Honda ST1100 Section > "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1100...
Replacing Rear Brake Pads
alans1100:
Broken picture links updated
With having to replace the brake pads I thought a little "how to do" wouldn't hurt. This is only for a basic pad change which can be done usually within 30 mins or so.
With the later 1996 and newer 1100A models with the CBS (combined brakes) it is advised in the manual that all pads front and rear should be done at the same time which I think is because there is no independent front/rear braking as on other models.
As a comparison the front and rear OEM pads are identical except that the rear pads are thicker, however, the front pads will fit the rear but you won't get both rears in the front.
First up is to remove the cap screw (what I called it) with a suitably sized screw driver
Then remove the hanger pin which can be done with tools from the bike's tool kit.
Slide the old pads out next
Before installing the new pads the calliper pistons need to be pushed back in and with three of them it can be a bit tricky. Also make sure the calliper slides freely.
I've shown this parts diagram as there is a slide pin (item 13) which might cause the calliper to stick if the grease dries up and I noticed the calliper movement isn't as free as it should so next time the wheel comes out I'll grease up the pin. The manual ignores this pin when just doing a pad change. It may also be the cause of binding brakes in some cases.
Normally I install the inner pad first making sure it locates properly; the hole needs to line up or it's wrong.
Because of the partly sticking calliper I had trouble getting the outer pad in but upon inspection I found the innermost piston hadn't been pushed back in enough. I removed the inner one (to give more room) and managed to get all three pistons pushed in and installed the outer pad first then the inner. OEM pads come with backing plates etc. and they usually fit but this time I left them put as they wouldn't go in.
Lightly grease the hanger pin before installing as the pads slide along it and then replace the cap screw (I just saw the spelling error in the pic).
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I was going to replace the hanger pins but I need another item which is near the end of the pin. It's called a ring stopper but looks like a tiny O ring to me.
For next time though and looking at the rear disk I'll need to do that and do the piston seals as well. Can't complain for a bike that's done 197,000km plus
Greencan:
A little vasoline or rubber grease is all you'll need on that 'O' ring Allan. Why not just transfer it? Also what neccessitated the pin replacement? The one in the pic looks quite servicable, yes?
One, thing to bear in mind when replacing the pads blind, be sure that the pad pressings (back plate), correctly locates in its leading end retainer, it is too easily dis-lodged after the pads are removed and unfortunately new pads can still be returned, pin reinstalled, but the pads (after coming upto a high temp), will not return after the brake is released...big damage insues thereafter :'(
Have a great Christmas🎅
Cheers the can:-)
PS Unrelated...why has Brocks boat race turned into an emoji?
Shiney:
Nicely done mate, thanks for putting this "How to" together and posting it up for everyone :-++ :-++ :-++
I'm sure it will be of help to quite a few people :thumbsup
Cheers
Shiney
alans1100:
--- Quote from: Greencan on December 21, 2016, 04:21:36 PM ---A little vasoline or rubber grease is all you'll need on that 'O' ring Allan. Why not just transfer it? Also what neccessitated the pin replacement? The one in the pic looks quite servicable, yes?
One, thing to bear in mind when replacing the pads blind, be sure that the pad pressings (back plate), correctly locates in its leading end retainer, it is too easily dis-lodged after the pads are removed and unfortunately new pads can still be returned, pin reinstalled, but the pads (after coming upto a high temp), will not return after the brake is released...big damage insues thereafter :'(
Have a great Christmas🎅
Cheers the can:-)
PS Unrelated...why has Brocks boat race turned into an emoji?
--- End quote ---
Now where did Heather hide the Vaseline? :eek
When I did the rear tyre back in October I had to remove the pads (usually I don't need to) to get the calliper/mount back in place and the pin looked slightly worn at one end though when I removed it this time it looked ok.
I have noticed that on previous pad changes that I've done that unless the pad is located correctly the retaining holes won't line up.
alans1100:
--- Quote from: Shiney on December 21, 2016, 04:31:09 PM ---Nicely done mate, thanks for putting this "How to" together and posting it up for everyone :-++ :-++ :-++
I'm sure it will be of help to quite a few people :thumbsup
Cheers
Shiney
--- End quote ---
I have the front pads to do as well but not much different to the rear as regards the process.
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