Mornin' BB et al...
Many years ago a Chap form the US posted a thread on the STOC site on a modification he did along these lines, where he drilled a series of 25mm holes around the outside wall of the air box...then proceeded to re-jet it so that it ran properly...I can't recall the full outcome....but it did increase power, but from memory I think the claims made were a bit subjective...no dyno stats to back it up.
You can replicate this mod by simply removing the top lid from the air box and running the engine...it'll 'bog' down (starve for fuel), as soon as you open throttle...this is because the rubber torque tubes (mid range), require patency of air box in it's present setting to work.
However, John B (JZR 'pilot'), may be able to help you...I believe John just drilled out the main jets using a series of number drills until he got it right...he had to do this as he had to remove the OEM air box
and the rubber torque tubes within...and substitute his cleverly patterned plastic cake holder...and having been in this 3-wheeler, it certainly gets up a boggies
, considering it's got an additional 90kg penalty before you shoe-horn yourself into it
.
So whatever you have in mind with altering the air / fuel mix you
will need to alter the airflow
to within the air-box (eg holes), before undertaking any alterations within the carburetors themselves as the replacement air filter alone isn't enough to warrant any carburetor modifications.
I guess if different 'internals' are being offered for 1100 carburetors then this modifications can work...but I think a visit to your friendly motorcycle shop who has a dyno to begin with would be in order...interested to hear how you get on
Ciao, the can :)
