Author Topic: Collie to Apollo Bay - Great Ocean Road and return  (Read 7097 times)

Offline Silky

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Collie to Apollo Bay - Great Ocean Road and return
« on: October 13, 2013, 10:05:22 PM »
Got back yesterday after leaving two weeks ago on the Sunday arvo 29th of Sept.

7676 k in two weeks ... just a little ride





 Left home in the drizzly rain at about 1.15 on the Sunday , the weather cleared up a touch at the bottom of the hill but pissed down abourt Pinjara (half way to Perth) despite having waterproofed the leathers they started to leak at the crutch region and soon I could feel water running down my inner thigh ... the jacket zip also leaked .

 I'd gotten a drowning on my way up from Collie the day before so left Dave's with the wet weather gear on to avoid a repeat performance .
 We must have hit every red light on that Monday morning as we headed off looking for Miss Adventure and her sister Suzie Wong at 6.30 am .




 This water tower is at Merriden about 300k from Perth on day one , it did rain a little on the way out of the city .... we kept moving so as to get on the otherside of it .

 The day turned into a beauty and we made Norseman with daylight to spare at 4.30 ... approximately 720k

 That night in Norseman it got down to zero and I woke to find ice on my seat .... found out later they had an earthquake in Norseman at about 5.30 on that morning also .... spooky



When I left home I had a little black book "Ye Olde Log Book" which I wrote in my fuel purchase details .... how many litres @ so much $$$ per litre plus weather , time , location , odometer reading .

 Somewhere just before Warrnambool on my last day before reaching Cape Otway I was feeling a bit fatigued and stopped for a break , I decided to swap helmets and wear my open face in an endeavour to stay awake .... this is where I lost my log book and just before night fall I became lost myself on a winding gravel road through a forrest but I'm getting a bit ahead of myself here so where were we ... ah yes Norseman .

 Norseman is the starting point really for heading out across the Nullarbor and it was still quite fresh at 7.30 when we left civilization to hit the open plains , we stopped on average every 100k so all the semi's , caravans and campervans we passed multiple times . I was alerted to something going on by the presence of a parked car and a lady taking photos so had slowed down when mum and dad emu and 10 chicks ran across the road . Leaving Norseman you go throught the Frazer ranges which has some hills and bends then you get out to Balladonia and the 90 kilometer straight , I rode 10k standing up pretending I was on a Segway , Dave did 6k no hands ... we were having fun . The wind was at our backs and we had perfect weather with no crosswinds to test our nerves and after miles of the same boring scenery we reached Madura Pass which is an amazing site to behold .

 The plan was to try and find a place to camp about 50k short of the Nullarbor Roadhouse (near the cliffs) but we couldn't find a suitable place and the sun was setting so we did the last 64k of our 920k day with our lights on and got a backpacker room so as not to have to bother with putting up our tents . The room had two single beds and a light ... $65 ... LUXURY . Daves trangia stove made us coffee and boiled some eggs .



 One pannier on my bike was the wardrobe and the other was the kitchen , for two weeks many a peanut butter sandwich or whatever was produced to make life interesting and save money on middle of nowhere roadhouse prices .

Our neighbor was a Canadian guy called John who was 67 and he'd ridden 180k that day on his push bike , the next morning before we departed I gave him a hand to repair his broken rear carrier with a stick splint , cable ties and duct tape . That was after we went through the garbage to find the broken bit he'd chucked out by mistake the night before . I donated a screw from my tin of spares under my seat and it did the job of securing the broken off lower portion of his rack ... he was a happy man and it was a pleasure to meet such an inspirational old campaigner .


We set off and again were greeted by the site of the ocean at Ceduna half way to our destination of Port Augusta . After miles of boring same sameness the site of the blue ocean is a welcoming view of this great big country of ours but the winds of change did in fact change and we were now getting savage crosswinds and dirty air from the semi's that just about lifted you off the bike with a smash in the head depending on location some worse than others .

 I noticed a sign for camping , caravans or cabins at a groovy sounding place called Nuttbush Retreat about 40k out of Port August and when we pulled in it turned out to be an actual sheep station which had diversified and was open now for tourists , even had a nice grassed area to pitch the tents .




