@000 ST1100A Indicator switch block

[robmorg]

Have had enough anguish with indicators taking a long time to activate in the cold weather. Pulled apart and cleaned often (to no avail), and this time I snapped the nylon switch slider. Does anyone know where to obtain a switchblock at a reasonable price?

[robmorg]

Forgot to mention that I live in Perth
Rob Morgan

[Brock]

Now that is a woops... Cant help with a switchblock, maybe Yorkie will have one, he seems to have 3 of everything.

For future reference, all you need to do is open up the switch block, hose out the switch with contsct cleaner (amazing the amount of crud that comes out) and them lubricate with Litium grease. All available from Jaycar.

[robmorg]

Thanks for your help, Brock. I decided to buy one from Rick Gill Honda in Osborne Park (Perth). It is $162.90, and arrives next Monday. Much anguish in getting the old one out. The worst part is that the final connectors are sitting in a metal plate, and the socket is not withheld in the plate. This means I will have a lot of cursing to plug in the new piece of loom. I am thinking the only way is to take all 4 connectors off the plate and discard it. Then plug them all together in air, and lash them together with a wire tie.
Would be interested to know if any others have done a lot of muttering and cursing whilst doing this job.

[Brock]

Did you buy the whole switch block assy, or the indicator. A new switchblock should just plug in  (down infront of the aircleaner)

[robmorg]

The whole switch block. I doubt if the individual components inside are separate spares. The nylon slider part is all I needed.

[alans1100]

Thanks for your help, Brock. I decided to buy one from Rick Gill Honda in Osborne Park (Perth). It is $162.90, and arrives next Monday. Much anguish in getting the old one out. The worst part is that the final connectors are sitting in a metal plate, and the socket is not withheld in the plate. This means I will have a lot of cursing to plug in the new piece of loom. I am thinking the only way is to take all 4 connectors off the plate and discard it. Then plug them all together in air, and lash them together with a wire tie.
Would be interested to know if any others have done a lot of muttering and cursing whilst doing this job.

Replaced the LH switch block on mine several years (2008) ago for a similar issue. The hardest part was removing the old wiring once I found where it plugged into and then replacing the new wiring along the same path and plugging that in.  As Brock says in front of the carbs - fake tank cover off and air cleaner housing had to come off to get anywhere near it.

[robmorg]

Yep. And also to get the bulky male end of the connectors out of a hole too small you need to break off a bit of a plastic bracket. Who designs this stuff? Why not make passage holes big enough to pass any new loom/ connectors through to the end point. I think the makers never envisaged that this particular component would ever need replacement.
Give me my old Austin A30 to work on...it was so simple.

[Yorkie]

As Brock said, I have a spare cost would be for you to collect

[pault]

In the past i have had trouble with corrosion in the connectors besde the air cleaner, squirt with cleaner and all OK, just tedious o get at.

[robmorg]

Many thanks for your offer Yorkie, but now too late since I have one on order. For anyone else who has had similar problems as mine, and has found that cleaning switch with circuit board / switch cleaner spray, and to no avail, then the Honda part number is a Winker part no. 35020MAJG40. If you look up this part with a Google search you may find the drawing of all handle bar switch bits. The part in question is no. 6 in the attached link:

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/honda-parts/motorcycles/st1100-2000/f-4-switch-cable-541305/35020majg40-switch-set-winker.aspx

[robmorg]

The bike will be up for sale soon, and I do not wish to spend the money on a rear tyre and a major service. Will put a new posting when ready, but briefly it is a 2000 ST1100ABS with just over 92,000 km; a few scratches after being dropped twice on RHS; occasional clutch squak which is cured by riding in gear and pulling in clutch lever and revving, to wet the plates. Otherwise it is in good condition. I think $3000 should be a reasonable price for one of these that hold their value better than most bikes.

[Ace]

Have had enough anguish with indicators taking a long time to activate in the cold weather. Pulled apart and cleaned often (to no avail), and this time I snapped the nylon switch slider. Does anyone know where to obtain a switchblock at a reasonable price?

This is an old thread but during my search found this describes the same issue I have with my new st1100. The indicators do exactly what is decribed above, and once warm work perfectly! Any others experienced or fixed the same issue?
Chris

[Ace]

Ok...I am answering my own question....today I pulled the switch block apart, expecting it to be a bit more complex than the older style on my  cxes as it has the cancelling button. So I was pleasantly suprised when I found it very simple...no tiny metal ball or spring to pop out...The contact plate and cancelling system had a build up of crud so I gave it all a good clean with Q-tips and contact cleaner...voila...the indicators became instant-on rather than delayed as mentioned.
Why the problem when cold? I believe the greasy crud warms up during the ride and also as you use the indicators they self-clean a bit and work better...but...hopefully by doing the clean the issue has been solved!
Chris

[Shiney]

Awesome work Ace
Thanks for sharing the outcome with everyone
I'm sure that like you, others will have the same issue in the future and this info will be of assistance

Cheers
Shiney

[Ace]

Thanks mate...I confirmed the fix with a nice ride today and the indicators worked perfectly!
Chris