Classic Industries Towbar Fitting/Wiring Instructions - ST1300

[STroppy]

I need to fit a Classic Industries towbar to my ST1300 and, while I can work it out, I would like a copy of Classic Industries Instructions - anyone able to copy and post here please?

[Lionel]

I don't have the instructions but you're welcome to go to my place to check out my installation.
Telephone David in the afternoon to arrange a time if you want.
I won't be back for a couple of weeks.

[Gavo]

A big thanks to Mitch 

[STroppy]

Thanks Lionel, I won't be fitting before Ballarat/Adelaide, and Rob has posted the Classic instructions, thanks Rob very much appreciated.

I might go and have a look at your installation Lionel once we are all back from our travels.

Cheers

Terry

[Malcolm6112]

The "hardest" part is cutting the slot in the rear guard for the support bracket on each side. Removal of the plastic around the rear isn't too hard, but can be fiddle-ley.


 

[Pezzz]

The "hardest" part is cutting the slot in the rear guard for the support bracket on each side. Removal of the plastic around the rear isn't too hard, but can be fiddle-ley.


 

I did mine on the 1100 without having to remove any plastic and to make the holes for the uprights I used a chisel .....

[Williamson]

An old thread, but related ....

Can anyone help out with a set of fitting instructions for a Classic ST1300 tow hitch, please?  I've emailed Classic, but thought someone 'ere may be able to assist.

I thought this would be a simple jobby, just a duplication of the old UniGo hitch (oh why did I ever sell it?), but alas a number of differences, and from I can work out, the Classic hitch may need to modifications to the ST.  So before I venture down that path, some instructions would assist. 

No instructions?  Perhaps even some pics of the mounting points sans the side panniers may assist,  Pics taken from all or any angle if you can, please.

Of course, if anyone wants a lunch, a beer (or whatever) and makes a visit to provide some even more practical assistance, would have my un-ending appreciation.

[STroppy]

I’m in Adelaide until Wednesday, if you don’t have pics by then, I’ll send you some! I don’t think it was a very big job, just a slit in the black plastic, I think, or was that the 1100  .. . .

[Williamson]

I’m in Adelaide until Wednesday, if you don’t have pics by then, I’ll send you some! I don’t think it was a very big job ...

Thanks Terry, I have heard from Brock, he steered me to this thread. No rush, I was gunna fit it this weekend, but any weekend will do, and after a few weeks when I'll be on 12 months holiday, and week day will do.

... just a slit in the black plastic, I think ...

A slit both sides of the black plastic of the inner guard would seem to tally with my thoughts, but I would like to be sure.  I suspect this would also require removal of quite a bit of rear plastics to get to the bolts to mount the top of the "T's".

[STroppy]

I think I just those bolts out and slid the brackets into place, no need to remove any of the Tupperware.

[PC]

To fit my classic tow bar I had to remove the top box mount to be able to remove the grab rails as the top mounts of the tow bar sat on top of the frame and the grab rail bolts went down through and bolted them in place
Yes you will need to cut a slit in the inner guard to allow the hangers to drop through
I did remove rear Mudgard fo easier access to wiring

[Williamson]

To fit my classic tow bar I had to remove the top box mount to be able to remove the grab rails as the top mounts of the tow bar sat on top of the frame and the grab rail bolts went down through and bolted them in place
Yes you will need to cut a slit in the inner guard to allow the hangers to drop through
I did remove rear Mudgard fo easier access to wiring

 

Mmmm .. I think I've got enough info now to progress with the fitting, I'll get back down to the garage tomorrow and a ferret around, see what can be done.

[Williamson]

If I may be a litttle more self-indulging, can I ask:

• I'd still like some clearer pick (the pics in Gavo's post haven't aged well),
• I'm particulary interested to see into which hole on the main tow frame (terminology used in the Classic instructions) you have mounted the lower end of the hanger strap - I hoping the rear most hole (as per the Classic pic), as this would (I think) be the most sturdy.  I ask this because I couldn't do this with the Classic Hitch on the CB1300a few years back.  Time will tell anyway.

