Installation of Electrical Leads

[Whizz]

Does anyone have any idea which is better from an interference point of view, installing power leads inside or outside the frame? I am running a couple of +12V leads from the battery (via fuses) up to the front to power stuff on my newly built (by Tipsy) dash shelf (Thanks Tipsy!!!). I was about to go underneath the false tank, when I remembered that I had read somewhere that I should go either inside or outside the main frame to minimise the chances of electrical noise from the ignition...but I can't remember which! (Old-timers disease setting I think).

Anyone got any ideas?

Ta

[Brock]

What are you intending to power, if its not comms equipment it shouldn't matter. You could use shielded wire, Coax antenna wire works well to bring the power forward.

[royst1100]

how does that work and how do you connect

[Whizz]

I get it, center conductor = live, braid = neutral(return), good idea.

I'm powering a GPS and a GME UHF Tx/Rx

[Brock]

Or you can run two lengths, one for + and 1 for -. the shields are joined at one end only and connected to the frame or batt -ve.  A 2 core shielded cable is good too.

[Tipsy]

Whizz
you have only just semi retired and you have forgotten already..... sad ,,,,, f1,11 fuel sensor/uhf

sad very sad 

back to work I say your immaculate intelligence is beginning to diminish to quickly

Tipsy 

[DaleMcLean]

Only thing to look out for is the ignition coils, straight in front of your knees OUTSIDE the frame  duck up under the frame cross member/ hinge at the back of the "tank" then forward pop out forward of the coils.

[horizontal]

As Dale said I run mine between the frame and air box. if you want to charge ipod or other radio type its best to get a shielded music or radio cable.
                                                                 Cheers Greg

[DaleMcLean]

As Horizontal says, depends what system you have and who made the cables to connect the radio  , you may need ISOLATED input leads to avoid an earth loop (lovely audible tacho  )

[Skip]

A bit 'off track' but Dales' "audio tacho" comment caught my interest. Dale, my sons cruiser ute has a very annoying "audio tacho" problem. What actually causes that?

[Brock]

Skip,

What sort of noise is it, a whine that changes with revs (alternator noise) or the pop pop of ignition.

[Skip]

Hey Brock. A whine that rises and falls with the revs. If the audio is switched on, it comes through regardless of the volume you may have the audio on. I assumed that's what Dale meant by "audio tacho".

[saaz]

Thats what it is. I had a reasonable amount of that noise for a while, but it mostly went away when I went for the Zumo with isolated audio leads. It can also be moderated by changing the earth lead closer to the battery.  I have an earth loop isolatot that I was going to fit, but have not bothered to now.

[Brock]

That sounds like an alternator whine. Where have you taken the power feed from. It can usually be fixed fairly easily, but its easier for me to do it that tell you how. I will have a look and a think and see If I can put together an easy to follow fix and the parts required.

You could start by fitting an alternator suppressor to the rear of the alternator. It should be available at repco, and looks like a small can with a lead coming out. The can has a lug that uses a screw on the rear of the alternator, and the lead goes to the +ve out from the alternator

[alans1100]

One other thing to consider is spark plugs leads.

Cars have suppression leads to cut out radio interference and not sure if the leads on bikes have these as usually no radios etc on bikes. Suppressor used to be also on coil. Before car radios became standard in cars you had to get all this stuff if you fitted a radio.

[Skip]

No spark plug leads on the sons ute. Diesel. He has fitted a suppressor without any change. I'll check how he fitted it next time he's over. Powered from the ignition and earthed to dash close to head unit. He does however have a separate power amp. Can this introduce an additional problem. It was all fitted to the vehicle when he bought it.

[DaleMcLean]

"earthed to dash close to head unit. He does however have a separate power amp"

Now theres your problem.

Run the earth from the head unit NOT to the dash, but to the same point as the amp, thus removeing the "earth loop"

A miniscule difference in voltage between the 2 earths will be amplified as "sound input" an viola "audible tacho"

[Skip]

"earthed to dash close to head unit. He does however have a separate power amp"

Now theres your problem.

Run the earth from the head unit NOT to the dash, but to the same point as the amp, thus removeing the "earth loop"


A miniscule difference in voltage between the 2 earths will be amplified as "sound input" an viola "audible tacho"

Thanks Dale. I'll let him know.
Cheers.
Skip.