The camp kitchen was the original old cook house with a bell outside and a homely feel about it . I spent some time in the kitchen just taking in the cool vibe of the place (and preparing tucker) I also used their laundry to do some other domestic chores





 On day 4 when we left our planned destination of Port Augusta we were going to have a lazy day and only do about 400k or get to the otherside of Adelaide somewhere at least leaving us with only about 700k on the Friday .
 Things however don't always go to plan ... Dave's Harley had been making strange struggling noises when starting and after we'd had at stop off at Snowtown to check out the bank " the infamous bodies in the barrels bank " the Harley refused to start . I pushed it and f**k all happened so then I tow started it with my mighty Honda . On the the third attempt we were mobile again . The first attempt[ nearly pulled Dave's arm off so we wrapped the rope around the bars twice and the second attempt pulled his windscreen half off so we left it on the side of the road and tried again ... this worked but was hell dangerous with the short bit of rope we were using and Dave dropped the clutch before letting go of the rope and how we didn't end up in a heap in the middle of the road I'll never know .
 The Harley is only just 12 months old but he's done 34,000k on it and he did ride it a long way three days in a row , no wonder it broke down  :fp
 We headed towards Adelaide but I needed fuel and gave Dave strict instructions not to turn it off while I filled up ... he somehow stalled it and I refused to tow start it again for fear of my old and weary body or burning out my Honda's clutch ... we had words .
 I pushed it again to no avail and even recruited a not too keen bearded chap who was having a beer out the front of the Lower Light pub .... we couldn't start it and I did some damage to my knee that saw me limping about for the next week , Harley Heaps of Shit .
 The publican made an amazing offer of car and trailer to take us to Adelaide when Dave's brain remembered he had "Harley Assist " so a recovery truck was dispatched a couple more phone calls and 3 hours later we were at Harley Heaven and had to get in line to have the bike looked at , they were great and it was still covered by warranty . Turned out to be the starter clutch but it was 4.30 in the arvo and we parted company as I headed off for Murray Bridge and Dave got a room at a backpacker's joint .
 While waiting for the Harley to be fixed I'd gone and found the Peter Stevens Motorcycle shop and tee'd up a rear tire to be fitted on the Tuesday morn of the following week so things kind of worked out for the best and we had only failed to proceed 45k from Adelaide and not in a more remote place if that was any consolation.

To be continued .......



« Last Edit: February 14, 2014, 02:50:00 AM by Silky »
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Offline Marcus

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2013, 09:53:22 AM »
 

Offline saaz

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2013, 10:21:00 AM »
Great read. Really waiting on the teaser about near Warnambool..
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2013, 01:57:33 PM »



You didn't mention running into Billy Connolly!

Great read.  Lots of great road tales there.  Write on...
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Offline Sean

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2013, 02:29:32 PM »
Great story Silky, Can't wait for the next installment. Can't see me getting down that so it's great to read everybody else's journeys.      :thumbsup
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Offline ST2UP

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2013, 02:57:45 PM »
Great reading  :thumbs   looking forward to thr rest of the journey


 :beer
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2013, 03:22:16 PM »
A great ride report and looking forward to the next bit.   :hatwave
My mate's Harley needed a full engine rebuild (top and bottom) after just 45,000km
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Offline Sicman

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2013, 03:45:54 PM »
Good stuff Silky  :clap  :popcorn :popcorn
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2013, 04:22:54 PM »
A great ride report and looking forward to the next bit.   :hatwave
My mate's Harley needed a full engine rebuild (top and bottom) after just 45,000km

It sounds like if one was cursed with a HD then having "Harley Assist" would be indispensible.
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Offline Silky

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2013, 05:29:21 PM »
This story is also posted on the Dungbeetle Biker site I frequent and the object of this ride was to attend a Dungbeetle Biker gathering at Cape Otway plus meet up with some non Dungies .... Doug was my best man 34 years ago and was coming down or actually they came on the ferry across the bay from Melbourne .
Wooliehead I worked with in 1977 in Port Headland (he's a Dungbeetle)

Leaving Adelaide by myself in peak hour traffic with only one more days travel to reach my destination I was full of mixed emotions . I'd travelled this same road 30 years ago on my Harley before the tunnel was built but didn't remember much being so long ago , my mind was thinking about the red light I'd gone through whilst following the traffic flow and wondering if I'd had my picture taken .
 Before long I was in Murray Bridge and got the tent up and fixed myself some tucker , Tomorrow was the big day and all was good in my universe , three nights of not having to unpack all the gear and repack in the morning ... beauty .
 At breakfast I was joined by a real live dungbeetle so I was careful not to step on it , I was also joined by a ginger and white tom cat who was quite a confident chap and came over for a pat ... hello boy I said and gave him a stroke ... I like cats and he was nice company , I was starting to miss my dogs back home .

