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=5870.msg76631#msg76631)
And here is a guide on how to reset the ECU which will clear the error:
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=11334.0)
I hope this helps :thumbsup
Cheers
Shiney
-
Thanks for all the help guys, I’ll give the 5 ways a go and also double check my k&n filter as I have read they can be problematic depending on the cover of it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for all the help guys, I’ll give the 5 ways a go and also double check my k&n filter as I have read they can be problematic depending on the cover of it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chuck your k&N filter in the bin and get an OEM filter or good quality paper filter.
-
Quick update to this one for anyone interested. I found out what the black box is, it is a http://www.tficontrollers.com/TFI-support.asp (http://www.tficontrollers.com/TFI-support.asp)
I think this thing may be contributing to my lousy fuel consumption (approx 270 from last tank) and overfuelling / fouling the clutch side plugs / possibly triggering the knock sensor, I have replaced both sensors but I’m still getting the dreaded fi code 25. I’m starting to think I’ve possibly been sold a lemon. :cuss
-
That's terrible fuel consumption. Have you removed the black box?.
I just got used to not revving over 4200 rpm and on the odd occasion that I did, reset it on-the-go as I mentioned above. Normal cruising I get over 500km/tank.
These bikes are getting old now, so there are more turning up as part-outs. Just keep an eye out for a <2008 model (ECU changed around then).
-
Hmmm, a compression test might be in order.
Any worn rings, I know that's rare on these bikes, however; if it sat idle for too many months, there may have been metallic bonding, and resulting low compression.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
I have an ECU and 2 keys. For the cost of postage I am happy to lend it to you to try. If it works happy to sell it to you.
-
I have an ECU and 2 keys. For the cost of postage I am happy to lend it to you to try. If it works happy to sell it to you.
Mate, that would be amazing, I will see if I can work out how to send you a direct message. Cheers.
-
I have an ECU and 2 keys. For the cost of postage I am happy to lend it to you to try. If it works happy to sell it to you.
Mate, that would be amazing, I will see if I can work out how to send you a direct message. Cheers.
I have sent you an email and a pm with my phone number.
-
So a quick update to this thread if anyone is interested, I found out what the fuel consumption problem was, it was the tfi box which was promptly removed, similar to an off brand power commander only it can only add more fuel, not adjust down. The rough running problem turned out to be a rusted out fuel pump / tank. Had the pump replaced, injectors sonically cleaned and tank cleaned out, put in the replacement ecu from Glen (thank you legend) as mine was still throwing the 25 code, and now runs like a dream. Any recommendations on a mechanic in the Brisbane / Ipswich area that specialises in these bikes? All in all a fairly expensive lesson learned from a dodgy prior owner that didn’t maintain the bike. Such a shame as they are beautiful machines when running properly…
-
I had the 25/26 error on my bike for ages. Eventually got a replacement ECU from a wreck which fixed the problem. Several months later the problem came back.
So I suspect its caused either by:
1. faulty knock sensors damage the ECU over time
2. The ECU's fail over time regardless of the sensors.
I just live with it now :(
-
Just sharing my experience with an add-on fuel controller.
I would be one of the few to run a fuel controller on my ST. I have a Bazzaz ZFI. The reason is that when I first got the bike 4 years / 80,000kays ago I was looking for a solution to the rough fuelling at very slight throttle openings, and the ZFI was the solution posed by my mechanic at the time. The installation of the ZFI involves disabling the O2 sensors to stop the ECU fighting the corrections from the ZFI. My mechanic also put the bike on his Dyno and built a custom map for it. The custom map produced from the dyno for my bike is attached. You'll see that it runs the bike leaner at the high end, but enriches the mixture in the range that us older gentlemen normally operate in.
The result was (a) silky smooth running in the troublesome throttle region, (b) supposedly more mid-range and top-end power (although Im not certain I need or use it), and (c) considerably higher fuel consumption - at least an extra 15% on highway running.
It took me a long time to get there, but the eventual solution was simply to remove the +ve addjustments in the light throttle / highway rpm range. Maybe I wasted my money on the whole ZFI adventure, and in hindsight I'm not sure I'd go there again. But the bike still runs nice and smooth at light throttle, and I now get a 'normal-ish' 20km/l riding solo on the highway vs the 16 that I was previously getting. This will get tested next time I do a long run with another ST - hopefully I will no longer be humiliated by Biggles at the bowser :||||
-
Regarding a mechanic, Brisbane Motorcycles at Windsor know these bikes inside out because they service (or is that serviced?) the police fleet. Ive found them a little more expensive than Joe-Blow but very thorough and professional.
-
There are a number of guys in the States that spent a lot of money trying to improve the performance of the STs. In the end the only thing they achieved was a thinner wallet.
The only thing to fix the throttle grab at low revs seems to have been something like this..
https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube-honda/ (https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube-honda/)
-
Regarding a mechanic, Brisbane Motorcycles at Windsor know these bikes inside out because they service (or is that serviced?) the police fleet. Ive found them a little more expensive than Joe-Blow but very thorough and professional.
