Brake bleeding ST1100 ABS

[Kevan]

Pulled out the brake pads to check for wear'n'stuff (as there was a bit of squealing going on - so I figured "dust" ).
Topped up the fluid and bled the brakes BUT the front is still spongie. Goes away with a pump or two, but there's obviously air still in there.
Question: On the rear caliper, there are two bleed nipples (ST1100 ABS system / Traction control). Is one for the brake pedal and the other for the from the from brake leaver ?  The Haynes manual doesn't mention two bleed points on the rear, so I'm wondering if this is something to do with the 60/40 braking ??

[alans1100]

I have yet to do anything to my brakes other than replace the pads.

To answer your question, there are two bleeding points on each caliper. One for foot brake and one for hand brake.

This will show you how the CBS system is connected.



This for the how to do it.....covers standard and A models.......no need to worry about the 95 and earlier ABS as we didn't get that in Australia.

http://koczarski.com/mmartin/Bleed.htm

[Kevan]

Love your work Al.  Thanks for the input, I'll check it out over the weekend.
Many thanks..
Kev..

[alans1100]

Love your work Al.  Thanks for the input, I'll check it out over the weekend.
Many thanks..
Kev..

Not my work as far as the drawing goes.........had it sent to me from a person in the UK.

Thanks.

[Gavo]

its the helping out and sharing of relavent info

Sharing is caring they say

[alans1100]

its the helping out and sharing of relavent info

Sharing is caring they say

I sort of guessed that a little later........but I'm not quite with it being under pain killing drugs after my little hernia op this morning.

In reality I should be in bed resting..........rather than being on here. Though in the broad sense I'm still relaxing while sitting.

Better not say to much off track or the man with the big stick might extend his reach from the land of the lady boys........

[Brock]

I will cut you a little slack Allan, seeing as you have been gutted and all.

[Rodd]

The CX500's were a pain to bleed the brakes. What we would do (after trying to bleed the normal way as best as possible) was to pump the brake lever, hold it in and tie it in that position overnight. It has worked for a lot of people.

[alans1100]

The CX500's were a pain to bleed the brakes. What we would do (after trying to bleed the normal way as best as possible) was to pump the brake lever, hold it in and tie it in that position overnight. It has worked for a lot of people.

CX is easy to bleed.........took me about 10 minutes with the help of Heather.

Tube on end of the bleeder into jar containing fluid. I opened bleeder furthest from master, got Heather to  squeeze brake lever in and hold (pushes fluid out).  I do bleeder up again, Heather releases lever. Repeat process until you can see new fluid and checking reservoir at same time. Repeat for other caliper.

Exactly the same process used in older cars.

[Rodd]

Yes, have done it that way plenty of times on cars and bikes. That's a good way of replacing the brake fluid, but often on CX's people have had a problem getting the last bit out if they have replaced a brake hose or simply removed and replaced the caliper. The method I spoke of above is a good and simple way of getting the last bit out if you find that you have spongy brakes.

[alans1100]

Rather that start a new topic about the same thing I'll add to this one.

In the process of my recent tyre change my brake pads require replacement which I'll be doing sometime around the end of the month and a fluid change as well.

In the eight years I've had my 1100 I've never done a fluid change myself having seen the ABS/CBS system and it's plumbing a little to complicated.

The Honda manual mentions how to bleed the brakes but another site has a different way by simply using gravity.

http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/guides/replacing_the_brake-clutch_fluid.htm

To replace the brake & clutch fluid: get a 3 foot length of .187 ID clear hose from the hardware store. Put this over the nipples before loosening them. (10mm for clutch and rear caliper, 5/56" for front calipers) Remove the covers to the hydraulic reservoirs and suck out the old fluid with a syringe. Fill with new fluid and put the cover on loosely. Put the clear tubing over the nipple and loosen the bleeder bolt. Put the end of the tubing in an empty oil bottle. The fluid will run out by gravity, no need to pump the brakes or use one of those vacuum things. Just keep an eye on the fluid level! You can see through the clear tubing when the old dark stuff is replaced by new. Just tighten the bleeder bolt when clear fluid runs through the line. It took 10 minutes to do the clutch and three calipers.

Has anyone done it this way before as it seems quite easy?

[alans1100]

Today I successfully replaced the brake fluid on my ABS/CBS 1100.

Not sure what the previous fluid was but it came out browny colour and all up I used about 450cc of Shell DOT 4 so now it's blue.
Was way easier than I expected.

The two front bleeders (hand brake) could easily be gravity bled but I sill used a brake bleeding kit.

Then there's four bleeders for the foot brake, one on each front calliper and two on the rear. One for the rear brake and one for the secondary master cylinder.

[Totgas]

Alan are you able to shed any light on the marked ABS Controller "Deluxe type only" comment?
Ta,
A.

[alans1100]

Alan are you able to shed any light on the marked ABS Controller "Deluxe type only" comment?
Ta,
A.

It might just be a reference comparing 1100A to an 1100 where the 1100A might be seen as deluxe a model.

There's a similar drawing in my manual but the Deluxe term isn't shown