 Get moving and went via Keith and Naracoorte to Mt Gambier then across the border into Mexico next major towns were Portland , Port Fairy and Warrnambool where I stopped at a supermarket to get supplies .
 I'm not getting any younger and have gotten quite lazy in fact of late so all this fun I was having was wearing me out some , so much so that I had trouble staying awake .... I stopped about 30k out of Warrnambool and lay down in the shade for a power nap and then decided to swap helmets for some fresh air and get this bucket off my head , I'd set off again with a whole new view of the world ... the wide screen view .

I would discover later that my log book was missing and I suspected that this was the place we parted company .... was it there 3 days later ? read on and weep  :rofl

 I'd had the map out so many times whilst traversing these unknown highways and byways but wasn't positive about whether to come into Apollo bay via Colac or around the Great Ocean Road so when I turned off just outside Warrnambool I though I might just slip up the middle to Cobden as it was in the general direction and would avoid any bad weather from being right on the coast , the sky was dark and rain was not totally out of the question .
 Asking directions at Cobden I was told to go over to Simpson and then take the road to Lavers Hill which I found out turned to gravel about 20k in then weaving through rain forrest for the next 30k at about 30kph I was too tired to care and pressed on till I came back to a real road and got headed towards Bimbi Park ... with my lights on , nightfall had beaten me home .

 The only good part of the jungle track was I'd seen a deer run across the road in front of me .... never seen one of those in the wild before  :hatwave

When I did arrive after missing the turn off and coming back for a second go , I was directed to the main gathering and the first person I met was Ray who I had asked if he was Bluesman .
 Lots of new faces and some long time no see faces as well with Doug and Wooliehead .
 Apart from the oversize duffle bag I had a bag of groceries with the stretchy net on top when I went up that bumpy bush track earlier and was feared I'd loose my dozen eggs , loaf of bread , steak etc.
 Woolie showed me the bunkhouse that I would call home for three nights and then we went to the kitchen to find Bluesman who was doing some cooking , I had a coffee and cooked up some chilli con carne , then I had one of Wolliehead's rum and cokes , my brain had strong thoughts about sleeping so I did .


 Sat morn Dave arrived about 10 am with his bike all sorted and had ridden into the night on the Friday to reach Apollo Bay then got a room in another backpacker hostel .
 Wooliehead , Dave , Doug and the boys from Melb were going for a ride to Lavers Hill so I went into town with the Blues , VX and Simone , Jstava , Shitty and Ray , some of us had brecky most of us had coffee ... I had a big chunk of rocky road cake for breakfast with my coffee .
 Then we went to the bottle shop and got supplies , I went to a newsagents and asked for a 25 game slik pic for Sat night and got enlightened to their Tatts Lotto 24 game Mega Quickpick

 On the way back to Bimbi Park I noticed a few familiar bikes at the local drinking hole in the main street and pulled up to see what they were up to , we went to check out the light house on our way back but weren't going to pay $18 to see it and $5 to climb it .... sorry just not that into light houses I guess .
 I discovered the cup that had the rum and coke in it from the previous night had attracked a swarm of ants all over the top bunk and my bag of stuff , helmets , clothes , food . Once the cup was out the door and I'd sprayed some draino on the little mongrels they were under control ... I slept in one of the spare bunks . By morning no sign of the invading army . Thanks for your assistance Jstava

 Sun morning Doug and the lads were going home back up the Great Ocean Road and Dave and I went along for a little way , I went as far as Lorne and Dave went up to Angelsea and back , we stopped at Lorne and watched the surf club guys row out into the waves and ride them back in .
 Great scenery with the occasional waterfall plus the mighty ocean beating into the shore .



 Sunday night Doggie built a great raging fire despite the intermittent rain earlier .
 Dave , Wooliehead and myself chucked in snaggers , chops , steak and had a mixed grill with onion and eggs (all the surplus tucker) plus beers around the barbie , while the koala's growled above in the trees .... gotta love it .