Mine used to go to Windsor too. Very well looked after there.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
Just out of interest, what is considered average fuel consumption for a 1300? Mine does between 15 and 20 kilometres to the litre, according to its computer, and dependent on speed and throttle opening of course.
-
I seem to average around 18 to 20 per Litre.
-
Cool. Mine is about right then. 15 is when I have given the throttle a good twist to round up a road train or something similar.
-
Mine's usually in the low 6's per 100k. :think1
On a longish ride I might get into the high 5's...
I do have a speedo healer fitted though so that possibly skews the indicated fuel economy a touch...
-
Mine used to get 5.5 l/100km on a long ride, and around 6 to 6.2 l/100 km around town.
Standard exhaust
K&N filter
MC Cruise Control
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
The speedo healer will correct speed reading, but the odometer is now out, so economy calculations will be out.
-
My best case is around 20 when solo at a constant 100kph
Around 16 riding fun roads with pillion
Around 14 when being a hoon around town.
-
The speedo healer will correct speed reading, but the odometer is now out, so economy calculations will be out.
Actually, it would be interesting to know how accurate they were in the first place. :think1
I guess with the ST speedo being out roughly 5% when stock, I figure the odometer was probably out too.
One of these days I'll have to check to see how accurate the odometer actually is... :/
-
Am I the only one that has the ST's fuel economy gauge set to show litres per 100 k's? :think1
-
I checked to odometer against the GPS, it is spot on, but the speedo reads 5 KPH high from factory, (cars as well) Unless you have the white bike, then the speedo is accurate (for plod to book folk). Speedo indicates high so the maker cant be blamed if you are going to fast.
-
I regularly get 20km/l and get worried when it slips below 19. I just did a lap around OZ a couple of months ago and averaged around 21km/l over 16,000km. I checked the calculations at various spots against google maps for distance and always calculate the range on the refill litres.
-
I checked to odometer against the GPS, it is spot on, but the speedo reads 5 KPH high from factory, (cars as well) Unless you have the white bike, then the speedo is accurate (for plod to book folk). Speedo indicates high so the maker cant be blamed if you are going to fast.
Unlike the 1300, the 1100's speedo is driven off the front wheel isn't it, Brock?
Just as a point of interest:
Speedo accuracy could be +/- 10% for all vehicles built before July 2006.
An odometer accuracy of +/- 4% was also a requirement.
These days the speedo is not allowed to under read but can over read by up to 10% plus 4 kph so at a speed of 100kph you could theoretically be driving/riding at up to 14km/h below the speed limit if you're relying on the vehicle’s speedo. :||||
Interestingly the odometer accuracy is no longer defined... :/
-
Technically the 1300 is off the rear wheel, the sensor is in the gear box. Of course, the speedo accuracy can be altered by different tyres as well.
-
That's interesting about the decoupling of the odometer from the speedo, though it is what I have observed. My speedo reads just under 10% more than my GPS speed (or roadside displays), but the Odo seems pretty accurate.
-
That's interesting about the decoupling of the odometer from the speedo, though it is what I have observed. My speedo reads just under 10% more than my GPS speed (or roadside displays), but the Odo seems pretty accurate.
I don't know about any decoupling happening. For both ST11 and ST13 the signal (cable in 11, pulse in 13) drives both the speedo and ODO within the instrument, so a change in accuracy of the signal for one will be reflected in the other.
-
I gues I was thinking of it as a cable based system. For electronics it's no problem to have different conversion ratios from the same source.
-
... the sensor is in the gear box ...
And for me prone to failure, which for an item with no moving parts is pretty disappointing at around 50,000km. A reasonably straight forward replacement, but fiddly with lotsa parts to remove and re-fit to get access to it. Probably less fiddly if you have tiny hands.
It was the $130 (as I recall) bit that hurt the most.
Speedo and odo accurancy - pretty much like others have stated. Accuracy doesn't worry me, as the GPS speed display is accurate albeit a bit small. I also have a free App on my iPhone which is accurate and LARGE, with some additional handy features such as average speed, maximum speed, distance, elevation (instant, max & min). Most of these are stored in a log, but I don't really use that except after a bicycle ride,
Fuel consumption - generally around 6 litres / 100km, best around 5 (riding like a pussy), worst around 6.5 (using plenty of throttle in the twisty hills), apart from around 7 (when towing the Elite camper trailer).
-
Am I the only one that has the ST's fuel economy gauge set to show litres per 100 k's? :think1
Mine was in litres/100 km.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
Cheers Gary!
I like it showing l/100k, probably cos' that's how my car is set up...
Bit of a pain if you disconnect the battery though as it goes back to the default setting which is k's per litre.
I usually have to drag the manual back out to find out how to reset it again... :||||
-
Cheers Gary!
I like it showing l/100k, probably cos' that's how my car is set up...
Bit of a pain if you disconnect the battery though as it goes back to the default setting which is k's per litre.
I usually have to drag the manual back out to find out how to reset it again... :||||
I flattened the battery a few times, so I got to remember how to change it. Can't remember now though.
Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk
-
It doesn't matter how many times I've had to reset it, I still have to look up the instructions!
Damn alzheimer's!!! :|||| :fp