Blown headlight

[Kevan]

I see there's a lot of talk about replacing incandecents with led's etc, so I guess there's MUCH experience out there..
Is it me, or is it almost impossible change the darn headlight globes ??  I found that by only 95% dissassembly of the entire bike, I can infact reach the rear connector to the headlights, and with only 15 minutes of pulling, twisting and just plain    I can get the dead globe out, but it takes me about a week to get the new globe in the bloody hole, retaining clip fitted, and cable clip re-attached.

I need three hands! as I can't see / do anythink without a mirror (which gets in the way and keeps falling down). I guess you're all thinking "What a kluts" - so please - suggestions would be good as I've got to replace another globe and I don't want to ruin my Christmas !!
 :A

[Brock]

Havent needed to replace a bulb yet, But I have had the connector off one of them and it was pretty easy. Access looks pretty easy with the windscreen plates off.

[Kevan]

Yea Brock, "looks" is the word - You can see it all, but just can't get your fingers in there. The manual says you actually have to remove the fairing and Headlight assembly..    Too hard..

[Brock]

Bring it around and we can have a play

[WendyL]

It's not that hard, I managed it, and I'm a girl 

[alans1100]

Have a look here.

http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=3022.new#new

[Aj1300]

It's not that hard, I managed it, and I'm a girl 

You girls have little dainty hands, ideal for the job

[WendyL]

It's not that hard, I managed it, and I'm a girl 

You girls have little dainty hands, ideal for the job

This is where it becomes clear you have not met me.  Dainty is not a word that springs to mind...........

 

[Bikebear]

If you have an ABS version you will need to access the lights from beneath. The ABS version has a module of some sort under the top panel above the lights which stops access. First thing is to pull the rubber cover off then feel for the clip this will swing to one side when you squeeze the wing. The bulb will come out fairly easily. The replacement bulb needs to be the correct pin arrangement, they are different to the standard H4. You can put H4 bulbs in by clipping a couple of tabs off and using adapter rings, some members have used the clipped bulbs without the adapters and say they work fine.

I'm sure if you search the forum there will be more info available. The first bulb I did took a while, the second was easy.

[Kevan]

Thank you Bikebear. I knew if I waited long enough I'd get a sensible answer form someone 
Yes it's an ABS model, and yes there is a module in the way. Due to the excessive cost of the "genuine" Honda part, I stuck a standard H4 in there last time, and maybe that's where I was having trouble as it simply would not stay aligned in the hole long enough for me to get the clip over it..
Perhaps I'll get a "proper one" this time and see how I go..


cheers..

As to Lynda - cop this     lol

[Shiney]

Hi Kevan

I helped install the bolbs in Harieg's ST1100 and it is the ABS model, this is how we did it

I met up with Harieg on Saturday to change the light bulbs on his 1100 and my 1300

I had previously changed the light bulbs on my old 1100 by turning the steering and reaching down past the dash next to the handlebars to access them, so I thought it would be easy, but as Harieg’s 1100 is an ABS model there are cables in the way on the right hand side

So we decided the easiest way would be to access the area from underneath

Under the lights on the 1100 there was a plastic plate that was removed (held in with 2 screws) and after that it was relatively easy to reach the area.

Pulled the plug off the back of the bulb, then pulled the rubber boot off , then pushed in on the tension wire and moved it to the side releasing the pressure from the bulb.
At that point the bulb slides out. (Repeat for the other side)

For the 1300 it was essentially the same procedure except there wasn’t a plate under the lights to remove. (One of the plugs on my bike was a bit stuck and was a bitch to get out )

Next got out the new bulbs and snipped off the bottom two tabs, slipped the adapter ring on and squashed the base of the bulb and the ring together with pliers.

At this time the plate was found to be a bit loose so… (At the bottom of the bulb there is a small cut out with 2 little tabs facing up) with the pliers, the tabs on the base of the bulb were bent onto the ring thereby holding it in place.

From here it was just putting it all back together
•   Slipped the bulbs into the light enclosure (feeling around the edge to make sure the tabs are sitting in the matching groves)
•   Pushed the tension wire over the bulb (push on the top of it and slide it to the side to lock it in place)
  Now for the rubber boot,
•   Placed a finger through the hole and held it up to the back of the bulb, felt the 3 prongs from the rear of the bulb and slid the boot on making sure the prongs came through the hole. Pushed around the edge of the boot to get it to sit in place.
•   Plugged the power plug on the bulb and replaced any bodywork that was removed.

Then coffee and a smoke, all done
And there we go that was the light change experience at Harieg’s shop

Cheers
Shiney

There is more info in the folowing link
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=1419.msg18105#msg18105

I hope you find this of some help

Cheers
Shiney

[Kevan]

ALL DONE..
 
I just managed to do mine with a standard H4 globe, lower lugs bent out. The windscreen and top comes off just so you can see what's going on. The ABS/TC module stops you actually putting your hands down from the top. All access is from the underside once the small black plate is removed from beneath the headlight. But I still needed a mirror to see where the retaining spring went, 'cause you're kinda working upside-down and back-to-front..

I'm off Goff ->