Spotlight Install on a ST1300

[Shiney]

In this how to I will be covering the install of Spotlights on Draco's 2004 ST1300.

First off remove the mirror covers/indicators, the large fairing on both sides of the bike that cover the motor and the small one covering the battery.





Next raise the tank.
Move the front seat mount into the rearmost position and loosen the bar at the rear of the tank.


   


Undo the bolts at the front of the tank then slide the tank back and raise it up.
(I like to use a strap as this gives unrestricted space under the tank)


   


Now that we have easy access to everywhere we need for the install the next step is to attach the over mirror mounts.

Remove the rubber from next to the mirror.





Mark out where you want the mount to run through.
Then use a drill to put a circular hole on each end and cut a slit between them.


      


Next reattach the rubber then undo the bolts holding the mirror and feed the mount through the slit in the rubber.


      


Place the mirror back into place under the mount and using the longer bolts that come with the mounts bolt them into place.


      


Now that the spotlight mounts are attached we commence the wiring

Run a wire from near the battery up under the tank to the front of the bike.


      


Connect an inline fuse holder to the end near the battery then connect it to the positive terminal of the battery (Leave the actual fuse out for now)


   


Now we connect up an earth wire near the front of the bike.
I like to earth to the bolt on the side of the frame just back from the forks.
(Look for the black wire in the picture below)





Next we need to prepare some wires to attach to the relay.

Connect two wires to a splitter (These wires will be used to run power from the relay to both spotlights)





Finally we get a small length of wire 10 to 15 cm long (it can be trimmed to a smaller length depending on how far you attach the relay from the headlight plug (Next step))
Attach a female blade connector to one end then strip a little of the shielding on the other end.





Now that the wires are prepared, next is connecting them to the relay.
Attach a relay by zip tie up near the back of the headlight.

* Plug in the positive wire we ran up from the battery (Red Wire) to #30
* Plug in the negative wire we ran to the frame near the forks (Black wire) to #85
* Plug in the splitter connected to the two wires (Twin red wires) to #87
* Plug in the short cable we just prepared (White Wire) to #86


   

*** If you have a switch (which we didn't ) it should be installed before the relay. Plug the positive wire we ran up from the battery (Red Wire) to one side of the switch then connect another wire from the other side of the switch to #30 on the relay.
(This will enable the spotlights to be switched on or off when high beam is active. This is  is actually a legal requirement)


Now run the white wire to the high beam side of the headlight plug (this will activate the relay/spotlights when high beam is activated)





Next run the two red wires from the splitter to the spotlights.
Run one wire up to the back of the nearest mirror and run the other wire across to behind the other mirror (We ran this wire back to our earthing point then across in front of the air box).


         


Connect the spotlights to the mounts and run the wires from them through to behind the mirror (passing through the slit in the rubber next to where the mount goes through)





Plug the power cable in to the positive wire.





Connect the negative wire to the top bolt that holds the mirror.


         


Now plug a fuse into the inline fuse holder and test to make sure they work


   


Finally put all the fairings back on and perform a final test before going out and lining up the spotlight beams

         


Anyway that is how we did it

Cheers
Shiney

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

  AS usual Shiney, An excellent "How To" AGAIN. I'm learning lots watching the MASTER Very well done AND a BIG thank you 

After having the spot lights installed, it was last night i checked and adjusted them
this is low beam with my new headlight globes

 Hi beam and spotlights

in a side street.

these ones were taken on an open highway
low beam


high beam and spots


Cheers Draco 

[Lionel]

Great pics and explanation, Shiney. 
I understand that it is a requirement to be able to isolate the spots from high beam using a switch.
You covered this in that part of your explanation in red text although you didn't warn the viewers that an isolating switch is actually a legal requirement.

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

Will be getting one later lionel👍

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

[Gadget]

Great pics and explanation, Shiney. 
I understand that it is a requirement to be able to isolate the spots from high beam using a switch.
You covered this in that part of your explanation in red text although you didn't warn the viewers that an isolating switch is actually a legal requirement.

Very good write up.

 Further to Lionel's post, the switch should be between the fuse and relay on the supply side. This is so that the relay can be islets from the battery in case the relay jams on/self welds. Also for when you are working on the lights.

The fuse should be as close to the battery as practical in case the supply wire is crushed and shorts to the chassis. This will hopefully prevent a cooked ST.

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

Thanks Gadget 👍

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[Biggles]

Very well documented.  As seen, it's good to incorporate in the main description the extra observations made by others.

Another helpful idea I found works is to remove the plug from the headlight and with a fine screwdriver, pop out the wire and its spade terminal for the high beam from the plug.  Then it's much easier to solder a signal lead to that part of the socket, rather than stripping wire or damaging the plastic with the soldering iron.

[Shiney]

Great pics and explanation, Shiney. 
I understand that it is a requirement to be able to isolate the spots from high beam using a switch.
You covered this in that part of your explanation in red text although you didn't warn the viewers that an isolating switch is actually a legal requirement.

Very good write up.

 Further to Lionel's post, the switch should be between the fuse and relay on the supply side. This is so that the relay can be islets from the battery in case the relay jams on/self welds. Also for when you are working on the lights.

The fuse should be as close to the battery as practical in case the supply wire is crushed and shirts to the chassis. This will hopefully prevent a cooked ST.

Thanks for the advice guys

I have modified the post.
How does this sound?

*** If you have a switch (which we didn't ) it should be installed before the relay. Plug the positive wire we ran up from the battery (Red Wire) to one side of the switch then connect another wire from the other side of the switch to #30 on the relay.
(This will enable the spotlights to be switched on or off when high beam is active. This is  is actually a legal requirement)

Cheers
Shiney

[Biggles]

Yep, that will cover it, Shiney.

There's no need to cut into your panels to install the switch.  I made a small flat bracket out of sheet metal and attached it to the handlebars using the clutch attach bolt.  Jaycar have a nice rocker switch with a red LED light in it to tell you it's on.

[Brock]

I'm not a hundred percent sure, but it looks like the wrong crimping tool may have been used. Also, those look like Jaycar crimps. I prefer not to use them, as they usualy dont grip the wire correctly. Narva crimps are far better.

Somewhere there is a how to crimp and what tool to use article..

[Draco (Heartbreak Kid)]

Thanks Mr Brock

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[Knave]

Thanks for the very timely post Shiney. Great photos and instructions. I am just about to mount a couple of HID's on my 2009 ST1300 (painted the above mirror brackets yesterday). It makes it a lot easier when you can see what others have done. 

[tding]

So many short wires joined together.
I would have used a 5 pin relay (2 power out) instead of the piggy back plug.
I see in the pic with d-lights on the drl's in the indicators are out.
In all as usual a brilliant informative instructional how to,     

[Biggles]

I forgot to mention, the cutting of the slot in the rubber insert is clever.  When I had the Police brackets I just left the insert out, which left a gap between the mirror covers and the side panels.  Your result is much tidier.
I taped the wires to the brackets for a tidy look- black electric tape would look good in your case.

[Brock]

Found the crimping How To.

http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=2340.0

[Biggles]

Here's my switch installation.  The lecky tape wrap-around is Mickey Mouse.  I believe there's large heat shrink tubing that would be more elegant but haven't looked into that.



The switch is weather-proof.  The tape is just to hide the terminals and wiring.

[Biggles]

I didn't mention, but for any newcomer to the Forum who hadn't ever seen it, the flat plate under the horn switch is Abe's son's invention.
It prevents the tank bag actuating the horn on full turning lock.  It's also useful for locating the horn button when you urgently want it.

[Shiney]

THE PICTURES HAVE BEEN UPDATED