My 2017 Himalayan Adventure Ride Report

[Pezzz]

This may come through in a few parts as trying to piece it all together for both here and for Nevermind Adventure Admin Guys ....

So I got a call from Matt at Nevermind Adventure back in March asking if I was interested in leading the June 18 Day Adventure. My response ??? Hell yes !!!  Hang on ......  Who am I with ??? 
Matt's response was ..... Just you ... You've done the ride before and nothing will change ... You'll be fine ....
Me .... OK ....   

The first change was about a month later I get a message from Matt saying that Kashmir is out as people there are throwing stones at each other so we can't get insurance to go there ..... Oh well ... I get to see somewhere new 

Anyway, please enjoy my RR and bear with me as I work out how to put up photos without photobucket (I'll look through the forum later to see if there is a fix yet)..

June Himalayan Rumble 2017

I arrived in Delhi a few days early as I wanted to get some shopping done and just relax before what I knew would be an epic near 3 weeks on the road.
The guys started filtering in the day before and we all met up on the roof of the Tara Palace for a nice cold Kingfisher.

Day 1
We had a very early start with Saheed in the bus and everyone was properly introduced to each other as well as Naim, Viresh, and Bablu.
What can I say about the joy of India's traffic? Well within shouting distance of the hotel we were held up for about 2 hours due to traffic coming into Macleod Ganj. More time to get to know each other :-)
Eventually we checked in, had some dinner, and had a briefing about what was going to happen the next day and throughout the trip.

Day 2
We had a nice early start and after the Pooja ceremony where both the bikes and us were blessed for a safe journey it was time to hit the road.
A nice easy day to start with ... a little rain but mainly fine weather and decent roads.
We got into the Mini Swiss in Khajjiar with enough time to have a look around and a few drinks.

Next day we woke to the rain.....
 

[Pezzz]

Day 3
We donned our wet weather gear and started out and the rain didn't let up all day.
What started as muggy and warm quickly became cold as we headed towards our first real challenge.... Sarch Pass.... known on the internet as one of the world's most dangerous passes.
Sarch Pass is a challenge of riding skill and grit no matter when you tackle it. To do so in the rain and sleet adds a certain layer of uncomfortableness (is that even a word???) and a true feeling of accomplishment upon completion.
We watched as the road disappeared firstly to a dirt and mud track, then into a rocky river track and eventually into cloud where you could only see a few metres ahead of you. When the cloud broke and you could see you were rewarded with some spectacular views as you ride through chasms of glacial ice and look out over a mountainside part covered in snow.

We reached the top of the pass and stopped for a rest and the obligatory photos of the temple and epic scenery.
At this point I stayed with one of the guys who was totally knackered and sent the rest on ahead while we waited for the bus.
Naim then joined me on the bikes and after a few minutes stopped and asked me to swap bikes as he had never ridden the Himalaya before and was having trouble seeing the track in front.
Knowing what was ahead and thinking of the increased suspension and wheel size I was only too happy to oblige.

A few hours of hard riding and great photo stops later we arrived with no incident in the dark at Killar. We later learned that four bikes and riders had decided to go for a swim in one of the large water sections..... Welcome to the Himalayas.... You have been baptised...

We had dinner and a briefing and then it was off to bed for an early start the next day.

Day 4
For some reason when I am away doing these trips I tend to wake very early and if you are going to wake early I would suggest doing so in Killar.
With the mountains in the background and the lack of noise in the area it is absolutely wonderful to just sit and watch the mountains lighten.
Killar to Udaipur was a new route for me and although a hard day with some big water and rough roads, I found going somewhere new exciting and enjoyable. The distance was only 80km but it still took us over 4 hours to cover. A couple of flat tyres didn't help but you don't do these roads without getting flat tyres....

Day 5
Our next day took us to our first camping ground. Tsokar. What a beautiful place. The people there were happy to meet us and took us out to the lake in the morning and told us about the area and that where we were standing the whole bowl of the valley is covered in snow 7 months of the year up to 4m deep !!!!
Getting to Tsokar was a mixture of rough roads straight out of Udaipur until we hit the main Leh highway. The rain was still with us and I got to experience something else new ... Riding in snow. Not just snow on the ground, but snow blowing into your helmet and ice cascading down your visor. This was certainly an experience although it got a bit annoying when the coil on the Bullet decided to give up just before the peak of Baralachla Pass. Luckily it was sealed road as I spent the next 45 minutes pushing the bike until the bus showed up. I have a great photo of my bike with the snow falling on it as I finally gave up to wait for the bus.
Waquar and I got into camp in the dark again only about a half hour behind the rest of the guys which would give an indication of the quality of the road and the fun we had on it.... Helpful hint ... watch out for the drains and humps.....