 Tomorrow back home .
« Last Edit: October 17, 2013, 05:44:37 PM by Silky »
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Offline tj189

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2013, 08:53:48 PM »
great read there Silky, thanks for sharing your adventure  :beer
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Offline Silky

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2013, 09:09:35 PM »
Thanks all for the compliments and encouragement .... for you I write  :thumbs

 
Somethings dawned on me whilst riding so far and with so much time to think about stuff you were confronted with ... like the signs warning of every type of animal , look out for kangaroos , wombats , echidna , camels , emus , turtles , horses (we saw a wild horse between Norseman and Salmon Gums) I saw a deer but no sign warned me ... I felt violated .

 On the Nullarbor Plain give way to airplanes on emergency runways for the flying doctor .

 Road kill ... I saw dead wombats , dead chudich , the common roo of course and the poor old wallaby , dead rabbits , blue tongue lizards .

 I ran over and killed a snake .... unavoidable ... wrong place wrong time plus no signs warning of snakes or rabbits ... must have been ok  :rofl

 We saw some ripper eagles and the emu family in the Frazer Ranges , lots of crows in South Australia and of course other people on bikes some of whom we exchanged destinations with and a quick yarn .

 There was the guy on the 84 Softail customized painted yellow with red pinstripe flames and extended forks , his early model panniers were mounted a bit crooked looking (to me anyway) but the flames compensated for it (not really  :crackup ) he was loaded up and headed to Victoria as well but was stopping at Southern Cross to see a friend .

 That was our only bike encounter on the way over , on the way back we had a crossing of paths with a couple from Collie going over to Bathurst and rode with a guy on a Harley for a while but he was going a bit quicker than we wanted to travel so he disapeard into the distance .

 A guy on an 81 Yamaha XS1100 with only 58,000 on the clock on his way to Queensland .

 Two oldish guys passed while we were having one of our 100k rest stops and we followed them into a servo were there was a couple of sports bikes parked , one had a massive camper trailer attached .




 These two ex West Australians fom Canberra one riding a Harley and one a BMW , he was an ex cop and said he used to ride the ST 1100 like mine when he was on duty in Perth , his Beema had done 150,000k and I reckon the twins are probably better than the four cylinder ones ... put that on my bucket list .

 The couple we met in Norseman , Walter and Heidi from Switzerland who had paid $18,000 return airfare for their bikes and themselves for a 2 month adventure in Australia . they rode fairly new BMW GS1200's with aluminium panniers and topbox bla bla bla all the gear .... nice people , hope they take home some good memories .
« Last Edit: October 14, 2013, 09:24:20 PM by Silky »
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2013, 06:45:29 AM »
Chatting with other travellers and swapping stories, is for me, one of the great pleasures of long distance touring.  Everyone has a story to tell.
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Offline Marcus

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #13 on: October 15, 2013, 07:08:57 AM »
Great write up, Great ride, Great adventure. Loved reading it
 

Offline Silky

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #14 on: October 15, 2013, 11:28:33 AM »
We were packed and said our farewells so it was time to hit the road and head home , we stayed at Murray Bridge in the same caravan park so as to be close enough to Adelaide were I was having a rear tire fitted the following day .
 Just out of Warrnambool I recognized a school bus shelter and did a u turn and there on the ground 3 days later was my little black book , the trip over had been fairly easy going and I had excepted that I had lost the log book saying that if that was the worst thing that could happen it was a minor event ... still I was wrapped to retrieve it from the dirt were it lay a little curled up from the rain .

 The next day we got going early and what with daylight saving and differing time zones in each state I was only really sure of the actual day and a bit hazy about the time , we needed fuel and pulled off the freeway at a place called Mt Barker we both got fuel and moved our bikes off the drive so a lady in a convertible could get in , when she left she pulled up next to us and asked if we would like an iced coffee each and held up a bag saying compliments of South Australia , we thanked her took the iced coffees and were slightly chuffed then along comes another woman about our age who had gotten fuel and pulled off the drive then gone back past us and stopped to say something like .... huba huba huba , when she came back she stopped and said something about how they breed em good looking in Western Australia . Dave and I are both 58 and to be getting random compliments and iced coffees was a real blast .... today was starting out just fine .

 My Honda was stripped of it's panniers and the XL Duffel bag then we went to the local markets to kill some time while the tire was fitted at Peter Stevens Motorcycles in Franklin street ... Thanks again Phil the rubber man .

