Moly-paste

[Yorkie]

When I purchased a new final driven flange, Honda included recommended brands for moly,

Molykote G-n paste by Dow Corning
Rocol Paste by Sumico
Rocol ASP by Rocol
Honda Moly

Molykote can be purchased from my son in law, $50 per 500g tin, if interested email matthew@miningandhydraulics.com.au and mention Ozstoc.

[saaz]

A good remnder that Honda Molypaste is only one of the recommended greases to use.   The greases Yorkie mentioned are examples of the general specification of molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 40% molybdenum disulfide, NLGI #2 or equivalent).  NLGI #2 is relatively easily available if you look on the container, but tends not to be as good as the proper moly stuff.

[Greencan]

I have a small Dr Pat tin of Rocol ( or reminants thereof), from 1970...it has set rock hard as concrete under a film of oil it once was in a paste with...also have a 500gm tub of Molykote, still largely full from around 2001 slowly going the same way.

I ceased using the moly on the final drive because I find they do seperate and do dry out a lot faster and effectively reduce they intended purpose under sustained heating, say like from a slightly missaligned final drive (added friction). And had been using the more tacky Moreys for some time with great effect.

Yes, the Moreys tends to 'spill' a little a leave traces around the rim, but usually if I'd applied it to liberally. Also, I have gotten into the habit of dissassembling all the components within the hub, cleaning an assembling with a PFTE (Teflon), assembly lubricant which doesn't dry out, then re-aligning the final drive each time I replace a tyre.

I think if you intend to do your own maintenance (including wheel removals for tyre replacement), and are prepared to spend a little time dissmantling, cleaning, re-lubricating, assembling and re-aligning; a low moly percentile grease like Moreys will do.

Oh, and the PFTE on the damper components and flange pins SEEMS to be working extremely well to date :-)

Anyway, just a couple of observations from 17 years of home maintenance on my ST's

Cheers the can :-)

[Brock]

Anyway, just a couple of observations from 17 years of home maintenance on my ST's

I think you should come back when you have definite proof, and a bit more hands on experience.

 

[Greencan]

Will Do

[tj189]

 

[bobsee]

Hi all.
try Morey's molybentone non soap grease 2.
have used it splined sharfs, bearings, industral and bikes, sticks like sh-- to ?.
Bob.

[DavidP]

Amazon have 65% moly paste:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Loctite+234227

$43 AUD shipped for 1/4kg (more than I will ever need).

Used this on my splines when I changed my tyres recently.  Small brush on the inside of the lid stops you getting paste everywhere 

[Greencan]

Mornin' All..

Just a little house keeping in relation to my previous post in April 2014 where I stated the use of a PTFE grease specific to rear wheel drive flange land.

OK, the use of this produce in conjunction with a wheel flange land that is without any evidence or, with minimal to moderate evidence of galling isnt a good idea. As I have learnt since rebuilding these flange lands. I am presently now experimenting with a nickle/moly based anti galling paste (Molykote), as I have noted discolouring to minor galling occuring between 4k to 8k distance and over 6/12 to 18/12 time on the T6 6061 collars I have made. Will let you know how that went in another year or so.

The reason I wont use the Honda reccomended very high moly paste, though is does prevent galling, it is also high maintenance, insomuch as dries out too quickly in our hot climate we have here. Thats not to say, not to use it.

Cheers the can :-)

[Greencan]

This is what I mean by galling. I am sure many of you that undertake your own maintenance have seen far worse. So this is what whatever lubricant you use, should prevent.

As I have said, past experience has shown that the high % moly that Honda recommends works. Trouble is I have found it to dry out and loose its ability in preventing what it was meant to do in the first place if, not regularly replaced.

The areas I have circled in red are where the parent metal has been picked up from and the blackened streaks are where it has been redeposited and thus causing the final drive flange to become mismatched. In this case on aT6 hi-tensile alloy which is somewhat stronger than the underlying cast wheel.

If left unchecked the progression of the galling with circumnavigate the wheel flange land at an exponential rate. Got to this then just in time!
 
Obvious isn’t it,  the PTFE lubricant I choose was not up to the task here. But very successful on the drive flange lugs and the alloy / rubber cush blocks.

As mentioned I will revisit the  latest efforts later.

Cheers the can

PS... this collar has now been scotch locked, so it will never come off other than by machining