Day 6
After going to the valley we started our trip to Leh.
Getting to Leh was fairly easy going with nice roads most of the way and we were able to get some good speeds up. We arrived in Leh around 2pm and after waiting on directions to the hotel made our way into this great little city.

Naim and Graeme were suffering badly with altitude sickness so we called a doctor and he helped Graeme out. Unfortunately for Naim it was a plane ride home.
Graeme and David decided to take a couple of rest days in Leh and the rest of us carried on.

[Pezzz]

Day 7
We left Leh on locally hired bikes to head up Kardunglah…. The World’s Highest Motorable Pass at just under 5500m above sea level. Unfortunately my bike never made it out of Leh. We swapped my bike out for another one and we were on our way.
Unlike previous trips, we were not turning around at Kardunglah but rather carrying on through to Hunder in the Nubra Valley. We stopped for photos and congratulations at the top and then went through.
Hunder is in a high desert bowl. Our nice sealed road took us through shifting sands where even the 2 humped camels of China roam. On arrival at our lodging for the night we found a nicely stacked fire pit so of course us being us we decided to light it. It was great to sit by the fire and have a chat even when we found out from the manager that it was not laid for common use and we would need to pay for the firewood.  Oh well……. Still a great night and a good breakfast the next morning saw us on our way back to Leh.


Day 8
We arrived back in Leh just after lunch the next day after an incident free ride and got to catch up with Graeme, David and Naim.
Naim and I had a chat and worked out the details for the rest of the trip and then he was off to the airport to head home.
Graeme was feeling much better but we decided to keep him in the bus for the next day until we got a little lower.
We had a nice lunch and dinner out in Leh which also happened to be my birthday. 

Day 9
The next morning it was back on the road as we headed to Sarchu and back into the tents.
We had excellent roads (watch the dips and bumps) for the first 175km then it started to get a little worse. At least it was dry !!!!
Some excellent scenery through here and quite a few photo stops were made.
We arrived at our camp in Sarchu about 8 hours after leaving Leh tired but happy. A good day in the saddle.

Day 10
From Sarchu we headed to Sissu. Back through Baralarchla Pass but this time in fine sunshine and what a difference that makes!!!! The views are spectacular and you come across the most beautiful blue highland lake.
Although only 130km it still took us a good 4 hours riding. Note: Tandi is always fun to fill up at :-P
The camps at Sissu are one of my favourite places to camp. With the beautiful waterfall in the background and the friendly staff you cannot go wrong.
The guys there even managed to procure some chickens for us to make up a lovely chicken curry dinner for us. By this time we were craving some meat. Don’t worry there were still vegetarian dishes served for those who wanted.

Day 11
The next morning we headed out from Sissu to go to Chandratal……
As we passed through the last check post we were warned that the road was out but we may make it through.
Unfortunately this was not meant to be……….

[Yorkie]

It would appear India is the preferred place for you to celebrate your birthday

[Pezzz]

So it seems ... I only go there for the cake ....

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Pezzz]

Day 11 (Continued)
We turned off from the main highway on to the “road” to Chandratal. Some nice rocky switchbacks greeted us straight away and then it was onto the “cliff edge” “road” we come here for. Went through the first major water crossing all ok and was thinking…. Should be good from here…. Wrong!!!
Next water crossing was well and truly washed out with a hole in the middle of it around 4 – 5 foot deep… Was advised by police car at the crossing that some machinery was on its way and we could wait if we liked to see if we could get through.
After a few hours, the digger had arrived and done some work giving us hope again that we could continue. Waquar took one of the Himalayas through with the help of a few people and quickly disappeared around the next bend. After seeing the struggle he had we decided to wait and see what his verdict was before any of us attempted it.
Waquar arrived back at the crossing a short while later with more bad news.
The next crossing about 8km away was also washed out and there were over 100 bikes stranded between the two already.
I sent the group back to the first crossing with instructions to wait there while we planned what we would do. We spoke to the policeman and managed to chat with the Border Roads Organisation engineer on site and were advised that the 2 crossings would not be open for the next 2 to 3 days.
The crew and I had a discussion on our options which were head back to Sissu and try again the next day or carry on to Manali via the highway and make up a new route when we got there.
After talking to the engineer we decided to head to Manali.

Of course at this time Saheed and his mighty little bus are stopped on the cliff edge in facing the direction of Chandratal and he needed to turn around. How he does this is baffling but somehow he always manages a way.
I caught up with the guys just after the first crossing again and we headed up to the road to have a chat about our next course of action.
Luckily there was a nice little Dahba up on the hill so we all headed there for a chai while the boys got the bike back over and Saheed caught up.