 We turned off at Port Wakefield and headed to Wallaroo with the intention of taking the ferry across the bay to Cowell but it was about 4.00 and the ferries only ran once a day at 9.30am plus the $85 fare was a bit more than I was expecting so we carried on and spent the night at Port Pirie .



 Wednesday it got to about 36 degrees and gusty side winds from both sides and headwinds till we reached Ceduna where we went down to the shoreline for a break , when we went through Nundroo about 10k out of town was a sign saying last fuel for 140k and I remembered the Yalata Roadhouse is shutdown ... quick calculating in my head to save doubling back , yeah I'll be right and I was but only just .
 When the fuel light comes on you can do 90k at 100 .... so they say ... I lay on the tank and slowed down , reaching the Nullabor Roadhouse with half a litre of fuel ... I got 27.5 litres @ $54.40 thank you very much .




 For some reason I wanted to rough camp on the Nullabor and we missed our chance on the way over so we rode into the night about 70k then found a truck bay to camp , I was so buggered I rolled up in a tarp and mumbled and cursed till I fell asleep only to be awoken by rain about 2.00 in the morning so with my headlight on I put my tent up and got every thing in it to stop it blowing away .... banging in my pegs was near on impossible in the limestone rock I was on and I lay awake hoping the wind didn't carry the fly sheet away leaving me to drown in the rain . As it was the stars came out again and very little rain fell , everything was covered in limestone dust and I was not a happy camper

 We met some others at Caiguna and the weather was fantastic with little to no wind . Norseman again at the same caravan park and we got a room in Lake Grace after an early lunch in Esperance .
 Esperance is such a beautiful place with the islands visible from the shore but the wind was shocking for the first 120k till we got inland .
 This was our last night and we had a meal at the Lake Grace Hotel then watched some telly before snoozing .

 Tomorrow I would be home and it would all be over .

 This was an execise in frugality for me and I am the master of low budjet fun .... The 15 year old bike cost me $3750 the rear rack $100 a new front tire $260 , I left home with $2135 and had $500 left when I returned , so the trip cost me $1635 which included $314 for the rear tire ... not bad for how far we travelled .

 I carried water and food to save money but did buy beers and the occasional pastie , cherry ripe etc.



 There you go that's my story

 It was going to be three of us but one pulled out and I think travelling with just the two of us was a better way to go especially when it was necessary to get a room for the night .


« Last Edit: October 15, 2013, 11:33:54 AM by Silky »
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #15 on: October 15, 2013, 02:33:15 PM »
A great write-up, Silky.  You certainly had a memorable ride for reasonable money.

Quote
moved our bikes off the drive so a lady in a convertible could get in , when she left she pulled up next to us and asked if we would like an iced coffee each and held up a bag saying compliments of South Australia , we thanked her took the iced coffees and were slightly chuffed then along comes another woman about our age who had gotten fuel and pulled off the drive then gone back past us and stopped to say something like .... huba huba huba , when she came back she stopped and said something about how they breed em good looking in Western Australia . Dave and I are both 58 and to be getting random compliments and iced coffees was a real blast .... today was starting out just fine .

You old dog!!  What can I say??
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #16 on: October 17, 2013, 08:52:29 PM »
Awesome ride report mate, thanks for sharing :hatwave
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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2013, 10:47:02 AM »
Great stuff Silky - very entertaining!

I'm sure you'll agree it requires a fair bit of agility to swing yer leg over a fully packed bike!

Looks like you handled all the plan changes in your stride too - well done!

Thanks for sharing this epic adventure.

Now we all want to go ride!

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2013, 09:11:09 PM »
Great ride Silky, obviously the ride to Augusta was in planning how to pack, this time you could see what was behind.
Brian 0418937173
Manager York Motor Museum

In the shed
1999 ST1100A
1971 CB750K2
1980 XV750
1977 GL1000
FR#720
CMRCWA #133
York,WA

So at what age does this "old enough to know better" kick in?
I believe in the "hereafter", every time I go to the shed I have to think "what am I here after"
 

Offline jimwilly

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #19 on: October 20, 2013, 09:55:15 AM »
Great read, and a great ride and experience. Nothing like a bike and a swag and getting away.
The harley break down sounds all to familiar.
 

Offline bloodbikes

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Re: Collie to Apollo Bay - Greta Ocean Road and return
« Reply #20 on: October 20, 2013, 09:40:30 PM »
Fantastic journey and write up Rick, wish I could afford the time to do what you have done, very inspiring. Well done.

 :wht11