Our Kimberley Adventure
Chris, her sister Marlene and I have recently returned from a seven week exploration of the red centre and the Kimberley, including the famous Gibb River Road. This is a beautiful part of this great country. Our rig was a Holder Colorado 4WD twin cab ute with few mods other than a mild lift, and Old Man Emu shocks. We were not towing a trailer. I have some home made storage in the back of the ute, and a Boab 42 litre water tank. We travelled light, slept for seven weeks on air beds in tents, and used the tailgate as out kitchen. In case of poor weather I had a canopy that could be erected over the back of the car, but it wasn't used as the weather was fine for the entire trip.
Route
Our route took us north on the Stuart Highway with side trips to the Lambert Centre of Australia, the Merinie Loop past Henbury to Kings Canyon, Hermansberg, the West Mac Ranges to Alice
Springs. Once we were north of Tennant Creek we were able to explore the hot springs around Mataranka, as well as Katherine Gorge and the beautiful Edith Falls.
We then took the highway to the Kununurra Region, Pernalulu, Halls Creek region, shot down the Tanamai to Wolf Creek (didn't see Mick), Fitzroy Crossing and on to Derby where we restocked for the journey back across the Gibb River Road including the road (and I use the term loosely) to the iconic Mitchell Falls.
See the map for a snapshot of the whole route.
Highlights
Highlights are difficult to pick, but there are some favourites that will stick in my memory.
Floating down the hot Bitter Springs out of Mataranka, and staying at the nearby camp site called Little Roper Stock Camp.
Walking through Tunnel Creek which flows for around 750m through a cave right through the base of the Napier Range.
Bell Gorge was one of the most beautiful gorges we visited, as was Glen Helen in the West Mac Ranges. After several visits, Glen Helen is very special for me for a number of reasons.
Having an old aboriginal man who was sitting on his own, wave me over for a chat at Tunnel Creek. I was suspicious of his motives, but while I sat with him, he asked about our holiday and where we were from. When I asked if this was his father's and his ancestors land, and he replied, “Yes, and it's your land too..” and with a sweep of his arm said “It belong to all of us.” I was moved almost to tears by his grace and simple hospitality.
Surviving the 180km spirit and car smashing corrugations out to Mitchell Falls, knowing that we would be driving back over it again on the way out. The reward was standing at the very top of the iconic Mitchell Falls with the water cascading over the top right at my feet.
Watching the sunset from the banks of the Pentecost River, with the Cockburn Range lit up by the setting sun.
Wrap Up
I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The ute performed well, with the most expensive fuel being $2.05 per litre at a couple of locations on the Gibb River Road. We had no flat tyres, but were carrying two spares, puncture repair, inner tubes, and tyre change equipment just in case. The only casualties were my rear number plate light, most likely broken by a rock, and the rear window latches on my poorly designed Flexiglass Canopy which broke even before we got to Alice Springs. However, with some bungee cord, filament tape and some cunning, we managed to keep the window well secured. I'm pretty happy with the car's performance, and it's booked in for a well deserved service and checkup.