We decided to head to Manali and arrived there just on dusk. Stopped for chai while we waited for the bus and the local accommodation agent to catch up with us.
Had a very nice meal at a restaurant close by and then headed up to the guest house we managed to secure for the night. It was a beautiful place (the name escapes me) and we were all welcoming of the comfortable bed and surrounds in the morning.

Day 12
We stayed in Manali but moved hotels to the Mayflower (our normal finishing point).
While the guys went off exploring Old Manali and the Main Mall Street, we finalised plans for the reroute of the trip.
Had a nice dinner in the Mayflower (food and rooms there are excellent) and then briefed the guys on the new plan.

Day 13
We left Manali around 9 and started heading to Jhibhi. Manali to Jhibhi is only a short 3 or 4 hours away but traffic is quite heavy and we were back into the rain again. So a nice, easy, wet ride put us into Jhibhi early afternoon.
Jhibhi is one of my favourite places. The hotel we stay at is all about organic food and a quiet getaway. The owner there even grows his own tobacco and is happy to share 
Once settled Scott and I headed out to find the pool hall that was there last year. Of course it had moved down a dodgy looking flight of stairs underneath a building….. Not to be deterred we had a chat with the guys there and after having a warm up between us got soundly beaten by the locals (in pool that is) for about 6 games over the next hour or so. By this time it was time for them to go home so we gave them some money and headed back to the hotel.

Overall a great afternoon but it was only to get better…….

Through a mutual friend, Scott was friends with Bobbee Singh from Old Delhi Motorcycles and had noticed he was in the garden at the hotel having a drink….. Scott went up and spoke to him and later introduced me. After Scott left I ended up having a good couple of hours chatting with him and he suggested a slight change to our ride route. Saheed came over and we talked it through and saw it would make no impact so we added Chitkul to our ride after Kalpa. When we said goodnight, Bobbee commented on how energetic and passionate Saheed is and what a great guy….. I have to agree….
It was an absolute pleasure to meet Bobbee and I thank Scott Campbell for introducing us.

Day 14
Our target for this day was Sangla. Jhibhi to Sangla is not far on the map however never let distances fool you. Just under 200km took us just over 6 hours moving time…. With the rain we had and were still having, the road through Jalori Pass was just a slimy, slippery, mud trail.
So now we have ridden on tar, sand, rock, salt lake, river beds with and without water, snow and ice covered roads and now mud…… It doesn’t get much more diverse than that!!!
Jalori Pass….. You need to go up there and see it to really appreciate the beautiful view. We arrived while the cloud was still low in the valley so managed to get some truly awesome photos.
Stopped for a chai and by the time we left the cloud had risen nearly up to where we were.
Another 20km or so of mud (this time downhill) and we came back to decent tar roads again.
A bit more mud as we headed into Sangla as we cannot end a day with nice tar…..  hahahahahahaha.
Kinner Camps at Sangla is absolutely wonderful. Once again, a nice, peaceful atmosphere, great accommodation including running hot water now!!! No more carrying buckets to the kitchen to heat up water.  I always enjoy the time here and love waking to the view of the mountain straight across the river. The driveway is fun in the wet though 

[Pezzz]

Day 15
A short ride was planned for this day as unfortunately there are not a lot of options that would get us in before dark and no one wants to ride a Bullet in the dark with a factory headlight….
We left mid-morning and headed to Kalpa. An easy 100km on decent to OK roads taking around 3.5 hours. We arrived in Kalpa mid-afternoon and walked around the town until dinner and bed.

Day 16
We took on board Bobbee’s suggestion and headed to Chitkul. Chitkul is a little town as close to the China / Tibetan border that you can get. We accidently went straight through the town and ended up at the army outpost. We stopped and had a chat with a couple of soldiers there and were told we could not go any further and could only take photos aimed at the India side of the border. The valley is beautiful and we all got photos with the soldiers and even got them to take group photos of us. A simple highlight of the trip but one that will stay with many of the guys I am sure.
From there we stopped in the town for chai and then carried on to Rampur.
We arrived in Rampur around 2pm and bid a temporary farewell to Scott who had decided to make a beeline back to Delhi where his girlfriend was waiting for him. Scott arrived safely around 1:30am and had a great time with his driver and even managed to stop for a chai along the way.
The hotel was part of the palace gardens area and we were allowed to go into the palace gardens for photos. What a beautiful place.
Happy Birthday Saheed!!!!!

Day 17
This was out last riding day and took us on excellent roads from Rampur to Shimla.
On arriving in Shimla after getting ourselves settled we had one more ride to do which was to take our trusty steeds to a drop off point where the mechanics Waquar and Manali would wait for the truck to get them back to Manali for the next group.
We bid farewell to the mechanics there and I would personally like to say it was a pleasure meeting them and I look forward to our next trip together.