[West Aussie Glen]

From what I have seen the worst part is where to pick up the wiring connections.
I am getting ready to install some extra lights on the rear of my 1300. Plan is to pick up trigger signals from the quartet harness or its socket for left and right hand blinkers as well as a switched power supply to use for tail lights. I will then pick up a brake signal from one of the brake switches. These signals will then go to a Kuryakyn trailer wiring harness like this one:-
  https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kuryakyn-7673-Plug-Play-Trailer-Wiring-Relay-Harness-Honda-Goldwing-01-10-GL18/124129856800?epid=171206255&hash=item1ce6b74d20:g:cn8AAOSwdsFeqtPr
It has a single module which has solid state relays for stop, tail and left and right hand blinkers. It has its own power lead from the battery as well as one a general power supply for the trailer.
I fitted one of these to my sidecar for the sidecar lights, lucky I could get a plug and play to fit the GL1500, none available for the 1300.
More expensive then four relays but very tidy and doesn't add any real load to the existing bike wiring.

[PC]

If I may be a litttle more self-indulging, can I ask:

• I'd still like some clearer pick (the pics in Gavo's post haven't aged well),
• I'm particulary interested to see into which hole on the main tow frame (terminology used in the Classic instructions) you have mounted the lower end of the hanger strap - I hoping the rear most hole (as per the Classic pic), as this would (I think) be the most sturdy.  I ask this because I couldn't do this with the Classic Hitch on the CB1300a few years back.  Time will tell anyway.

You use those holes to adjust the height of your tow ball I have mine in the second hole from the rear to get the height of my tow ball near centre of rear axel
The theory is if to ball is above or below axel centre  the trailer can push or pull the bike down when cornering
In saying that the wheel moves up and down so I think it is just an average  My trailer sits quite level when hitched up which is what I was wanting to achieve more so then axel centre

[Williamson]

You use those holes to adjust the height of your tow ball I have mine in the second hole from the rear to get the height of my tow ball near centre of rear axel
The theory is if to ball is above or below axel centre  the trailer can push or pull the bike down when cornering
In saying that the wheel moves up and down so I think it is just an average  My trailer sits quite level when hitched up which is what I was wanting to achieve more so then axel centre

Yeah, I've just finished with the installation, used the holes second from the rear, height looks okay, but I'll check the height and angle relative to the bike when I'm finished.  And another but ... the sometimes is another but (and sometimes that's a big hairy butt), but I'm a little disappointed about how far it sticks out the rear, it's about 150mm from the rear tyre.

[PC]

[quote author=Williamson link=topic=6531.msg1281086#msg1281086 date=1607213057, but I'm a little disappointed about how far it sticks out the rear, it's about 150mm from the rear tyre.
[/quote]
Yep that about right . If mine was any closer to the wheel the trailer hitch would foul on the rear mudguard

[Williamson]

... but I'm a little disappointed about how far it sticks out the rear, it's about 150mm from the rear tyre.

Yep that about right . If mine was any closer to the wheel the trailer hitch would foul on the rear mudguard

Yeah, that is right, when I get the rear mudguard on it doesn't look ungainly.

As I was getting the mudguard on I noticed that with the lower end of the hanger straps set at the second hole from the rear the hanger straps, they didn't adequately clear the mudguard, had to reset them on the third hole from the rear.

With the mudguard off, there were only a few extra screws too loosen to take off the rear light assembly, then much easier to access the rear wiring.   When reassembling everything don't forget to re-install the light assembly before you re-install the grab rail.  If you don't you have to remove and re-install the grab rail - d'oh!

Anyhow, brake, tail and indicator wires piggy-backed and ready to connect into the wiring loom on the tow hitch, perhaps a job for another weekend or day off.       

 

[PC]

... but I'm a little disappointed about how far it sticks out the rear, it's about 150mm from the rear tyre.

Yep that about right . If mine was any closer to the wheel the trailer hitch would foul on the rear mudguard

Yeah, that is right, when I get the rear mudguard on it doesn't look ungainly.

As I was getting the mudguard on I noticed that with the lower end of the hanger straps set at the second hole from the rear the hanger straps, they didn't adequately clear the mudguard, had to reset them on the third hole from the rear.

With the mudguard off, there were only a few extra screws too loosen to take off the rear light assembly, then much easier to access the rear wiring.   When reassembling everything don't forget to re-install the light assembly before you re-install the grab rail.  If you don't you have to remove and re-install the grab rail - d'oh!

Anyhow, brake, tail and indicator wires piggy-backed and ready to connect into the wiring loom on the tow hitch, perhaps a job for another weekend or day off.     

Good to see it all came together  enjoy towing