Shimla is the capital of the Himalayas and has a fantastic main mall street. As well as having many varied shops to find gifts, the mall is non-smoking and closed to all traffic (except the rubbish truck).
They guys had a good time finding presents for people back home and soaking up the atmosphere in the cafes and other places there.
We got back for an 8:30 dinner and awards presentation.
As well as the completion awards, 2 other awards were given.
The Pooja award went to Jim for his connection to nature around us and in particular a certain bunch of hairy little critters called a Marmots that loosely circled around him in Sissu while he was having some time to himself.
We had 2 Chimpoo awards 1 going to David (his second) and one going to Alan.
Had few drinks that night with everyone then it was repack everything for the bus trip back to Delhi

Day 18
Our final day with the rest of the crew.
Starting in Shimla we were already a few hours ahead of time for our trip back to Delhi so we had a later start. The bus ride is the bus ride and many people chose this opportunity to nap (I took photos to use as blackmail material later). A couple of us chose to while away the time with a couple of bottle of Old Monk rum tipped into coke bottles and mixed as we went……
Eventually after a few extra police stops we made it all safe and sound back to the Tara Palace.
It was then that we met the next group of victims…. I mean travellers… and I handed the reins over to Rob Sanders.
The 2 groups mingled and we had a special guest appearance by Scott and Danielle so I was able to present him with his certificate.
We wound the night up at a semi decent time as the next group were due on the bus at 5:30 the next morning.
I said my goodbyes to Saheed, Viresh, and Bablu and will see them again in November.


Post Ride Days
I spent a few extra days in Delhi as I wanted to do some shopping for family as well as parts for my Royal Enfield. I met up with one of the mechanics from last year named Gotham at Lali’s shop. For those that are reading this that know Gotham he is the most wonderful kid and was very happy and proud to show me where he works. And no…. he still doesn’t drink……. Yet…..
I spent a couple of hours with him there and with the manager of the shop, got the bits I wanted and as I was about to leave, Lali turned up so I had a chat with him for a while and let him know what great people he has working for him.
While in the area I picked up some saddle bags for the bike at home as well as some seat covers for the RE.
A few of the guys arrived back from Agra while I was still waiting for my time in Delhi to end so we sat up on the roof again and had a good chat and recap on the trip.
The taxi arrived and then it was time to head off back to the airport and the trip home.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank a few people.

Firstly I would like to thank Matt and the admin staff of Nevermind Adventure. Without you guys, none of this would happen for anyone and it has been a great experience working with you all.

Secondly, the Indian crew. Naim, Viresh, Saheed, and Bablu.

Naim, for the short time you were with us, your advice and wonderful personality were a great comfort to me and you set the guys minds at ease whenever there was a problem. Thank you.

Viresh, Our little concierge… It is hard to imagine things going half as smoothly as they did without you there mate. You are a great pillion rider and a treasure trove of knowledge. Your assistance after Naim left was above and beyond although you probably see it as just doing your job. Thank you buddy.

Saheed, The happiest Tempo / Traveller driver in India. Or the crazy Indian bus driver…. Whichever you prefer. Your advice and help was what really got me through all the changes. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. Bobbee Singh was so right about your passion and general great outlook on life (maybe not so positive on the corrupt cops though). You are a blessing to all you meet my friend. Thank you once again.

Bablu, This was the first time I got to know you and I would like to thank you personally for stepping up when Naim left and riding the bike pretty much every day even though it was not really what you were there for or comfortable doing. Your role changed from backup rider to pretty much full time and I just want to thank you for picking up the slack and just running with it. Thank you also for your help behind the scenes.

Thirdly, the mechanics.
Waquar and Manali, Our trusty mechanics. These guys were supplied by the bike hire place as mechanics to look after the bikes and fill in if there was an emergency and someone couldn’t ride and we had run out of backup riders. One or another of them rode pretty much each day after Leh and I would like to thank them also for stepping up and becoming part of the team. Waquar, next time I say it’s a plug let’s just change it huh?????  LMAO!!!!
Thanks again guys…

Finally I would like to thank the awesome group of guys who got out of their comfort zone and joined me on this fantastic adventure.
Andrew, Chris, David, Scott, Alan, Andy, Graeme, Big Brian, Little Brian, and Jim.
You guys are what these trips are about. A group of strangers (although some knew others) with one thing in common. Motorcycling and the desire to ride in places others wouldn’t even think of.

Thank you all once again.
It has been a pleasure.

Mark Perrin.

[Jdbiker]

Great read , thanks for sharing your experience 🤓

[Shiney]

Awesome adventure mate, thanks for sharing it with us all